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Discussion Starter #1
I am in desperate need of advice and will appreciate any information that you can provide.
On June 6th, I purchased a 200 Saab 9-3 Convertible. The top seemed to operate slowly. The sales person said that “it just took a minute.” After driving the care for a few days, the top operated more smoothly. I thought that perhaps the car had been sitting on the lot and the battery had lost its charge. About a month later, the top failed to go down in mid-operation.

One of the hydraulic hoses that attach to the driver side cylinder blew off of the fitting. I ordered the hose from the dealer and was told that these hoses almost never need to be replaced. My general mechanic replaced the hose and as soon as we put the top down, a hose connecting to the cylinder on the passenger’s side blew off of the fitting.

I decided to take the care to a Saab mechanic to find out the cause of the hoses blowing off. It turns out that ALL of the hoses have lost the black plastic coating. The mechanic believes that I will continue to blow hoses and suggested replacing all of them. He has posted online threads to other mechanics but has yet to find anyone who has had this problem.

I took the hose to a hydraulic hose company. The owner said that the black plastic coating is an integral part of the crimping and since it is crumbling off, the fitting is not tight enough to withstand the pressure. He said that it should not be coming off and that it was poor workmanship from the manufacturer. He concurs with the fact that I will continue to blow off the hoses. He suggested just replacing the 2 hoses on each cylinder, since they provide the power to lift the top.

In addition, I have called a few other places to see if they have seen this problem. One mechanic said that the Saab mechanic doesn’t know what he was doing and that couldn’t possibly be the problem, since those hoses rarely fail. Both mechanics have worked on Saab’s for over 20 years. I feel like I am stuck between a battle of the experts. I know that I am running out of money and I certainly can’t afford to replace all of the hoses.

Have you ever seen this type of problem? Do you know where I can get the hoses cheaper? Ideally, I would like to find an overseas source, as the US sites are still very expensive. Do you have any advice?

Thank you,
Misty
 

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May have the same problem

Hi, I have a 1999 vert, and just yesterday in mid cycle of the top I got a soft top failure on the SID display and the top stopped dead. :cry: I was able to get it closed by hand and latched, but I have a huge hydraulic fluid leak on the divers side. I suspected a hose, but have yet to confirm this. Where did you view the hose fitting blown off? How much was a replacement hose?
Greg Murphy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
At the dealer, the hoses average about $200 a piece. You can get them anywhere from $165 to $185, depending on which hose you need, at thesaabsite.com. I was charged 3.5 hours of labor to put one on. So it is not cheap!
I don't know if your car is designed the same way. If you open the tonneou cover (the part that the window locks into), you will see the cylindars that the hoses are connected to. My hose actually blew off from the fitting because the plastic coating peeled off. Look at your hoses to make sure that the black plastic coating is in good shape. If they are all peeling, then you have a big problem. I was quoted $3,000 to replace all of the hoses!

If the hoses are all connected, then you should check the oil level. The oil pump is located behind your backseat. It is possible that one of the cylinders is leaking. They are about $500 a piece but it is still better than having to replace all of the hoses. There is another guy that is having a problem with his hoses too. He has contacted Saab but they said that they haven't heard of any other cases. I am going to contact them as well. If we can get enough people to complain, then it might be possible to get Saab to fix the problem. The thread is on Edmunds.com http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f1dea11/4
You might want to check it out.
Good luck.
 

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Just got hose replaced at dealer

Well the saga of the hose gets deeper.
My hose fitting did blow off on the drivers side, 5th bow.
I did find a place http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93convertibleparts.htm where you can get hoses cheaper than a dealer, but if you manually actuate the top to the closed position so you can drive it, you will not be able to reopen it to replace the hose without a TechII device to unlock the storage hatch. That's what I found out when I did it. It cost me about $620 to have the hose replaced and the system bled and fluid topped off. They said the other hoses looked OK.
Now I just need to add some of my Murph's Magic Mix cylinder stop leak, and I'll be fine...
well kinda fine. In all this I cleanned and treated the top with Raggtop. Now it leaks like a sieve during. I think the Raggtop cleaner was too agressive on the 10 year old top. I should have just used the fabric treatment by itself. The folks at Raggtop were very helpful, but if you plan on using it, I would avoid the cleaner and just use the treatment.
New top & liner at my trim shop will cost $1600. Well I guess this is the cost of having a vert.
Greg
 

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I have a crack where the hose bends (where the two roof halves come together). I found this on another site

"Hose info taken off the hose:
Parker Polyflex 263 DN2 WP 200 bar
(the 200 bar translates to about 2900 psi)"
 

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I finally found a source of new lines

Yes this thread is old but it appears lots of people are seeing cracked hydraulic lines now. Every pump on ebay shows them as well. Mine are all in shambles and have been rupturing one by one. I'm sick of it.

If I am going to tear the back apart and fix this I am doing it once period. A place from England is producing them for 40 pounds each. That's about $60 each which is still well under the $200 for saab. I talked him into a discounted complete set of 10 lines for 300 pounds. I'm buying the set and will let people know how they work out.

http://www.cabriolet-roof-hoses.co.uk/saab/

Chris
 

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Opening Tonneau

I need to replace the line to the drivers side cylinder. I was advised it is easier to access if the tonneau is up/open. Is there a way to manually open it?
 

