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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

Seems like I'm always trying to glue things back together being an NG900 owner and am looking for the best adhesives and glues.

I don't smoke but I want my ashtray repaired. The front trim piece had separated from the tray itself (before I bought the car) and I once tried Gorilla glue to reattach it to the chromed metal portion on the front but the bond either failed or someone forced it to fail. All that remains is a flaky residue on the metal part and the plastic trim is clean.

I'd prefer a slightly flexible bond. What are some good, strong adhesives out there for bonding dissimilar materials?
 

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You need to scuff/roughen the plastic, I have had relatively good luck with JB weld for bonding almost anything, I would look for anything 2 part, single part adhesives don't tend to work very well with dissimilar materials.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Certainly there's some "wonder-glues" out there to be had?

I just picked up a tube of generic 'Contact Cement' from Hong Kong Freight but I don't know its actual qualities/properties other than "Use on: Formica, Laminates, Masonite, Particle Board, Wood, Most Plastics, Rubber, Leather, Metal, Tile."

I once glued a tachometer to a dashboard (because I didn't want to drill) with something called Stix-All by Elmer's but that was some years ago. Pretty good torsional strength but I never actually tried to remove the thing. I recall it had the look and consistency of clear silicone sealant and the same acetic acid odor. That product might be my ticket...
 

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The 3M 5200 Adhesive/Sealant is a marine adhesive and the slow-cure version takes 7 days to cure. I've used to successfully seal cracks in PVC distribution pipes in a hot tub. And, I always carry some on my boat. But, IIRC a tube, like the one that fits in a caulking gun, is around $20... Ron
 

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What is the plastic part made of? Often you'll find on the reverse side a small triangle with a few letters in it such as ABS, PS, PP etc.

If it is PP, Polyproylene, you'll not ever get it stuck to anything with a decent bond. The only way to properly attach PP to something is by bolt/screw or plastic welding, and then only to other PP parts. PP is not glueable, at least not with a durable bond worth mentioning. Roughening it up helps but still far from 100% bond
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Comes in a 3 oz tube too. Going to see if I can find it locally in that size.

;ol;
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I do believe that is what it is, Polypropylene, as it is flexible and not rigid. Has >PP+20%TALC< molded on the back side. The studs or attachment points are broken off as well. I just want to make that area in the dash complete and have it at least function as a decent coin box (or better than that combination coin box/cupholder abomination in the armrest).

I'd consider drilling the pieces together if I could find some decorative fasteners like miniature carriage bolts in black metal so all one would see is two small rounded nubs from the outside.


What is the plastic part made of? Often you'll find on the reverse side a small triangle with a few letters in it such as ABS, PS, PP etc.

If it is PP, Polyproylene, you'll not ever get it stuck to anything with a decent bond. The only way to properly attach PP to something is by bolt/screw or plastic welding, and then only to other PP parts. PP is not glueable, at least not with a durable bond worth mentioning. Roughening it up helps but still far from 100% bond
 

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I had a similar problem when I shortened the synthetic stock on my Benelli M1 S90. I routered out an undercut and fit in 2 tabs from the portion I cut off, but nothing held.
I couldn't get an answer to the material from Benelli, and everything else I tried from the hardware store wouldn't bond.

I called Praxair (local 3M dealer) and they got me in touch with a 3M rep, explained what I wanted to do and they sent me 2 tubes of Scotchweld 8005, applicator gun, plunger and mixing nozzles for free ;ol; 500 rounds and counting, recoil pad still holding on.
Might be worth a shot and see. I think the adhesive alone was like $40 a tube.

8005 is for PP and other low energy thermoplastics.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...ECIE20S4K7000000_nid=LS56XTRKJXbeQH8HT14PGTgl

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...hYX75QBsT96HHQJNGCWYP1s!2145413142!-799979082

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-Structural-Translucent-CARTRIDGE/dp/B000WSTB8W"]3M(TM) Scotch-Weld(TM) Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8005 Translucent Duo-Pak, 35 mL [PRICE is per CARTRIDGE]: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great information in this thread and ditto for the "this-to-that" application guide RBatsch posted.

On a related note, I had the task of reassembling my grill and wanted to glue it this time. The chrome trim piece had separated from the black, slotted grill portion long ago; the plastic pegs had all sheared off and the only thing really holding it all together was the "SAAB" emblem which was still intact. The grill always rattled annoyingly when the hood/bonnet was shut so I removed it from the car, cleaned it thoroughly and am now waiting on the 24 hour cure of this product:


We shall see...
 

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You have to watch those small tubes of adhesive. I bought a little $4.00 tube of something very similar. and when I opened it, it was just clear latex caulk. A large tube of caulk had 5 times more content and was 1/2 the price of the small tube. And, it wasn't even adhesive... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would be afraid that it'd turn out to be a tube of half air and half product. I have good feelings about this one though; Loctite is a reputable company and who doesn't use their thread locker?

It's also curing well and although clear and flexible, does not appear to be mere silicone sealant. I applied it to both surfaces and stuck them together after a wait of about 5 min for "tackiness" and it bonded very well, no sliding off or anything.
 
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