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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

Dunno why my car suddenly decides to not start (doesn't turn over or engage) but all electrical seems to work (doors locks, lights and radio).

Dunno if any of this stuff is related or not but I'll narrate all the preceding events:

1. Drove it yesterday afternoon just fine
2. While driving noticed that the rear passenger door lock didn't engage like the other locks
3. Manually pushed the rear passenger door lock down while driving
4. Parked it at home and locked it
5. Noticed that the rear passenger door lock didn't engage and opened the door and the alarm went off
6. Used the key fob unlock button to turn off the alarm, locked the rear passenger door manually
7. Forgot I left my iphone and usb charger in the cigarette lighter by accident

2.5 hours later, I need to go somewhere and try to start the car and it doesn't engage. No engine or starter noise, just the clicking of the electrical system

I ignore it and use my wife's car and return to the Saab 5 hours later and try the following:
1. Try to start the car again, no go
2. Wait in the car for 30 seconds while leaving the electrical on and finally see a 'Limited Performance' message in the SID
3. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for 30 seconds to see if that resets everything and try to start the car - no luck
4. Decide to try to pull fuse 2 in the engine compartment fuse box and first remove R9 to give me more room to pull fuse 2 - but never got to remove fuse 2 as I didn't have the right tool and the plastic puller thing that comes with the car in the driver side fuse box door doesn't work very well
5. Put R9 back in its place in the engine compartment fuse box and decide to call it quits
6. Decide to try to start the car one more time...and it starts
7. Check engine light stays on but everything else appears fine
8. Turn off the car and call it a night

Woke up this morning and try to start the car and it doesn't start with the same symptoms as last night. Tried to repeat of disconnect battery/remove and put back R9 and start the car but no go. Anyone have a Tech2 that can pull the codes for me? Anyone have any suggestions/experienced this before?

Thanks!
Thomas
 

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battery
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, I'll get a new battery and see how it goes. I bought the car last December so forgot what the seller told me regarding the battery. I'll replace it and see how it goes and report back. Thank you AKS and Diggs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Note the one time I got it to start last night, the check engine light/eml(?) stayed on. I only left the engine running for 30 seconds or so. Running to the auto supply store now for a battery and hopefully that is all it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just replaced the battery and no go unfortunately. Same symptoms and won't start. Any other ideas? Anyone have a Tech2 reader nearby? Thanks.
 

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Try the "jam something against the ABS module between the strut tower" trick.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, got it all sorted. The good news is that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the car. Turns out it was the battery. Long version of the story is that when I replaced the battery, the battery terminal clamps on the car were a little tight and I didn't push them down all the way. There was probably a 1/16th or 1/8th inch gap from the bottom of the hookup clamp on the car the top part plane of the battery's positive terminal hookup area. On the positive clamp is a clutch of additional hookups attached to a weird little plastic box that is also part of the clamp. Apparently there is a starter wire attached to this clamp. However it doesn't engage until you push the clamp all the way down to the battery terminal. So the car was getting power from the new battery, but since the starter wire wasn't engaged to the battery terminal, it wouldn't start.

I've changed batteries on different NG9-3s three times before (this would be my fourth time) and never encountered this problem. Net-net is that I am out 1.5hr to my mechanic for troubleshooting this and clearing the battery low voltage error that resulted in the check engine light. Could have been a lot worse. Even if I was able to read the code with a Tech2, it probably would have taken me an afternoon of frustration to troubleshoot it manually to figure it out and/or running back and forth to the auto parts store to swap a couple of batteries. Even then I dunno if I would have figured it out.
 
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