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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I apologize for the length of this post in advance, the 9-5 is doing some weird things, so I figure the background info might be helpful. This is my first Saab, and my first turbo car. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and do most work myself aside from full engine rebuilds, or transmission work. Though I don't currently have a garage to work in.


3 weeks ago I purchased my '00 9-5 SE Wagon (v6 automatic) with 125,000 miles on it. Car came with very good service records, and drove great the three times I drove it (city and highway), so I felt really good about the purchase.

I was told that the entire engine had been gone through quite thoroughly recently, and that everything had been replaced. I purchased it from the third owner, who had bought the car with engine problems and fixed it up for resale.

When I inspected the service records (after purchase, d'oh) I have records for a new engine at 60k miles, and headgasket work at around 95k miles (Noted here is head and block milling, hoses, belts, some other things, and a note about damaged valves but no note on whether replaced). After this the service records are a bit more sparse as they were not being performed by a dealership anymore (started out at Saab dealer, but majority of records were from Volvo dealership).

On to the problems:

Last week I took a camping trip with my family, and the park we were at was extremely hilly, with inclines over 10-15 grade for long periods. The car handled them like a champ, but the second time we drove up to the cabin there was a great deal of oil smoke coming from under the hood. Oil was being sprayed onto the exhaust from the front of the engine, lost almost a full qt immediately. I refilled oil, and decided to not drive up the hills anymore, so I left the car up there the rest of the week, running it here and there to check for leaks. There was pooling under the car, and a persistent leak after a few days. The day we left, when I started the car there was a very large plume of oil smoke out of the tailpipe for about 20 seconds, and then it stopped, but I could still detect the smell of coolant.
When I took the car to a mechanic specializing in Saabs, I was told a sensor seal blew out due to crank case pressure, so they replaced it ($70). I was also told the turbo would need to be rebuilt / replaced sooner rather than later, but that it wasn't an emergency as there was no loss of power.

Fast forward about a week, I've contacted the man I purchased the car to call in his "warranty" and we're working on that to get the turbo replaced or rebuilt (From what I'm reading, it seems like replacing it with a TD-04 would be to my benefit). I also had them check the timing belt to see if that was replaced (Wasn't noted in service history) and was told the belt looked brand new, writing still on it.
The weird thing is that since about two days after the mechanic, I no longer have any loss of oil, and there is no smoking on startup no matter how long it's sat. I still have a very minor leak (one or two small drops when sitting overnight) but I haven't had a chance to track that down yet. I don't feel any loss of power, though being so new to the car I'm not sure I could pick it up.

Yesterday when I pulled out of work under moderate acceleration there was a slight stutter between 2800 and 3100 RPMs. The Tac needle sort-of... wiggles? It's hard to explain so I'll see if I can't get a video. And it does it like clockwork now, in the same RPM range, with the same behavior. There's a momentary loss of power, but once I hit 3150-ish RPMs it goes away and I have full power again. Issue with wastegate? Vaccum leak?

I've also noticed strange transmission behavior as well. Car shifts smoothly for a vehicle of it's age, but when coming to a stop, gear 2 or 3 seems to hold on longer than it should, causing a slight bucking, or surging. Nothing dangerous, but it's odd feeling. I also have an issue with coasting as well. You'll coast along for about 3 seconds, and then it feels like the entire engine settles or something, and it feels like the car is being dragged somehow. Because I lack experience with turbo cars, I thought this might be something characteristic but I wanted to bring it up.

These major problems on top of a host of weird electrical problems:
*rear tail light went out on the way home.
*suddenly as of two days ago, none of the power outlets work (front or back)
*Lights behind the dials for seat heat/vent have gone out
*Fog lights no longer work
*I have to press the lock button, and then the unlock button, otherwise drivers door wont unlock.

I've been doing a ton of reading on this forum, and I have some places to start. I'm going to do an oil change as soon as money allows, and put Rotella T full synthetic in (I've been refilling with this as needed, but after the first incident I haven't added much). I'll probably run either an engine cleaner through it, or transmission fluid right before the oil change as well. When I had my Saturn I used to run a few quarts of MMO oil through it before oil changes, might try that. While I'm at it I'll be flushing the transmission fluid as well. I'm going to check all of the hoses for cracks, but from quick inspections here and there everything looks almost new.

Any insights? I can't help but think things are connected, but I can't find the common denominator on my own.

Edit: One last thing, should the sunroof open and slide back, or just vent? I thought it was just a vent but while googling I found one that looked like it was open! One more thing to fix I guess.
 

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Edit: One last thing, should the sunroof open and slide back, or just vent? I thought it was just a vent but while googling I found one that looked like it was open! One more thing to fix I guess.
Moonroof should slide back into the roof. Mine had two positions - it would stick out part -way or tuck entirely. It also pops up to vent. The button slides back for opening - or push the middle to vent.
 

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Check all the grounds especially near the battery, with that many things that is where I would start.
Fuses?
check your voltage.
a lot of your issues are some what common.
any CEL?
 

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Check the check valve in the hose from the throttle body to the pcv canister. You'll need to take off the top engine cover to see it. While you're there, make sure the port in the canister for that hose is not plugged up

No tdo4 option for your v6 (without extensive modification), you get a gt15 or a gt15:cheesy:. Also no wastegate

I think the "settling" you feel when you coast is the ecu changing to decel maps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions!

I bought myself some tools today to work on the Saab, but ended up working on my old car (By the way, if you ever need to remove spraypaint from a vehicle, check out this thread (Chevy Forum))
I'll have to work on this a bit tomorrow, No garage so when daylight goes, time to come inside :( Miss being able to work in my dad's shop!

