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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 2008 93 2.0T with a stage 3 tune from MPS. I recently decided to get a replica Hirsch Diffuser installed and it looks great. Afterwords I got the dual exhaust to match (already had a OBX down pipe).

Problem is, ever since I had the dual exhaust put on, it has been rattling a lot (after/during) driving it. It is rattling where the down pipe is and on the sub frame. I will put in park or reverse after driving it and it will rattle (much worse in reverse). But the worst part is the fact that it will hit the sub frame when I drive. When I drive over bad roads or make a somewhat sharp turn I can feel it and it kills the driving experience. And every time I drive it, it gets a little bit worse...

Can anyone give me some advice!?!?

Thank you!
 

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Who makes the exhaust/DP?
 

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Sorry I missed that somehow. It's hitting the subframe, driver's side of the tunnel, right?
 

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Hmm... Sounds about right. Is this a rather common issue?
Dunno if common but my OBX did the same exact thing. Hated it. I cut off a tiny piece of the corner of the subframe then patched/sealed with brush-on POR15. Worked great.

Or just leave your subframe alone and get a better quality DP.
 

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Was cutting part of the sub frame a challenging job?
Not at all! Reciprocating saw and a metal blade. Took maybe 20 seconds? It's not super hard steel or anything. That part is also hollow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Interesting, I don't really have the budget to buy and pay someone to install a new one that is really my problem, but cutting the sub frame doesn't seem like an amazing idea either lol.

Is that part of the sub frame easy to access (so I could cut it) and do you believe it could hurt the vehicle in the long run as I plan to keep it.
 

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I drove the car with it cut for several years. Never any issue. We're talking like less than 1/2" of material on an area that isn't really structural. The only concern, if any, is rust, which is easily mitigated by a rust proofing product like POR-15 or similar.

Very easy to cut with the car up on ramps or jackstands. Be careful though, you're not allowed to get squashed by your own car after climbing underneath with a sawzall!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the only reason this happens is because the down pipe is hitting the corner of the sub frame and cutting around 1/2 of it would fix the issue?
 

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That was the case for me I'm not sure about your car you'll have to take a look
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Last question, what down pipe would you recommend if I choose that route? I was looking at Genuine Saab's down pipe because I am currently catless and I might go back to catted.
 

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Not sure if this was resolved, I know it's been a little while since the last post....

I too have the OBX DP which I love, it was great for the price. I bumped into this issue as well. My fix was to loosen up the connection at the turbo flange, crawl under the car, and shove a partially deflated 20oz coke bottle between the subframe and the dp, then re-tighten the turbo flange bolts. That way the coke bottle pushed the DP as far away from the subframe as possible while I was tightening everything. Haven't heard a noise from it in ~60k miles.
 

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Not sure if this was resolved, I know it's been a little while since the last post....

I too have the OBX DP which I love, it was great for the price. I bumped into this issue as well. My fix was to loosen up the connection at the turbo flange, crawl under the car, and shove a partially deflated 20oz coke bottle between the subframe and the dp, then re-tighten the turbo flange bolts. That way the coke bottle pushed the DP as far away from the subframe as possible while I was tightening everything. Haven't heard a noise from it in ~60k miles.
Great idea. I did something similar with my 9000 Aero downpipe.
 
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