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Discussion Starter #1
I believe I posted that in wrong forum so I am trying again
My 2001 (9-3) just started making a lot of smoke. Before it was only at the start when the car was cold. I also noticed smoke coming from the nipple at the valve cover. I pulled out the hose and smoke was coming from the cover for a while, even after turning off the engine. At the same time I noticed that oil dipstick was dry. Additionally I have PO420 but that showed up about 2 days ago. The car was not driven extensively recently but I didn't noticed any change in driving power, idle or any other behavior except this heavy smoke.
Please help.
 

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What color is the smoke; are you losing any coolant? I'm guessing that since you are down on oil that the smoke is blue? But then again, if the turbo seal has let lose, then the oil burning off can almost look white. Do you have a really long screw-driver, if so remove the IC hose at its outlet and check for oil. That is if you have a worm gear clamp on it.
I would not drive it until you figure this out, but I'm sure you know this.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Ims.
Your guess maybe right. The smoke is definitely on the white side not like in burning in cylinders. In addition I noticed clicking, metallic noise when engine is running ( I am running it only for diagnosing), like from valves. So I checked the spark plugs and they are completely dried and nicely burnt. I don't yet have any experience with turbo but looks that it is the time
Thanks again
 

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If its a lot of smoke, it will be really clear if the turbo has let lose when you check that hose, should be oil in it. That clicking noise might be the blades hitting the compressor housing, could be a valve tick from lack of oil up top, etc. Lets hope its the turbo, they are somewhat inexpensive compared to internal engine issues, and pretty easy to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was able to remove that IC hose (the big one about 3" in diameter) from intercooler. I hope this is the correct one. Then I didn't see any obvious traces of oil. I am ataching picture
 

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That looks like the hose between turbo and intercooler, so definitely the first stop for oil. But oil from the turbo can also go straight into the exhaust as well. Other candidates would be a clogged PCV system or an actual engine problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks,
As I said I checked spark plugs and they are dry and clean. Also smoke is WHITE not blue and not black. What should I check next.
Should I check compression?
 

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Compression could tell you if you have a bottom end problem, but not if you have leaky valve stem seals or a leaky CHRA. Figuring out what fluid you're losing and at what rate will probably help narrow down the search.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For compression test I need worm engine and I am not sure if I can do that. If not compression what next step should I do?
 

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Clicking noise.... slide down pipe over, reach in and wiggle shaft on turbo.
White smoke is either water burning due to HD or its oil being dumped right into the hot DP. I'm guessing oil since you are getting a cat error code, but its a guess because you should have seen some oil in that IC pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I was trying to do compression test and failed . I wormed up the engine. Pull out fuse for fuel pump, removed DIC and spark plugs. I hooked up tester into the first cylinder ,by hand.Than when I was cranking engine the needle in the gauge was jumping from the zero but not holding as it should. The tester was rented from the Autozone. What did I do wrong. By the way, when I was running engine to worm up, there was no more clicking from the engine or form turbo. Smoke was heavy, maybe bluish, and only at the begining. Also I am not sure what HD and DP stands for
Again please help
 

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Your car does not have to be warm for a compression test, especially if you were only getting smoke at startup before all of this happened. Most do them cold anyways.
Compression gauges are pretty cheap, might as well buy one.
Pull DP off and take a look at shaft play.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Ims. This will simplify the process. Now, I just took out engine shield splash on right side and saw significant oil leaks. The picture, which I attached, is from underneath and shows area more or less below turbo, or front right part of oil pan. The inside part of oil pan is dried and clean. This car was always using the oil, about 1/2 qrt for 500 miles, but internally, so this is something new. I don't think it has something to do with the smoke and turbo but explains recent loss of oil. I was dropping oil pan more than 2 years ago but didn't noticed any change in oil consumption.
Now about this "Pull DP off and take a look at shaft play. I don't have any experience with turbo, but can turn the bolts and nuts. Before I start this how big is this job, and do I need any special tools?
Thanks a lot for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I made next try to check compression this evening. This time rented Brand new tester from o'reilly auto parts. Hooked it to cylinder #1 and worked as expected . Needle stopped at 155. Hooked up to the 2nd got zero , next one the same and 4th the same. Repeated in cylinder #1 and the same. Needle of the gauge was just jumping from zero and getting back. So what I do wrong?
 

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Either:

You are holding the pressure release valve, or it has become jammed

The tester is not sealed against the cylinder head- a damaged oring on the tester or it is not sufficiently tight

The engine is damaged and does not generate sufficient pressure to move the gauge
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did test again. Before I did it alone so needed gauge which holds the pressure. This time my wife was turning engine and I was using my old tester which I new that it keeps building pressure but is not holding long enough to do it in one person. The readings were 200, 200, 200, 190. There are obviously not precise and engine was cold. The rented testers were "quick connect" type and mine ,red on the picture, with thread. The other difference is the length of the thread going to cylinder head.
I think that this eliminates engine as a potential cause of this smoke from the exhaust. Now I can follow IMS advise to pull DP off and expose turbo. I don't want to start it before having good picture what should be done. I can see that just disconnecting from the exhaust pipe requires unbolting three nuts, with relatively easy access, but what else should be removed to see turbo?
Again please help
 

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It's not explicitly necessary to remove the exhaust, you could remove the intake as well. The exhaust side is a much better view and offers better access, but the intake is less work and less risky.

To remove the exhaust side you need to disconnect the two oxygen sensors near the thermostat, remove the three nuts at the turbo, two bolts at the bracket below the turbo, and two more bolts at the coupler to the intermediate pipe. You may be able to skip the coupler and just slide the exhaust away, but you need to be careful not to bend the flex pipe too much or you will damage it.

Exhaust hardware is difficult- often rusted or corroded in place. Make sure you use a lot of penetrating fluid (Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench) beforehand and during so you don't damage anything.

Be aware that a compression test only checks compression. It doesn't rule out leaky valve stem seals or a PCV problem.
 
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