this is the 1st saab i've owned so i don't know how it compares to others performance wise. its a 97 aero. it had been off the road for a couple of years when i bought it. i fitted a jetex system and a forge dump valve last night but i was dissapointed with the performance of the car. compared to my 1989 bmw 325i its pretty dull. the boost gauge needle is half way up the yellow when on boost. what should a standard cars boost show on the gauge? you can't hear the dump valve either which also makes me think it may be down on boost. any advise guys? cheers.
am i down on boost?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Joined
·
414 Posts
if you cant hear the dump valve on boost ur prolly at no boost...maybe the cotter pin fell off the waste gate rod....because even at baseboost you would hear the dump valve....if the cotter pin fell off you would have no boost and no boost is really really slow...also...if the dump valve is missing the internals like the spring and such and is being left open...you would get the same no boost...
Joined
·
42 Posts
I also have a 97 Aero. I'm not sure what peak base boost is, so if someone knows please chime in. I can tell you that according to my new Autometer digital boost gauge (has peak memory and warning functions, really a great addition), I am often peaking at between 16 and and 19 PSI when I 'put my foot in it'. The factory turbo gauge goes well into the red at this point. This might be a little higher than normal, but it has been reliable as such for the past year or so. I do know that my wastegate rod is not set at OEM, in fact I tamed it down a bit when I first bought the car used a two years ago. The car is stock, except for a Swedish Dynamics SS cat-back exhaust. I would like to hear if this is considered excessive boost in terms of keeping a reliable engine. I do plan on setting the wastegate rod to factory specs sometime in the near future.
Mark
Mark
If you're looking at the engine bay from in front of the car, there will be a little black thing with three hoses on it on the upper right side of the radiator, that's the BPC solenoid. Unplug the middle hose, which should have a W on it, and go for a drive. If there's nothing wrong with your wastegate system, then you should run into a rather violent fuel cut.
If you do, check the brake light switch, cruise control system, all of your vacuum hoses and the BPC solenoid.
And about the dump valve. If it's a recirculating dump valve, then you likely won't ever hear it.
If you do, check the brake light switch, cruise control system, all of your vacuum hoses and the BPC solenoid.
And about the dump valve. If it's a recirculating dump valve, then you likely won't ever hear it.
Joined
·
414 Posts
mine is recirculated and stock...and at full boost even with the windows up...i hear it...Cliche` said:
my 2 cents
Joined
·
73 Posts
Base boost is around 6-7 psi, the standard boost gauge needle should be at the top of the yellow. The recomendation for max boost is 15 psi, the gauge will at the end of the red. But my 9000 aero is comfortable at 20 psi which the needle is almost bending.97aero said:
Joined
·
414 Posts
thats with a manual boost controller? i wanna set mine up to around 20 without fuel cut hopefully....Aero_Ady said:Base boost is around 6-7 psi, the standard boost gauge needle should be at the top of the yellow. The recomendation for max boost is 15 psi, the gauge will at the end of the red. But my 9000 aero is comfortable at 20 psi which the needle is almost bending.
Joined
·
414 Posts
well yeah i ran a boost controller on my 1993 aero....and it spooled really fast....i just wanna set mine up to max boost around 20 except i dont want it to taper down..like hit 20+ to fall down...21 is cut...so i think ill set it for like 20max so it falls to around 18...what kinda mbc u have...how reliable?Aero_Ady said:
are you guys running with standard ecu's at this level of boost? got it sorted today but i'll probably get hung when i tell you how! :nono; the bpc is knackered so i blocked off one of the pipes and put in a piece of brake pipe between the 2 remaining pipes, fitted a proper boost gauge and drilled small holes in the pipe until i got required boost. it was running 6psi before and i've got it at 15psi now. there were a few perished vacuum pipes too so replaced all them. thanks for all the advise so far. i await my punishment for being such a rough [email protected] :roll:
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
97 model ? you still got the heater plate installed, if so bin it & smile if you look at the inlet manifold and see a 6mm thick plate between the plenium chamber & the head its still there, once you get it out you,ll know why it should be junked.
round in circles as to whether you should go ECU program versus manual boost - your choice
At a minimum your loosing a bit of engine blow up protection
For me your missing the benifit of getting the ignition mapped in conjunction with the boost & fueling & the ignition advance map makes a big diffrence to where / how the torque / power kicks in
You can also get the overboost raised / removed if it bugs you & you can set up the boost profile to work in conjunction with the ignition map to give you a real strong initial strong boost in the mid range - tailing off to manage a safe but strong top end.
A manual system might give you the same top end BHP figures but it winna match the overall drivability of the car
If the car ain,t performing maybe the ECU has already tried to cut back the boost due to knock, couldn,t do it & has now retarded your ignition
round in circles as to whether you should go ECU program versus manual boost - your choice
At a minimum your loosing a bit of engine blow up protection
For me your missing the benifit of getting the ignition mapped in conjunction with the boost & fueling & the ignition advance map makes a big diffrence to where / how the torque / power kicks in
You can also get the overboost raised / removed if it bugs you & you can set up the boost profile to work in conjunction with the ignition map to give you a real strong initial strong boost in the mid range - tailing off to manage a safe but strong top end.
A manual system might give you the same top end BHP figures but it winna match the overall drivability of the car
If the car ain,t performing maybe the ECU has already tried to cut back the boost due to knock, couldn,t do it & has now retarded your ignition
Joined
·
73 Posts
My ecu is standard aero. Basicaly you made a very crude bleed valve which works fine but not so controlable, my mate swears by it, he also uses jets out of carborators to do the same job.r4ero said:
The link below is a setup simular to mine, much more controlable & quieter too. You can pick them up for less than £20.
http://www.saabscene.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31627253
Joined
·
4,857 Posts
Like this:roll:Aero_Ady said:Base boost is around 6-7 psi, the standard boost gauge needle should be at the top of the yellow. The recomendation for max boost is 15 psi, the gauge will at the end of the red. But my 9000 aero is comfortable at 20 psi which the needle is almost bending.
Here is mine at stage 3+ ecu...
Joined
·
4,857 Posts
No, you can see the boost needle is pointing at the F for full:cheesy: That is about 24psi spike there...
John
John
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!