SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I spent some time looking at various discussions about keyfob issues but I feel my situation is a bit unique in that, amongst some other things, the actual key inside the keyfob doesn't unlock the door. If this is not unusual and covered in another thread, please feel free to point me in the right direction.

2009 Saab 9-3 2.0T Sportcombi

Here's the "tl;dr" summary:

1. keyfob buttons do not lock/unlock anything
2. keyfob DOES work in the ignition (it drives)
3. replaced the battery... still nothing
4. the actual key itself (inside the fob) is not accepted by the actual lock on the door.
5. all of the controls from the interior of the car work... I can lock, unlock, even unlock the hatchback.
6. This is all using the 2nd keyfob (which came with the car) which I've been using for 18 months now. It's falling apart slightly (the rubber buttons are loose and flapping around and one button's covering is completely gone). It was programmed (?) by a technician who used what was left of the 1st keyfob which fell apart and was no longer usable.
7. I have replaced the keyfob battery and tried the buttons and tried the physical key and still no unlocking can be done.
8. I have not tried to use the keyfob with the new battery to start the actual car (because I was in a hurry as someone was waiting to give me a ride


Been having some weird electrical locking and ignition issues before. Some background on weird things from BEFORE today's problems:

A. Long before keyfob issues. Have had situations where when I removed the keyfob from ignition, the radio and interior was still "on". Had to finagle it to finally turn "off".

B. Have also had some issues where when I put the keyfob in, it will not turn. Again, some twisting and finagling eventually works.

C. Also, sometimes when I'm outside the car and use the keyfob to lock or unlock, the driver door lock does not respond. So I have to do this thing where I physically lock it, close the door and then use the keyfob to lock everything. HOWEVER, I have noticed that this will sometimes eventually cause the car alarm to go off after a few minutes. I have learned the way to do this is to use the keyfob to do the "driver door unlock" which of course doesn't respond. Only on the 2nd press will all the doors unlock, right? So to prevent the alarm to go off, I just hit the unlock button once, knowing that the driver door doesn't unlock. Sometimes it WILL unlock and then I know I can control all the locks for that one occasion. But only that one occasion because sure enough after a few hours or days, it's back to not working right.



Anyway, if anybody thinks they know, I'm all ears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,444 Posts
I suspect the ISM. Easy to change and not that expensive.

Based on its location by the cup holder and center console it is subject to all sorts of liquids and debris.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Sounds like two different issues going on here. Story is a little hard to decipher in the telling, as it kinda seems you mix fobs in the narrative occasionally.

1. Sounds like the drivers door lock motor is fading/failing/failed. I've got this on mine. If the area is very quiet, I can actually hear the motor weakly kick a little. It does have good times/days too where it just works. But other times, nada. If I push the fob button, it fails to unlock the drivers door, and I use the metal key, no alarm. Forget to use the fob, unlock the drivers door with the metal key, and the alarm goes off. Same with locking it, forget to use the fob and the alarm will likely go off in a minute or two.

2. Sounds like one of the metal keys isn't cut right or isn't to your car. Compare them and I think you're going to see one is different/wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I suspect the ISM. Easy to change and not that expensive.

Based on its location by the cup holder and center console it is subject to all sorts of liquids and debris.
But that would cause the buttons on the key fob to not work? In other words, you're saying that the ISM controls the wireless signals from the key fob? If that's true, I see what you're saying, how it could be causing most of these problems. But including the fact that the physical hidden key within the key fob itself won't go into the lock? It's worked for a long time before. Does the ISM prevent keys from entering the lock?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like two different issues going on here. Story is a little hard to decipher in the telling, as it kinda seems you mix fobs in the narrative occasionally.

2. Sounds like one of the metal keys isn't cut right or isn't to your car. Compare them and I think you're going to see one is different/wrong.
Sorry about that. I edited the original to clarify a few things.

Namely, I've been using this 2nd key fob for about 18 months. And the physical key in the key fob has worked before. It's the 2nd key fob that comes with the car.

The 1st key fob disintegrated. I used it until I was literally touching the micro buttons on the PCB board and then one day one of the buttons just didn't work. My 2nd key fob which came with the car didn't work so I had to bring it to a mechanic who said he could fix it as long as I still had the 1st one. The mechanic got the 2nd one working and did say that I was lucky he was able to get the 2nd one to pair but that if the 2nd one ever fails it's most likely going to be a major problem, so I'm a bit worried.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
And now I'm locked out.

I cannot catch any breaks on this. :(

Someone must have been "nice" and locked my unlocked door the other night.

Strange thing is, I started wondering if maybe I put a dying battery in my key fob.

So I came home from work, switched out the battery in the fob, and tried opening it.

"CLICK"... everything unlocked! (except the driver door... which stayed locked as usual)

I thought everything was back to normal (except the driver door) and locked my doors the next morning when I went to work.

Came back to the car after work and clicked unlock on the fob... no response.

WTF!!

Walked home (not far), switched out ANOTHER battery, took it back to the car the next day... no response.

Locked out of my car again.

