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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've found one for sale from a 1990 900.
A few questions:
I've got a 1993 LPT, is it going to fit?
Will it fit directly to the metal runners already attached behind the existing plastic mouldings running down either side of the car?
The front bumper of the kit is damaged but it looks exactly the same as mine, as does the rear. Is that right or are they in fact different?
Had a search but not found any answers, any experience greatly received!
 

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The front bumper is the same. The bumper extensions are not. You'll need the mounting rails for the side skirts {between the wheels} and you'll need plastic screw inserts for these areas {10 per side} to screw the rails to. These are part number 6911804. You'll need to drill the bottom of the front wing and of the quarter panel {in both cases, just near the door edge} to retain the bottom of the skirt. You'll also need to drill the bottom front of the rear wheel arch for the retining screws.
 

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drilling? damm! i'm very close to closing a deal on one, but i didn't know i would be putting more holes on the car. i thought saabs had all the holes allready, my wheel arches have holes where the current bumper skirts are screwed in, then there are holes under the current thin side mouldings.


if this is the case, make sure you do something when you drill and leave bare metal open, this doesn't sound wonderful.
 

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The front of the rear wheel arch has no holes {or mine didn't}. The bottom of the side skirts near the doors need to be held on too. You'll have to drill for that. I doused all the mounting bolts and holes with Waxoyl when fitting. Make sure you fit the plastic backing pieces behind the mounting rails {or make them up from polythene sheet or something. Stops paint damage and mixed metal corrosion.
 

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Won't stainless steel cause mixed metal corrosion if used in car body steel? The body kit mounting rails are fully insulated from the body with plastic sheet and their screws go into plastic inserts. The only steel screws into steel are at the rubber mounting points in the wheel arches and at two bottom edge mountpoints on the side skirts.
 

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OK, did that search.

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/galv-design.htm says:
Apply coatings with judgment. Example: Do not paint the less noble metal without also painting the more noble; otherwise, greatly accelerated attack may be concentrated at imperfections in coatings on the less noble metal. Keep such coatings in good repair.
So, a stainless steel fastener is likely to cause concentrated corrosion around the hole.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm puts all but one type of stainless steel as being more cathodic (less active) than steel which says the steel will corrode preferentially. However, it also says:

To avoid corrosion, avoid a small anodic area relative to the cathodic area.
Corollary V - The same metal or more noble (cathodic, higher number in the table) metals should be used for small fasteners and bolts.
but this is contradicted by the 'coatings' bit above.

It looks, to me, like painting the bolts after fastening is necessary (but of course you can't get at the contact point to paint that). Dousing the area in water inhibitor looks likely also...
 
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