SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's looking more and more like I'm going to end up pioleting a certain '86 900S. Now, in my bits of Saab shopping I've tried to hold to one rule. If it's not a turbo, it had better at least look decent. This particular car needs lots of help in both categories, but my chances of being able to do anything are much higher in the visuals department.

Chief among the many visual flaws is the paint, or lack thereof.

Here's the carnage:



The hood, roof, and truncklid are all toast and the right rear door has a large, rusting, dent and I'd like to replace it.

Now I can't afford a nice professional paint job, so I'm looking for my cheapest option.. which appears to be this one.

Has anyone here done it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Go For It

What's a 50 dollar paint job? If you can get those parts painted for 50 dollars, go for it! It definitely can't look any worse. Cool car, though. I have an 85 sedan, which fortunately has a turbo and pretty good paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
brownie said:
What's a 50 dollar paint job? If you can get those parts painted for 50 dollars, go for it! It definitely can't look any worse. Cool car, though. I have an 85 sedan, which fortunately has a turbo and pretty good paint.
http://www.rickwrench.com/paintframeloader.html

That's pretty much how I see it and it can't hurt me much either. If nothing else I'll learn something out of it, thus far in my life the only paint experience behind me is badly spraypainting model cars...

Oh, and, trade? ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
I have a 900s that has good paint put bad body...someone keyed the whole side of the passanger side before I had her. and there is a decent size dent behind driver side door. :cry: probably will cost a forture to fix. let us know about this $50 paint job. is it mayco?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I've seen that 50 dollar site before, but had forgotten about it. It seems like it would probably work out OK.

I'd suggest starting out with your trunk lid as an 'experiment.' It's a small size and you can remove it pretty easily from the car and work on it in your basement or garage. If possible, I'd also suggest getting your color specifically mixed to match your car and not going off of the color code. I think you'll get a better match because over the past 20+ years of exposure to the sun and elements, the paint has changed somewhat from it's original color.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I think matching the paint would be rather difficult and would rather depend on what panel you take a sample from.

I'm really thinking more along the lines of painting the whole car.. it could use it. Still undecided on that part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Your biggest challenge will be sanding out where your clear coat is peeling off. Also any rusty spots.

You might look into stripping the paint off where the clear coat is flaking off if you want to ensure good adhesion.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
I tried the 50$ paint job last summer on my 1981 Eagle SX/4. It was maroon and I painted it black



First, 50$ is way off. More like 125$.
Second, be prepared to work. This is time consuming.
Third, don’t choose Black if you can. The orange peel really shows with black. Easyest color would be white. Anything pale is better.
If you take your time, and lots of it, expect a decent result. It will not look like you «rolled» your car. Just be prepared to sand sand sand.

here is an other link http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx

PS : Must be done in the summer or in a heated garage. The paint has to flatten out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
888 Posts
You get what you pay for. For $50 they just ad paint, right over the pealing clearcoat, dings, any rust, small dents, everything just gets covered up with cheap paint.

If you want to feather out the pealing paint and deal with any other imperfections you get charged an hourly rate.
If you just want to add some color to it, go for it. Just remember, you get what you pay for. It won't look great, and it won't last long. In a year or two you may be back where you are today, only with cheap paint on top of the pealing paint that is on there now (which will continue to peal under the new paint).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,081 Posts
dasander said:
You get what you pay for. For $50 they just ad paint, right over the pealing clearcoat, dings, any rust, small dents, everything just gets covered up with cheap paint.

If you want to feather out the pealing paint and deal with any other imperfections you get charged an hourly rate.
If you just want to add some color to it, go for it. Just remember, you get what you pay for. It won't look great, and it won't last long. In a year or two you may be back where you are today, only with cheap paint on top of the pealing paint that is on there now (which will continue to peal under the new paint).
dasander - it's not a company ripping you off for $50, it's DIY brush-painting.

A couple of my 2cvs have brush paint on them - and it's perfectly good. As has been said, what you get out is dependent solely on how much you put in. And that's elbow grease...

With the 4x4, I painted most of it, with a friend doing the front wings and a couple of other panels. The bits he did peeled in sheets the first time it was pressure-washed. I put a bit more effort into the prep, and - 9 years of hard abuse later - the paint's still very solidly attached. That was proper car paint, quick-drying polyurethane one-pack.

The van was done about 10yrs ago in Dulux household gloss. It's peeling in a few places (poor prep, again) but it's still fairly good in the majority.

I'd say "Do it!".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
I've painted a few cars in the past 33 years - here's what I can tell you.

To a large extent the paint you apply is a secondary consideration, the primary consideration, the thing that's going to make or kill a paint job, is surface prep.

I've seen fantastic rattle-bomb paint jobs and I've seen disasters come out of an expensive paint booth with the best spray guns and paint you can buy. The difference has been surface prep.

Paint is brutal - paint will magnify any imperfection it's applied over - especially after you've wet sanded, sealed and waxed it.

