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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Removed the ac, lines, dryer, the compressor and bracket...condenser was already gone. All of that probably pulled 80 or 100 pounds off the car and really opened up the engine compartment around the accessories.
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Installed the new lower radiator hose and the new radiator, along with 1 old and 1 replacement fan
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"Loose fit" the radiator support.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The bumper horn is moving with a few whacks of a big framing hammer so I'm pretty confident that a 4# sledge along with a block of wood will get it over to where the bumper will go on. That's tomorrow's job along with final bolting of the radiator support and attaching/tying down wiring looms and stuff.

Might be challenging getting the hood latch fitment right...seems to have a lot of slack in the cable for the interior pull. Never noticed that much slack in it before but might have to do with zip-ties in the right places. Pretty sure I only have one shot at getting it right if I want it to open again!

Started Ziggy up today too...fired right up but I shut it down quick-like when I realized the main loom carrying the injector wiring no longer had the ac to rest on and was getting a buzzcut with the accessory belts ;oops: No harm, no foul...:)
 

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Here's how the loom is held on my 86 non turbo. The engine on the car looks basically untouched. I'm about to replace the original hoses. It's interesting that those cable ties holding the loom were never really tightened much.



 

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You have to do a little looking, but those ties are available. My local hardware store has them in their repair section, but they pride themselves on the best selection of hardware outside of a major hardware distributor.
 

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Bent horn...

Scantar, you might consider using C clamps to attach a piece of steel or hard wood to your bent bumper horn and using a come-a-long to straighten the horn. If you can get sufficient attachment and leverage, you can gradually strighten the horn instead of using the sledge. Sometimes the C clamp approach works better, sometimes not. The C clamp method gives better control than a blow from a hammer. Food for thought. Thanks for posting pictures of your repair saga. Many of us are following with great interest.
 

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I am also repairing some front end damage to a Saab 900. To straighten the horns to mount the bumper I used a piece of chain and a 5 foot steel tool used to break concrete as a lever. This arrangement allowed the horns to be easily straightened without commiting violence on them with a hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The bumper horns on these are a lot easier to move than a full size Jeep...I bounced a hammer off of them and got them in the right position without any carnage ;) The key is to 'bounce' the hammer without follow-through.

Anyways, got the bumper on and marker lights. Positioned the headlights but I'm going to need a passenger side as the light has broken away from the backing frame. Also cleaned up a lot of extraneous poop, like the alarm siren and repositioned the horns for a cleaner look.

Delayed a day now 'cause the power steering belt and one alternator belt are frayed...never would have known until it was too late had it not been for the accident. See that? You never know when you're having a good day :D
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
:evil: Could the wunderkind engineers at Saab made it any more difficult to loosen the power steering pump? :evil::evil::evil::evil: I have a totally stripped off nut and no good access to even chisel the mofo off. I'll give it another couple of tries and then I'm just going to be driving an old school no-power steering car.
 

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:evil: Could the wunderkind engineers at Saab made it any more difficult to loosen the power steering pump? :evil::evil::evil::evil: I have a totally stripped off nut and no good access to even chisel the mofo off. I'll give it another couple of tries and then I'm just going to be driving an old school no-power steering car.
No problem. Whole bracket needs to be removed and pulley pressed off as any 90's pump needed. Not just Saab, GM, Ford, most asian.
 

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Re fitting hood cable and if it works or not?? don't fit your grill till after hood fitment an try out, as it's easy to get at the toggle if not in situ
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Welp, there's no boost (zero boost, not base boost) and the hood isn't lining up right (about 3/8" off) and there's no power steering (can't get the adjustment nut loose)...

but farg-it. I'm driving it to an appointment anyway.
 

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undo the bolt(nut) that hold the adjustment bracket(threaded rod) and then you can remove it, remove the knackered nut and fit a new one(nyloc), and rember to refit washer, but then wind the nut up to the approximate tension position before refit(try in place) before complete refit to safe having to do to much adjustment in situ(did mine yesterday);ol;
If you hood is that far out it's obvious? that there is a little bit of twist in the front end, not sure if the is 'any' adjustment in the fixing, but probably if you get someone the other side(screen end of hood) and you twist/tweak the hood together they way it needs to go, you may be able to get it to sit right. as a couple of mm at the hinges will be miles more at the screen end where you need it
 

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Hood

Scantar, can you post a picture of where the hood is 3/8" off? Perhaps some body guys on the forum can offer suggestions on how to correct.
 
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