Edit:
I played with my sunroof a bit this afternoon on my lunch break. Left side seems to be stuck on something? Other side tries to pull down, but left side holds it in place. Tried pushing down on it and couldn't get it to move at all. Broken motor or something maybe... Will have to play with this another day!
 

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Thanks for the suggestions!

I bought myself some tools today to work on the Saab, but ended up working on my old car (By the way, if you ever need to remove spraypaint from a vehicle, check out this thread (Chevy Forum))
I'll have to work on this a bit tomorrow, No garage so when daylight goes, time to come inside :( Miss being able to work in my dad's shop!

Edit:
I played with my sunroof a bit this afternoon on my lunch break. Left side seems to be stuck on something? Other side tries to pull down, but left side holds it in place. Tried pushing down on it and couldn't get it to move at all. Broken motor or something maybe... Will have to play with this another day!
Sunroof has single motor. It sounds like it is getting bound up somewhere.
pushing the button fully forward should close it the sliding it backward without tilting it should open the roof completely. If it is jammed somewhere you should be able ease it open while using the switch. There is also a manual operation for emergencies under the little cover in front of the opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A lot of the electrical issues were blown fuses actually. Odd that they all blew very closely together... but oh well.

While working on the sun roof today, I think I've found the problem.
It was bound up a little bit on the weather seal, but after I got that straightened out (Which enabled me to open the vent all the way) I looked inside on the passenger side of the sunroof and found some sort of broken piece:


Looks like there's a plastic tab or something that has broken off of the end of it.

#1 Anyone know what part that is. And #2 is there a guide somewhere for removing the sunroof? I haven't purchased the WIS just yet....
 

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Removing Sunroof is major operation. You will need to remove headliner etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What about removing the glass only?

Was working on something under the car, and noticed that the transmission mount is pretty much rotted out >_< Guess I'll have to look at replacing that too. Might make shifting a little smoother eh?
 

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What about removing the glass only?/QUOTE]
Sunroof hatch (Glass hatch)
Removing
1 Open the sunroof hatch so that the cover strip retaining screws are accessible.
2 Remove the four screws holding the cover strip.
3 Close the hatch and tilt the rear edge.
4 Loosen the rear of the cover strip by undoing the clips, one on each side. Remove the strip by pulling it towards the middle
of the car. Pull out the strip through the back of the sunroof. Take care not to scratch the roof.
5 Remove the cover over the screws on the right-hand and left-hand side of the sunroof hatch. It is fastened with clips, pull it
straight out.
6 Raise the rear of the hatch.
7 Undo the four glass hatch retaining screws.
8 Lift off the glass hatch.
Fitting
1 Put the sunroof hatch in position.
2 Screw in the four retaining screws without tightening them.
3 Close the hatch.
4 Adjust the hatch so that it is lying flush with the edges of the roof.
IMPORTANT
The front of the hatch must not be too high.
5 Tighten the screws.
6 Fit the two covers over the screws.
7 Open the rear of the hatch so that the cover strip can be fitted.
8 Press on the clips on the back of the cover strip.
9 Close the rear of the hatch and open it completely so that the screws are accessible. Tighten the four retaining screws.
10 Close the hatch and check its function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Moose, Looks like I'll have to put that on hold for a while, and deal with only venting. No leaks, so it's not a priority.

Like I said before I'm going to need to replace the transmission mount, but I was looking around and can't really find one to order? Only thing I could find is This Sport Mount. I've had similar mounts on other cars (Saturn's) And those added an intense amount of cabin vibration, does anyone have any experience with this one?

What about removing the glass only?/QUOTE]
Sunroof hatch (Glass hatch)
Removing
1 Open the sunroof hatch so that the cover strip retaining screws are accessible.
2 Remove the four screws holding the cover strip.
3 Close the hatch and tilt the rear edge.
4 Loosen the rear of the cover strip by undoing the clips, one on each side. Remove the strip by pulling it towards the middle
of the car. Pull out the strip through the back of the sunroof. Take care not to scratch the roof.
5 Remove the cover over the screws on the right-hand and left-hand side of the sunroof hatch. It is fastened with clips, pull it
straight out.
6 Raise the rear of the hatch.
7 Undo the four glass hatch retaining screws.
8 Lift off the glass hatch.
Fitting
1 Put the sunroof hatch in position.
2 Screw in the four retaining screws without tightening them.
3 Close the hatch.
4 Adjust the hatch so that it is lying flush with the edges of the roof.
IMPORTANT
The front of the hatch must not be too high.
5 Tighten the screws.
6 Fit the two covers over the screws.
7 Open the rear of the hatch so that the cover strip can be fitted.
8 Press on the clips on the back of the cover strip.
9 Close the rear of the hatch and open it completely so that the screws are accessible. Tighten the four retaining screws.
10 Close the hatch and check its function.
 

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The Saabsite, Eeuroparts or FCP groton has the transmission torque mount.

I cut up old rubber fuel line and squidhed it in real tight and secured it with zip ties...cheap and cheerful!... Works like a charm......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah okay, I saw a few of those, but was not certain if it was the correct part.

Will the one I linked do the job as well? It's about half the cost of a full mount, and has pretty excellent reviews.
 

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Oh come on, now my driver side high-beam is out -_-
Saabs are awesome cars - when they work right. Mine nickle and dimed me to death...I miss my Saab, but it's nice knowing I can get in my new car in the morning and not be paranoid that something else will break. I miss the luxury of the Saab, but don't miss having to work on it every weekend.

With that, check your orange relay in the engine compartment. Wiggle it. I hear you can re-solder the connections as well - search for that fix.
 
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