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Discussion Starter #1
Yeah this job is a pain in the butt. Not as bad as the subframe bushings though.

I had an issue with a stripped bottom alternator bolt. I followed Mariner (Mark I think) advice and purchased a Snap On 5/16 multi-spline tool. Since the metal for the alternator bolt is so soft it basically just stripped it out more. :cry: I was not a happy camper. After some figuring I decided "what do I have to lose". I drilled out the bolt head with a 5/16 drill bit to a depth of about .5 inches. Then I hooked up my adjustable (length wise) 3/8's Harbor Freight ratchet and gave it a go. Like Mark has mentioned before, right when you think the bolt is about to break it will come free. It will make a loud cracking sound and you will shart your pants a little in fear. :cheesy: Luckily it came free. SAAB Tensioner Bolt 55562633. Thanks Mark!




One thing I have not seen mentioned enough, is the positioning of the alternator to remove it. I stole a pic from fixmysaab to show what I mean. I had to push the front of the alternator all the way against the firewall to get enough room for it to come out. It still fought me the whole way though.


I have seen comments about the alternator being really tight getting it back into the hanger on the bottom of the alternator bracket. I agree, it was super tight. Due to the limited working room it seems impossible to get it to line up. Part of this issue is the curve of the frame in front of it and the stuff directly behind the alternator limiting your room to move it around. When I reached this point I was getting annoyed trying to line it up. I stopped for a bit and took a breather. When I came back it feel right into place. :roll:

My alternator was not bad, so I was able to do this job when I finally felt like it (it took a long time for me to "feel like it"). But my alternator has been whining for a long time and it was slowly getting worse.

Here is a few tools I used.


Things I removed:
Upper passenger side U mount
PCV hose that runs next to the intake manifold on the passenger side
Upper Alternator bracket
Serpentine tensioner/belt
Alternator wires

Good luck.;ol; I hope this helps someone
 

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I found one thing that helps is to loosen but not completely remove the big nut on the top of the rear motor mount. When you do the engine will "rock" a little bit and give you more room to get the alternator out.

Glad you got it and yes, when that bolt breaks loose you are thinking that something snapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found one thing that helps is to loosen but not completely remove the big nut on the top of the rear motor mount. When you do the engine will "rock" a little bit and give you more room to get the alternator out.

Glad you got it and yes, when that bolt breaks loose you are thinking that something snapped.
I actually took the nut off the rear mount. I just forgot to mention it.

That "crack" is crazy loud;oops:
 

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Did you put anti-seize on the new bolt? I replaced the alternator in my 9-5 a couple of years ago, and put a new bolt on the bottom since the old one was corroded. Less than two years later, the cheap voltage regulator failed. I didn't think the bottom alternator bolt would be that tight because I had taken it out fairly recently and torqued it to spec, but it was ridiculously tight. I put anti-seize on it this time, and hopefully that will keep it from being so difficult to remove the next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you put anti-seize on the new bolt? I replaced the alternator in my 9-5 a couple of years ago, and put a new bolt on the bottom since the old one was corroded. Less than two years later, the cheap voltage regulator failed. I didn't think the bottom alternator bolt would be that tight because I had taken it out fairly recently and torqued it to spec, but it was ridiculously tight. I put anti-seize on it this time, and hopefully that will keep it from being so difficult to remove the next time.
I did. Thank you for the suggestion. ;ol;
 
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