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Unlatch the 5th bow (part with the rear window) - all you should need to do is undo the windshield latch and hit the roof button (the 5th bow latches are electronic so even with no pump fluid it should still unlatch and then error when it unable to move).
Fold the rear seat down and located the emergency valve, it's under the rubber disc in the pass through area, undo the valve a few turns.
Pop the trunk (you will have to use the key since the roof is in operation, grab the lug wrench from the car tool kit and then on the passenger rear corner of the trunk, there is a slit in the carpet (you wont really be able to see it since its under the rear corner lip) if you look under there you will see a mechanism to put the small end of the lug wrench into, you can then use it has a lever to undo the torneau cover latches and raise the torneau cover by hand.

Full details are in the owners manual, they just state the procedure in reverse (for raising the roof and locking the torneau in case of needing to close the roof in an emergency/failure situation).

If you really want you can then fold the roof back manually, the relatch the torneau cover and continue to enjoy your manual convertible top.
 

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Unlatch the 5th bow (part with the rear window) - all you should need to do is undo the windshield latch and hit the roof button (the 5th bow latches are electronic so even with no pump fluid it should still unlatch and then error when it unable to move).
Fold the rear seat down and located the emergency valve, it's under the rubber disc in the pass through area, undo the valve a few turns.
Pop the trunk (you will have to use the key since the roof is in operation, grab the lug wrench from the car tool kit and then on the passenger rear corner of the trunk, there is a slit in the carpet (you wont really be able to see it since its under the rear corner lip) if you look under there you will see a mechanism to put the small end of the lug wrench into, you can then use it has a lever to undo the torneau cover latches and raise the torneau cover by hand.

Full details are in the owners manual, they just state the procedure in reverse (for raising the roof and locking the torneau in case of needing to close the roof in an emergency/failure situation).

If you really want you can then fold the roof back manually, the relatch the torneau cover and continue to enjoy your manual convertible top.
Thank you sooooo much jakejm79...hubby is gonna be real busy this weekend! :lol:
 

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It is really a lot easier than it sounds.

Also, to anyone with just a break in the line, (and I'm assuming it breaks at the bend like mine did), it would be far cheaper to have someone (and I know hose guys can do this) splice in a piece of hose. That way you don't have to feet it all the way back. i think it is around 200 inches. Also, if the seal at the pump is in good shape, than you don't risk it or the other lines leaking when you put it back together (the pump plate). Just a thought...
 

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It is really a lot easier than it sounds.

Also, to anyone with just a break in the line, (and I'm assuming it breaks at the bend like mine did), it would be far cheaper to have someone (and I know hose guys can do this) splice in a piece of hose. That way you don't have to feet it all the way back. i think it is around 200 inches. Also, if the seal at the pump is in good shape, than you don't risk it or the other lines leaking when you put it back together (the pump plate). Just a thought...
Good advice....thanks!

Yep. there is nothing but the fitting still attached to the cylinder..the hose is completely blown off!!!! now we have to figure out how to pull this hose out and fish the new one back to the pump!!!
THANKS!!!
 

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Good advice....thanks!

Yep. there is nothing but the fitting still attached to the cylinder..the hose is completely blown off!!!! now we have to figure out how to pull this hose out and fish the new one back to the pump!!!
THANKS!!!
Hmm, new line arrived....no fitting! didn't realize they come w/o a fitting!!!!
what now???!!!!
 

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The fittings are crimped to the lines, if your 'new' line didn't have a fitting it was bad, I would get your money back.
GOOD NEWS.....YEAHHHHH! I changed the hose all by MYSELF yesterday!!! Thanks everyone for the help...Bled the system top was working ok (still has the same kinks before the hose blew up) and I was pumped!!!

Bad News...woke up this morn with fluid on the garage floor!! same spot!!
Not all the fluid leaked out....bummer...
I noticed when bleeding yesterday there was a "bubbly, frothy sound from the pump but I attributed it to the "bleeding" process..

Anyway, I have to drive it today (Mardi Gras Parade)...Any suggestions on why the leak? I am thinking another hose but I sure hope not! I know you advised changing all of them but $400 just no tin the budget right now
 

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This. On mine if I leave it open, it sounds like you describe... Like it's cavitating.
Yeah, I made sure the valve was closed...no more of that noise (thank goodness) and the top is operating but still seeing a leak (more like a dripping)....not very much about 2oz in 3 days....should I try the Lucas stop leak treatment?
 

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Is the leak from the hose or the seals (where the arm exits) on the ram? If it's the hose (or fittings) then the stop leak wont probably help, if it's the rams then it might help. But there have been stories where it has made things worse or damaged the pump so use at your own risk. Is it a continuous leak or only when you run the top. If it is the latter I would just stock up on the Febi Mercedes hydraulic fluid and live with the leak. Also if its leaking from the fittings then maybe some thread sealant or teflon tape would help.
 
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