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Discussion Starter #1
so my battery light has been poping on durring boost but has been charging just fine unless i have all my lights and fan on then they dim a bit

I have 108K miles and was wondering if I can just replace the voltage regulator or the whole alt?

and if I do the voltage reg do I need to take the whole alt off?
 

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I think it's the brushes that are worn. Maybe you can buy those from BOSCH. Earthworm will probably jump in; he did that on his car last year or so IIRC
 

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Discussion Starter #3
does any one know how hard it would be for me to rebuild it my self and if it would be worth it.

I want to do it cheap as possiable, since good 130amp alt's go for like 200+
 

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If cost is an issue Used on ebay would still be cheaper than buying the kit and rebuilding just make sure the one you get doessn't come off a high mileage car.
 

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Have you ever rebuilt an alternator? It might be best to let a pro do it for you than to experiment on it yourself. The damm thing is a pain in the arss to remove to begin with, you don't want to have to do the job twice.
 

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I have yet to do this task on these newer 90 amp alternator equipped cars..
http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/Alt_repl/alt_repl1.html?20062

I cannot believe how expensive the regulator/brush set is for the GM900. The Honda was extremely difficult, I never did remove the alternator. The others were child's play(older Saabs,Volvo, VW)...

Autozone has a good price, but, I do not trust them, IMO, their price is too low and may not allow for a high level of craftsmanship nor QC..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So it looks like I have to remove the tensioner to get to the hidden upper alt bolt.
Mine is a 130amp alt, it sounds like it is more of a pain in the *** to rebuild the alt, I should buy a new one, or a low milage one.

I hope this fixes the problem. At first I thought it was the belt, beacuse it had a 100K and the belt was looking old, I replaced that and then found out that the $90 tensioner was bad, so I replaced that hoping it was fixed.
NOPE.... so I hope to god that it is the alt. beacuse I am tired of spending money on problems that no one can figure out.
When I have the battery and alt tested they come back fine. and my grounds seem to be fine to.


earthworm said:
I have yet to do this task on these newer 90 amp alternator equipped cars..
http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/Alt_repl/alt_repl1.html?20062

I cannot believe how expensive the regulator/brush set is for the GM900. The Honda was extremely difficult, I never did remove the alternator. The others were child's play(older Saabs,Volvo, VW)...

Autozone has a good price, but, I do not trust them, IMO, their price is too low and may not allow for a high level of craftsmanship nor QC..
 

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project13 said:
So it looks like I have to remove the tensioner to get to the hidden upper alt bolt.
Mine is a 130amp alt, it sounds like it is more of a pain in the *** to rebuild the alt, I should buy a new one, or a low milage one.

I hope this fixes the problem. At first I thought it was the belt, beacuse it had a 100K and the belt was looking old, I replaced that and then found out that the $90 tensioner was bad, so I replaced that hoping it was fixed.
NOPE.... so I hope to god that it is the alt. beacuse I am tired of spending money on problems that no one can figure out.
When I have the battery and alt tested they come back fine. and my grounds seem to be fine to.
Was the alternator tested under load?? All the accessories and rear defroster have to be on to determine if it's good or bad. If it checks right then you may have a diffrent problem. Don't spend money aimlessly!!! If you don't have the problem figured out, don't buy parts. That's the most expensive way to solve a problem and it almost never ends up the way you want it to :nono; ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ya I had it tested under load, nothing came up. but this was when It was just starting and not showing to many signs, before i replaced the tensioner and belt. I am going after work and having it checked out.

I havn't worried much about it beacuse I don't drive it at night and it has been charging, not draining the battery. I ussally drive my Audi at night and I only live 3mins from work. but it will be getting dark by 5pm soon so I want it fixed.

Plus the Saab shop here coulden't find the problem
 

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Check the grounds then, you may have a corroded ground o wire going to the battery or the alternator. Your voltage regulator is possibly suspect as well like you said. Only a test could confirm this.
 

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Three minutes to work ?

Talk about a rough life for the car! Condensation in the oil sump is never vaporized, the battery never recovers from starting loads - completely. An electric car would be better - plug in at home....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That would be nice...

ya I live real close, it's nice to be able to come home for lunch and watch my shows that I recorded from the night before, and eat a home cooked meal
 

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Discussion Starter #13
update

I finally got a new alt sent in the mail.
I read up on what has to be done to take it out, so I was prepared, but to say it was a PITA is a huge understatement.

you have to disassemble the rear area of the engine bay, the alt and bracket just to get clearance to get it out.

And I found that I had to take out or shove the strut tower bar out of the way and there are two fuel lines that need to be moved, but you can't move them, I had to push them down a little and push on on top of the other one get the alt past, even then I had to pull the SOB and wiggle to get it around the lines.

God i was cursing that car the whole hour and a half it tool me to do it and to tighten my head bolts.

But now the car purrs nice, dosen't have that loud alt whine. and the battery light is now gone, the car is charging good now.
 

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Sorry to bring this old thread up, but....

My alternator has been slowly dying in the last two months. What started out as a quiet "whirring" sound has now become loud enough for people walking by to look at and wonder. The local mechanic tried to charge me $600 for the fix, however after surfing the web I have found rebuilt and used ones for nearly one sixth that amount.

My car is a 1995 900s and I am wondering what voltage it requires. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I searched for quite some time in the forum, and if there is a link to such a post regarding the voltage of alternators I apologize in advance for my lack of "searchability".

I've found a mechanic who will replace the alternator if I have the part. Just looking for the cheapest way out of this situation.
 

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Not sure whta voltage it is, but there is a label on it ( or there should be) I could see my label by looking down from the top with a flashlight. I have a 96 900s and it was 90 amp. Youll probably have to get a rag down there first though.

Good luck,
Mike
 
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