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Discussion Starter #1
Do oil stop leak products actually work, and are they safe in turbocharged engines?

My car has developed a small leak at the oil level sensor, and was quoted $1000 to repair :eek:. I can't afford that right now and was looking into other options such as stop leak products.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.
 

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I used that kind of product on a 11 year old Ford minivan with 160,000 miles once. It worked, but that may have been because I had switched to synthetic oil and the stuff swelled the old gaskets.

Would I use it on a SAAB Turbo? No. Just based on what I have read over the years.

Get another quote, IMO. Is it a head gasket or just a valve cover gasket or something else? Try a few other shops. At $75 to $100 per hour that's a 10-15 hour job.
If you have an idea about the work needed download WIS and see th esteps to fix it and see if it is that many hours of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response.

It's actually leaking from the oil level sensor itself ($100 part), and he suggested replacing the timing cover while he's in there.

It's quite a small leak, a couple of drops while sitting overnight.
 

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I used that kind of product on a 11 year old Ford minivan with 160,000 miles once. It worked, but that may have been because I had switched to synthetic oil and the stuff swelled the old gaskets.
That would be the first time I've ever heard of synthetic oil stopping a leak.
People usually complain about leaks starting after using synthetic.
 

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Thanks for the response.

It's actually leaking from the oil level sensor itself ($100 part), and he suggested replacing the timing cover while he's in there.

I seriously doubt that stop leak really stops leaks in general. For the case of the sensor connector, that's just an unpressurized leak around a bad O-ring, which is even less likely to work.


According to WIS, replacing the sensor means dropping the oil pan, which is a straightforward job and nowhere close to the timing cover. It's not in any way part of the procedure for pulling the timing cover. So no, he will not "be in there".....and why do you need the timing cover replaced anyway?
 

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So no, he will not "be in there".....and why do you need the timing cover replaced anyway?
His mechanic isn't very well informed.
With a lot of engines the bottom of the timing cover forms the front of the oil pan sealing area.
Even with those engines the timing cover remains in place if the oil pan comes off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I seriously doubt that stop leak really stops leaks in general. For the case of the sensor connector, that's just an unpressurized leak around a bad O-ring, which is even less likely to work.


According to WIS, replacing the sensor means dropping the oil pan, which is a straightforward job and nowhere close to the timing cover. It's not in any way part of the procedure for pulling the timing cover. So no, he will not "be in there".....and why do you need the timing cover replaced anyway?
He said it being a 16 year old car with 150k, that the timing cover will eventually start leaking, but as of right now it's fine.

Does $1k sound like too much for dropping the oil pan and replacing the sensor?
 

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He said it being a 16 year old car with 150k, that the timing cover will eventually start leaking, but as of right now it's fine.

Does $1k sound like too much for dropping the oil pan and replacing the sensor?
Come by my house and I’ll do it for only $900! :cheesy:

Yes, get another quote... ;)
 

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That would be the first time I've ever heard of synthetic oil stopping a leak.
People usually complain about leaks starting after using synthetic.
That's what I was trying to say. I used synthetic oil after previously using Dino and need the stop leak to fix it.
 

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He said it being a 16 year old car with 150k, that the timing cover will eventually start leaking, but as of right now it's fine.

Does $1k sound like too much for dropping the oil pan and replacing the sensor?

As I recall from WIS:
1. Raise car on hoist
2. Remove underbody shield

3. Drain oil
4. Unbolt a torque arm (?) and move aside
5. Unbolt oil pan and remove
6. Unclip sensor


Assembly is reverse. Use proper anaerobic sealant for the oil pan. Torque to spec.


I'd say that this should be a two hour job, tops.


Note that is is nowhere close to the timing cover. So mechanic's line is BS, unless he figures the above procedure isn't worth his time. (Or he doesn't know what the procedure is.)
 

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those sealant additives are never good... It has the potential to clog other parts of your internals causing more damage then good down the road.
 

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You do not say where the leak is actually coming from, if it is from around the sender unit there is some very good all purpose sealing tape, it is not sticky but actually sticks to itself, put some around the sender unit, it is also very cheap, around .99p per roll and has 1000's of uses. If the leak is from a perished gasket, there is also a very good gasket repair, that you inject from the outside leave it overnight for the best results, its brilliant and really works, it costs £2.95 for a tube, which again goes a very long way. If it is a crack in a metal part then you can get a 2 part system that you mix together like plastercine be careful as it gets very hot as you blend it together, you then just push it into the crack, as much as you can and then smooth it off, you must smooth it off at this stage as once it has gone off, again best if you can leave it overnight, you will need a grinder to smooth it down. This comes in a tube of 12 pieces, 6 of each colour in a special paper that keeps them apart and costs a staggering £4.95, but you only use as much as you need and again you can use it for 1000's of jobs.
I hope that helps. All the best Paul
 

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Now I know you are only talking about dropping the oil pan and changing the sensor, I would recommend this,
a) drain the oil
b) use a quality engine flush, this will remove all of the built up sludge etc in your engine and also clean the small feeder runs.
c) remove the oil pan and clean out all of the sludge making sure you clean the pick up filter.
d) refit your new sender
e) refit the oil pan using a new gasket seal
f) remove the old oil filter and refit a new long life filter
g) refill with fully synthetic oil, as per you handbook or as per your motor factors checks on his system.
Hey presto, leak solved and an engine flush and oil change to boot.
Apart from the sender I have just had this done at a reputable garage, on my 54 plate 9-5 2lt turbo, the parts were £45 and the labour £40, you will have to add the cost of the new sender to that. So should be around a maximum of £100.
Now you know why we are known as RIP OFF BRITAIN, with scandalous garages like yours. Needs a nice little story in your local paper to sort out that rip off merchant. Regards Paul
 
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