Sand or strip as much of the old, peeling topcoat off as you can, paint the car with "filler primer" - sand it with 600 grit - hit that with primer - sand that with 1000-1500 grit (wet - with some liquid dish soap in the water) until it's glass freakin' smooth. Go over everything with a tack rag - then shoot it -one panel at a time - with spray cans of paint - lighter colors are more forgiving than dark BUT a good paint job is a good paint job - two tone paint jobs can take the eye away from mistakes.

Oh, and in the long run, it's actually easier to remove stuff than to mask over it - masking around door handles and license plates is a pain in the tush - and you always see "holidays" - where either the door handle has paint on it OR where you see the original color peeking out -

Take your time and you can have a paint job to be proud of - that's why paint jobs cost so much - they're time intensive -

Enjoy

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
This thread needs some more paint porn...




The hood, was red off of a parts car, sprayed with a gun on a shop compressor...looks better than the rest of the car. I helped with the prep, and once it was ready for paint it looked perfect. But of course, after the spray those two dimples in the middle immediately jumped right out.

P.S. don't mind the crooked grille (survived a deer attack) and headlights! ;oops: That's how they ended up after aiming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,464 Posts
I sprayed my blazer over the summer. I used PPG Omni brand paint. I think overall it was around $200. I used my 60 gallon shop compressor with the drier mounted on the compressor and then two disposable drier/filters popped in-line on the air hoses. It came out looking pretty good for a quick spray job, outdoors, in the heat, especially considering it was my first time. I would defiantly stay away from metallic’s or pearls for your first time, they are very sensitive to how thick you put in on, a little thicker on one pass and it will settle different than elseware.


Here's the thread. http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108514&highlight=painting+blazer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
wow your blazer came out looking great! I need to repaint my 900 only because the body is so messed up:(. do you have any experience with the prep work of taking out the dents? I dont know why or how but both back fenderwells are all smashed up and need to be straighted out. also someone keyed the side and need to sand it down to re-do it. and there is a decent size dent in the side behind driver door. I need a lot of prep work but dont really know how to start. is something I should try or just bite the bullet and take it to a shop to do? I will supply photos of my 900 tomorrow for review.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
davidlytle said:
do you have any experience with the prep work of taking out the dents?
- depends on the size and location of the dent.

If there are no creases and the metal is just pushed in, the first thing to try would be to remove any inner panel and try to pop the sheet metal out from inside - you'd be amazed at how many dents can be fixed that way.

No way to get to the backside of the dent from inside the car? You can try one of those "ding kings" they do really work under the right circumstance (again, just pushed in - not creased).

Major creased dents that you can get to the backside of - you can work the sheet metal using a dolly and a hammer - representative tools look like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31277
dolly on ones side, hammer on the other, you can stretch or shrink the crease right out of the sheet metal - then apply some bondo (filler) to make it pretty -

Bigger dents that you can't get to the backside of - get a 1/8" drill bit and put some holes through the sheet metal in the dented area (every couple inches) - get a slide or slap hammer - screw the end of the slap hammer (a weigth on a shaft, typically with a sheet metal screw on one end - here's a representative one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5469 - you attach it to the holes you drilled and persuade the sheet metal to come back into it's basic original shape. Then you use filler (bondo) to make the repair smooth (no more than 3/8" thick or it'll tend to crack and fall out - the less bondo the better).

Per Schroeder at grassroots motorsports magazine has been doing an interesting series of articles on building a rally Saab 99 - including a lot of bodywork and paint articles - you might check here http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/category/project-cars/current-project-cars/1977-saab-99/ - he's gotten great results with spray paint - and goes into a lot of detail about sheet metal prep and the like -

So there ya go -

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,677 Posts
Matt88S said:
I sprayed my blazer over the summer. I used PPG Omni brand paint. I think overall it was around $200. I used my 60 gallon shop compressor with the drier mounted on the compressor and then two disposable drier/filters popped in-line on the air hoses. It came out looking pretty good for a quick spray job, outdoors, in the heat, especially considering it was my first time. I would defiantly stay away from metallic’s or pearls for your first time, they are very sensitive to how thick you put in on, a little thicker on one pass and it will settle different than elseware.
Ive resprayed a few cars myself so far too and the paint/materials themselves really dont cost that much. I'd say £125-£150 max (probably same in $). I used a second hand £100 compressor and a couple of £20 spray guns.

From looking at that site spraying is quicker than rollering that many coats and it is easier to get a good finish.

I'd rather invest in the compressor and gun and spray it than roller it. Compressors are really useful once you have them too since you can also run air tools and blow up your tyres :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the info :)

I've pretty much decided I'm gonna do this in the summer if I end up with this car :)

I guess my glorious plan would be this..

A nice coat of red paint. This would also entail a debadge job and removing the 1/4" rubber strip. The headlight surrounds and grille would be done in flat black. I'd like to find the airdam and maybe spoiler off a turbo car. Then it'll have a set of Shelby wheels (they're currently in the trunk :) )

Then, in the future, smoked fender lights and clear corners up front.. get rid of the amber in the taillights. Then boost.. then an SPG kit... or not.

Ok.. I think I'm losing it now :lol:
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top