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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I was reading all the posts on Cigarette Lighter's not working (mine aren't working either) - I'd also like to post my story and see what you think (2002 9-5 Aero)

Here's what happened: I was putting some air in my tires using a little sears compressor, I walked away for a moment (I think one of the kids was screaming) and when I came back the compressor was stopped. I thought that was strange, and when I looked some of the wires going to the compressor were melted - I'm pretty sure the compressor shorted itself out and died. I thought to myself - no sweat, I'll just replace the cigarette lighter fuse and off I go. I checked the fuse and its ok, however both the front & rear 12v / cigarette lighter outlets are still dead. No voltage.

Apart from ripping the console apart looking for melted wires is there anything else I can look for?

thanks, as usual you guys rock :cheesy:
Bart
 

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If the wires melted together, then a fuse would of blown. Check all your fuses. Remember, the Cig lighters only works when the ignition is on.
 

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Are you getting power at the fuse when tested?
 

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Where in the 'philly burbs are you? I'm up near Lansdale. If you are close, we could meet up and do some trouble shooting.
 

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Yup, make sure you test both terminals on the fuse holder. You should get 12 V on one and nothing on the other. Make sure the car is turned to the "on" spot on the key
 

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You can leave the fuse in or take out, In just put your tester on the metal strip on either side of the fuse. Out put the tester to the fuse block. If your getting power there it's still possible that a wire burnt. If only one wire burnt the fuse would still be good if the burnt wire broke and didn't short to anything else. If that's the case you will have to get behind the dash.

I installed an amp and speakers this week and had to get behind the radio to connect a wire and thought about wiring my lighter to work with the key removed. Instead of wiring I decided to just run a jumper wire to the lighter fuse. Now this is where it get weird; i'm working on the dash and my elbow hit the window button and the window goes down. I reach for the key no key, now my widow can be operated with the key removed as well as the lighters. I always thought wouldn't it be good to roll the windows down without using the key and now I can. So far this little experiment is working with no battery drain or anything else weird. Sorry to take up so many words on you thread; but I just thought i'd share that. If anyone want's to try it the connection I used was #10 to #34 on the fuse block. In my car the #10 slot is not being used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's pretty cool - maybe someone can use it. Thanks for the tip I'm going to poke around tonight with the multimeter and see what I can find out.

p.s. at the risk of going on a tangent - how did you get the radio out? On our last saab (99' convertible, long gone now :cry:) I was able to get it out with a fair amount of wiggling and some screwdrivers that would fit in the holes. This one it won't budge!

You can leave the fuse in or take out, In just put your tester on the metal strip on either side of the fuse. Out put the tester to the fuse block. If your getting power there it's still possible that a wire burnt. If only one wire burnt the fuse would still be good if the burnt wire broke and didn't short to anything else. If that's the case you will have to get behind the dash.

I installed an amp and speakers this week and had to get behind the radio to connect a wire and thought about wiring my lighter to work with the key removed. Instead of wiring I decided to just run a jumper wire to the lighter fuse. Now this is where it get weird; i'm working on the dash and my elbow hit the window button and the window goes down. I reach for the key no key, now my widow can be operated with the key removed as well as the lighters. I always thought wouldn't it be good to roll the windows down without using the key and now I can. So far this little experiment is working with no battery drain or anything else weird. Sorry to take up so many words on you thread; but I just thought i'd share that. If anyone want's to try it the connection I used was #10 to #34 on the fuse block. In my car the #10 slot is not being used.
 

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how did you get the radio out? On our last saab (99' convertible, long gone now :cry:) I was able to get it out with a fair amount of wiggling and some screwdrivers that would fit in the holes. This one it won't budge!
I used 4 nails into the 4 release holes and did a lot of wiggling, but eventually it let go! ;)

 

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You can buy the radio tool on ebay for about 3 bucks. I just made one with a wire hanger U shaped with notches on the end. When removing the release (4) has to be pushed in to the side of the radio and the notches hook on to the release. just push tilt in and pull at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HAHAH GREAT PICTURE!

Saaber95er what do the notches look like - are the ends of the rods just ground down to make a wedge? I have a dremel I can grind those if needed :cheesy:

I used 4 nails into the 4 release holes and did a lot of wiggling, but eventually it let go! ;)

 

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HAHAH GREAT PICTURE!

Saaber95er what do the notches look like - are the ends of the rods just ground down to make a wedge? I have a dremel I can grind those if needed :cheesy:
In the picture of the head unit you see the release clips; on the the clip you see the two small raised pins. The notches would be small enough to catch the pins to pull the unit out. I used my grinding wheel to make the one I have a file would do as well. This is an ebay ad pic just to give you an idea.

http://i.ebayimg.com/07/!BTgeSzQ!2k~$(KGrHgoH-EQEjlLluvvMBKI0cr)b5w~~_12.JPG
 
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