:(

So... does anybody know a way to get in? I actually have busted motors in the rear windows. I use suction cups to keep them up! haha. But they're open a tiny crack as the suction wears off. Any suggestions on forcing those windows down?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
This is confusing. But it sounds like if you can get into the car you can start it. If true get a locksmith.
FWIW it sounds like you have several issues related to key, ignition and lock:
1. Something is wrong with the driver door key cylinder or lock actuator or both. The ignition switch module (ISM) has nothing to do with the physical key operating the door lock. The physical key is for emergencies when car battery and key battery have failed - so you can still get into your car. If the key worked before it should work now.
2. Intermittent no start or key not recognized in the ignition switch are *most likely* the ISM failing.
3. If your key FOB no longer provides remote control of locks (for doors with working actuators) points to a failing Column Integration Module (CIM). For remote lock / unlock functions the FOB transponder communicates with the CIM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for your response. I'll answer the best I can:

1. Something is wrong with the driver door key cylinder or lock actuator or both. The ignition switch module (ISM) has nothing to do with the physical key operating the door lock. The physical key is for emergencies when car battery and key battery have failed - so you can still get into your car. If the key worked before it should work now.
Yeah... I know the ISM is for ignition not the door lock... I clearly have several things going on here. However not having the door look work all the time wasn't the main problem when my keyfob worked and all the other locks responded to the signal.

However, now that the keyfob doesn't work, the physical key all of a sudden doesn't fit in the door lock.

I am wondering if the actual keyhole can be "blocked" if the door lock fails. I've never had the need to test this before. The only time I ever used the physical key was when my car battery died once, before I had the door locking problem. The key worked then.

2. Intermittent no start or key not recognized in the ignition switch are *most likely* the ISM failing.
I've had a few of those experiences, but each time all I had to do was put my finger in the ignition and push down. This seemed to have loosened it from being stuck and now all of a sudden my keyfob was recognized.

3. If your key FOB no longer provides remote control of locks (for doors with working actuators) points to a failing Column Integration Module (CIM). For remote lock / unlock functions the FOB transponder communicates with the CIM.
This is the one I need to really be worried about right? Like $1000+ worried?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,676 Posts
everytime you remove the battery from the fob you have to place it in the ISM to resync it to the system..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
everytime you remove the battery from the fob you have to place it in the ISM to resync it to the system..
See that is strange then because previously the locks opened after I replaced the battery...

Here's what happened. When I had first posted this problem, I was lucky that my hatchback was open at the time. I crawled in and unlocked the door manually. I posted the problem here and after not figuring out what exactly to do even after I switched the battery (and it didn't unlock), I'd just manually lock everything but always leave one door unlocked. ;)

I would drive my car and eventually the display would tell me my battery was dying. I thought "but I just switched the battery out!??!". I started imagining maybe everything is just simply going to hell... maybe I just need to bite the bullet and bring it into the shop. But I'm like, "hey, the manual locking thing is working out... I'll just be stingy and not doing anything for a while."

Monday night though someone had locked my door for me, probably thinking they were being thoughtful. I didn't know what to do. Locked out!

So, remembering the warnings that my battery was dead, and again thinking that maybe I switched out the wrong battery (which would explain a lot of things!), I went ahead and switched out the battery again, this time really making sure I didn't put the old one back in by accident. I then went outside to my car, hit "unlock" and KA-CLICK! everything came unlocked (except driver door of course, because it's faulty)!

So, in my mind, I thought to myself "wow... you must really have used the old battery by accident".

It worked again Tuesday morning. I drove it to work. Parked it. Feeling "confident", I locked all the doors. First time I locked all the doors since I posted this problem.

I come back Tuesday evening to get in my car and the keyfob doesn't work.

Locked out...and this time in the parking garage. :(

So if the key has to go into the ISM in order for it work after a battery switchout, how did it work Monday night when I switched out the battery and couldn't even put the fob in the ISM?

BTW, I tried switching out more batteries this morning -- Wednesday -- and it still doesn't miraculously work like it did yesterday morning... I'm now closing shop and going to try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Mine have not cared when I replaced the battery in the fob. I've not had to use the mechanical lock. There could be a change that took place later in production, but neither of my 04's care about battery replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
aerojon is correct that the remote function may require to be synchronized with the car after either car battery replacement or FOB battery replacement. And, you sync by inserting into the ignition. WIS says "may require" - so maybe not under some instances that are unknown to us.
So, maybe you need to re-sync the FOB or maybe the micro-switch behind the decrepit button on the FOB failed - so don't count the CIM dead yet.
My advice - worth what you paid: Get a locksmith to open the car. Hope you can now start the car with your key. Buy and install a new ISM. Buy a new key and go to a foreign car specialist / dealer with Tech2 and get it programmed - and make this current key a backup.
You may still need a driver door lock actuator if that door does not respond to switches or remote - but at least that does not stop you from driving the car.
Assuming you are able to do repairs: If your current and only key does not work you might try lostsaabkeys.com. The idea is that you send them your CIM and they send back your CIM and some new keys that are now mated to it. If the CIM is failed they will tell you and then you'll be buying a CIM and new keys and taking the mess to a place with Tech2 for programming. If you can do this work yourself you'll be saving the shop markup on parts and reducing the service cost to be just the programming time.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top