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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was searching the web for a write up on this, but all the anwers were quite ambigous, there was no step by step process. So, I decided to do this after installing a boost gauge yesterday.

THe tools needed:
1)T10, T15, T20, T25 star looking bits, the ones DI cassete is screwed in with(I just bought a big set of them because they are everywhere on this car)
2)8mm head socket and a flex drive (you will have to tilt it considerably because it is located right next to the windshield.
3)General ratchet.
4)Flat bladed Screwdriver.
5)Knife.

THe materials needed:
1)Boost gauge.(can get at a lot of different places)
2)some 3mm silicon tubing, 2-3 feet to be safe(pepboys had it)
3)A pilar pod(partsforsaabs. com Don't go for the universla ones from pepboys, the suck)
4)Plastic t-piece. (I don't remember a size, and don't have it on hand to look it up. I just bought an assortment of white tpieces of like 6 sizes from pepboys, it was only 5$)

The process:
1) Disconnect the battery for AT LEAST 30 minutes to allow the airbag capacitor to loose charge.
2) Undo the a-pilar covers. They are held in by three plastic clips each. Just give it a good pull, going from top to bottom, it will come out easy.Repeat on the other side.
3) Undo 3 T10 or T15 star looking bolts from the speaker grille and remove the grille.Repeat on the other side.(See pic)
4) Remove soft, spongy looking things from around the speakers on both sides(they just pull off, probably there not to give vibrations)
5) Remove two T15 star looking bolts(one on the side of the dash(door needs to be open), one on the top) which were right under the spongy thing. Also remove 8mm bolt which is golden color, right under the windshield. Repeat for the other side.
6) On left hand drive cars, in the dashboard, right around where the stock boost gauge is, on the top there is a hole. THere is a T15 bolt. Remove it. (so, just move your hand on top of the stock boost gauge. THe bolt goes through the black thing to the dashboard cover.)
7) Remove the plastic panel just under the airbag(held by two T20 or T25 bolts). After removing the bolts, you need to pry ithe panel out with a screwdriver. Be carefull not to damage the soft dashboard. Other then the bolts, it is held VERY tightly by three clips, one on the left, one in the middle and one on the right. Pry them against the airbag cover, because it is hard and won't be damaged as easy as the dasgboard. Give it a good pull. (see pic).
8) You will see a wire with a clip and 4 golden T25 bolts. Don't disconnect the wire, it is for the airbag. Move the clip from its mounting, and then unscrew the 4 bolts. Now, slide the airbag out towards you. Some prying needs to be done. The best way is to stick a flat screwdriver in between the plastic railing of the airbag and the front mounting hole(the one for the bolt you just undid) Pry at this place, alternating between left side and right side. Then it will come out easy.
9) I just held the airbag on my lap, not disconnecting the wire. You will see a black T15 bolt holding the top cover of the dashboard in place. Undo it. (see pic). Then slide the airbag somewhat back in so it doesn't fall(VERY IMPORTANT:))
10) Remove the top of the dashboard. There are some clips holding it to the wire which goes between apilars. SLide the wire in the clips towards the front of the car, it will com out. If you have ECC, the black light sensor cover will come of. Just lift the top of the dashboard, move it a bit forward and the slide out backwards, and to the side, out of the door.
11) You will see from the stock boost gauge 3mm black hose. Cut it somehwere in the middle of what you see. It is convinient to remove the Trip Comupter with the flat screwdriver(just pry it out and disconnect the wire clips).
12) Insert a t-piece. The size should be so that it is REALLY hard to pull the hose onto it, but still possible. YOu won't miss it, becasue next size smaller will slide right in, and next size larger you won't be able to stick into the hose. It helped lubricating the t-piece a bit with WD40.It is a pain, try sticking a philips screwdriver into the hose first to make it a bit bigger.Also, rright hand goes through the hole for the Trip Computer, left is holding the hose or the t-piece, depending which side you are doing. THat's the most comfortable position.
13) Connect the one end of the silicon tubing you have to the T-piece. Same here, WD40 helps, philips screwdriver helps. Also, right hand throuhg the trip computer slot holding the t-piece, pulling tubing onto it with you left hand. Lead the tubing to the a-pilar and lay it right next to the steel wire going from apilar to apilar. Skotch tape the wiring for the new boost gauge to (on the boost gauge end) and the other end of the wiring leave sticking out of the trip computer slot.
14) Make sure you have enough tubing to reach the gauge. Also, make sure that the connection to the t-piece a secure. Now, have a beer.
15) Now you can out the dashboard top back in, and basically reassemble everything back to the step 2. THe procedure is the reverse of disassmbly. When installing the speaker grille next to the apilar where the boost gauge is going to be, make sure that the silicone hose is not constricted. You will see that there is a wire going through the apilar. Just lay you tubing next it it with the wiring for the boost gauge.
16) Install the right apilar cover just by alling the clip and pushing them in.
17)Make a hole in the left apilar cover. I used philips screwedriver to make a hole and then widened it with the flatblade scredriver. You really need a hole only big enough to allow the 3mm tubing and the boost gauge wiring to pass through. Make sure the hole is going to be covered by the gauge pod you will install later. Pass the silicone tubing and the wiring through the hole and install the apilar cover by alinging the clips and puhsing them in.
18) Now align the boost pod, and pass the tubing and the wiring through the hole where the gauge will be. Before that slide the rear bracket from the boost gauge onto the tubing, because you will secure the gauge with that bracket. SO, the order is this, the bracket, then the pod.
18) Connect the tubing and the wiring to the boost gauge. For the tubing again, the same tricks apply, WD40 and philips screwdriver to get it on.
19) Slide the gauge into the pod and secure it with the rear bracket.
20) HOld the pod with the gauge where you want it on the pillar and then just screw it in with the screws supplied witht the pod into the apilar cover.
21) THeoretically now, the only thing left is to connect the wiring for the lighting of the gauge. Enjoy the new view of the interior of your car. Have a beer.
22) Follow the instruction for your gauge for the wiring. THe trick is that if you have the Trip Computer(the later one), there are two harneses connected to it, one which actually is connected to the leads, and another, on the bottom of it, which is connected to nothing on the trip computer. I think it is the harness which is supposed to be connected to the simpler trip computer, the one with round clock. So, the harness is emty. There are bunch of wires, but important ones are brown/white and black. Black is your ground and brown/white is you plus for the lighting of the gauge.
23) Strip the wires, like 5mm long on the ends of them. THen just "screw the wires" basically interwinding individual strands with each other, making it stringer and more unified.
24) Stick one wire into the harness lead where the black wire comes to, ands tick another into the harness lead where brown/white are connected to. Stick them into the leads, where the harness would connect if it would be used. Check that the boost gauge is lighted. THen carefully install the harness into the cip on the trip computer with your wires still in it. Check again for gauge ligthiting. Theoretically, the wires will get quite securily stuck between the harness and the trip computer body. THen connect the real harness to the trip computer and install the trip computer into the dash.
25) That's it. Start your car, warm her up, take a ride and look at the gauge. Get immense pleasure from really quirky needle going up through the numbers of power:cheesy:

Hope this helps.
Here are some pics.
First one is the result.
In second, right above srs sign the is a bolt(step9)
4th one is the panel below the airbag. The two bolts(one covered one not) are clearly visible.
3rd one is the mounting screws for the speaker grille.
Klim.
 

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