Axle Tripod bearing pops out!
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Still Pluging away at this. - And now reachign out to preofessional shops across the western half of the united states for assistance.
If the video here, or the images spark some "AH-HA!" from anyone, please respond.
Axle Shaft Play Driver's Side
OEM Axle Lengths - too short
Axles Lengths too short 01
Axles Lengths too short 02
If the video here, or the images spark some "AH-HA!" from anyone, please respond.
Axle Shaft Play Driver's Side
OEM Axle Lengths - too short
Axles Lengths too short 01
Axles Lengths too short 02
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13,577 Posts
I gotta be honest, I think you're barking up the wrong tree with the axles. Assuming you have a big tripod transmission, you could put in mid or late axles and not care. You could not use early axles, but they're for small tripods anyway, so it doesn't matter. You do want the late, long axles (LH:8990731-> 4106159, RH:8990749) as those are technically the only proper axles for an '88+ car. But, the mid/late axles are separated by something like 6mm, barely anything. But, any 1988-1993 axle is what you want.
The a-arms never changed. The outer CV and steering knuckle changed only to accommodate ABS, not dimensionally. My '85 SPG has a '92 transmission, '90 tripods, '90 axles, '90 knuckles, '91 or '92 outer CVs.
Literally just took this photo:
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A pair of axles from a late '87 SPG and a pair of axles from a '91 900T convertible. They are the same lengths, same tripods. Only the outer CV changes for ABS.
The a-arms never changed. The outer CV and steering knuckle changed only to accommodate ABS, not dimensionally. My '85 SPG has a '92 transmission, '90 tripods, '90 axles, '90 knuckles, '91 or '92 outer CVs.
Literally just took this photo:
A pair of axles from a late '87 SPG and a pair of axles from a '91 900T convertible. They are the same lengths, same tripods. Only the outer CV changes for ABS.
@jvanabra I am barking up ALL trees. I need help with this. In my last post, I also shared pictures (and a video) of my drivers side axles. They are the same length as yours - thanks for your time to share yours, btw. And the odd thing, is that I cannot find the issue that is making them "too short". The video that I also posted in my last post shows the discrepancy in axle axial travel. As noted before, If I were to try to drive my car, the tripod would again pop-out. It does not go into the driver cup but merely half-way past the edge. I dont want it to pop out again whilst driving, yet I can find no metric or adjustment or any other thing that points me to a solution. All I am after is a solution in whatever form that takes and I am frustrated that I have not found it yet for something that seems so very mudane in comparison to having just built an engine. Any helpful ideas are very much appreciated!
Thanks for the thoughts AUSSIE. The upper A-arms are original with new bushings and were glass-beaded and painted. The lower control arms are new from scantech, I believe, with new bushings as well. I meaured those guys against my old ones and they appear to be the same length. There was a small amount of damage to the front end 3 years ago, but that was corrected, and with the old engine and trans in, was always drivable. the damage was pretty minor, thank God. I had driven this car just up until August of last year with no driveline or steering issues.
Well, that is an interesting thought. I'm pretty sure that the pawl is still in there from the rebuild of this trans. I had this trans in my previous '87 SPG and it was amazing in that car. Then it just sat for years while I got everything together for this current build in my '89. But, I have to wonder if there is any extra length I can pull it out on the driver cup. I am guessing no, since the amount that the cup sticks out is directly based on the full engagement with the diff splines and shims used for pre-load and all that. Right?
The differential carrier taper roller bearings are separate from the ball bearings that support the tripod axle shafts. Both bearings are inside the 6-bolt axle housing. You might try prying using a large "pickle fork" (used for separating ball joints from steering knuckles) between the backside of the tripod and the axle housing VERY gently (don't use hammer!) and see if you can pop the tripod axle out further, and then see if the driveshaft tripod bearing extends further into the carrier.
I believe that the inner driver depth is controlled by a snap ring that retains the bearing on the the inner driver and in the axle housing. The pickle fork prying it outward would let you know if the bearing has become dislodged from the axle housing.
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You can see the carrier for the diff bearing and (damaged) driver bearing here:
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My belief is that it isn't the axles, isn't the a-arms, isn't the knuckles. Therefore it must be the transmission or its position in the engine bay. I think the drivers are bottomed out in their carrier it doesn't seem there can be a scenario where the drivers are too inboard.
My belief is that it isn't the axles, isn't the a-arms, isn't the knuckles. Therefore it must be the transmission or its position in the engine bay. I think the drivers are bottomed out in their carrier it doesn't seem there can be a scenario where the drivers are too inboard.
Interesting info fellas. I do note that after the tripod popped out I got under there with a crowbar was able to move the driver cup assembly out of the housing with gentle prying, but it only came out about .75 - 1mm maximum. That tells me that when the tripod popped out, it pushed pretty hard on the driver cup, and infact actually pushed the metal out of shape a bit at the frame/body right near where it came out. So, I guess now after prying it is seated back where it needs to be. However still not far enough.
@jvanabra, I keep thinking the same... Not sure how, but it does seem like the whole power unit is shifted toward the passenger side like 3/8 to 5/8 of an inch.... I am tempted to loosen the side mount underside bolts, and the single top bolt on the fluid mount, push the engine toward the driver's side, and then lower it all back down and compare. Not sure how that would actually work, but.... meh, what else is left here?
Check this out:
Axle movement and tripod engagement
@jvanabra, I keep thinking the same... Not sure how, but it does seem like the whole power unit is shifted toward the passenger side like 3/8 to 5/8 of an inch.... I am tempted to loosen the side mount underside bolts, and the single top bolt on the fluid mount, push the engine toward the driver's side, and then lower it all back down and compare. Not sure how that would actually work, but.... meh, what else is left here?
Check this out:
Axle movement and tripod engagement
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I am told there are scenarios on the c900 where this can happen - specifically suspension on full droop, wheel cranked over, and laying on the gas. Apparently there little engagement of the tripod in that scenario and it can be launched out of the driver.
Are you sure what you're seeing isn't just a condition of the suspension being unloaded? From the video, it doesn't appear to be the case, but I figured I should mention it.
Are you sure what you're seeing isn't just a condition of the suspension being unloaded? From the video, it doesn't appear to be the case, but I figured I should mention it.
Im pretty sure it's not a suspension-unloaded issue, but I do appreciate the thought. The passenger side is unloaded with a spacer inbetween the body and upper control arm there too, and the variance from HUB to bottoming out the driver cup is about 3/8 of an inch, so It's in there deep!
I am pretty sure that with the car on the ground, the tripod would come out a bit further actually - on both sides (I have intrax lowering springs).
Do you think trying to reposition the engine on the body/engine mount towers is even worth trying?
I am pretty sure that with the car on the ground, the tripod would come out a bit further actually - on both sides (I have intrax lowering springs).
Do you think trying to reposition the engine on the body/engine mount towers is even worth trying?
I did have the exact issue (scenario) you described Jvan , many years back , I was doing a u turn on a road that was heavily cambered to the centre SO rhs loaded , LHS unloaded , also full throttle off a standing start to clear traffic ,
It trashed the tripod ( or it was the tripod falling apart that allowed it to happen )
It trashed the tripod ( or it was the tripod falling apart that allowed it to happen )
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If the shift shaft lines up properly, your engine is probably in the right place.
-And it does. That was one of the first things I checked. And no binding in working the shifter either.
At this point I am considering putting in a shim inbetween the wheel bearing and the cv joint housing to see if that gets me the extra length I am after.
At this point I am considering putting in a shim inbetween the wheel bearing and the cv joint housing to see if that gets me the extra length I am after.
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