Hey Banman, I fixed the gauge, it was a bad vac line, which I had suspected. As far as vac lines and charge hoses, the car boosts to the red with the wastegate unplugged from the BPC solenoid, so doesnt that mean I am not venting boost pressure due to a loose hose?
You're doing the diagnostic correctly so far.
The first step is to isolate the problem - is it control/BPC valve related or a basic engine/turbo fault.
Due to the fact that full boost pressure was observed when you pulled the W hose from the BPC, a turbo/engine fault can be eliminated. That leaves just the control circuitry - or the BPC valve itself - as possible causes.
Next step is to check fuse 5 in the fuse block under the RH side of the dash. But I'm sure you did that. That fuse only serves two circuits - the APC system and the coolant circulating pump (only used with V6 engines).
A thorough inspection of the 3 hoses is next. Again, I'm sure you have done that.
Get your meter out and check the power supply:
Ignition switch in ON position.
Check that the valve is supplied with power (+54 circuit) by connecting one side of a test lamp/meter to pin 2 (the middle one) of the valve's connector and the other side to a good grounding point.
If you observe 12 volts at pin 2, that proves there is power available to the valve.
Check the resistance of the valve windings:
Take resistance readings in the valve's connector across:
Pins 1 and 2
Pins 2 and 3
Nominal resistance is
3 ±1 ohm in both cases.
Finally, check the lead connected to pin 3 of the valve:
Ignition switch in ON position.
Plug in the valve's connector. A weak buzzing sound should be heard.
If a sound can be heard, eliminate that part of the control circuit.
Unfortunately, that's about as far as you can go without an ISAT. I have had some success freeing up a sticking BPC with PBlaster. Just spray some into the 3 nipples, let it sit for a couple of days and hope for the best.