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Hi any help appreciated. Car was running fine then had problems starting after 6hrs standstill.now non start(3weeks). Was in process of changing rocker gasket today noticed broken pipe back of engine. Would this be my non starting problem.
Thanks jsale
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That's part of the PCV system I believe. It should be repaired, but I don't think it would have any significant effect on the starting or running of the engine.

So does the engine crank and crank but does want to start?
 

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That's part of the PCV system I believe. It should be repaired, but I don't think it would have any significant effect on the starting or running of the engine.

So does the engine crank and crank but does want to start?
It did but battery died in the end. Will recharge tonight. And best place to get all new pipes please thanks jsale
 

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Best place to get parts are the on-line stores, many of which advertise on this site. partsforsaabs.com, eeuroparts.com, pelican parts.com, etc.

Crank-no-start is often a symptom of a bad CPS, although that usually shows up when the engine is hot and the car will start when cold. however that's not always the case. Does the tachometer move when the engine is cranking? if not, that's a sure sign that the CPS is bad. not hard to fix, but buy the original Bosch part and make sure you get the o-ring that was on the old one out of the block because it won't work with two o-rings in there.
 

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That broken NRV is typical 9-5. You can get a proper replacement but it comes with the heat-shrunk pipe which leads to the right (in the pic) down to the PCV catch can. It’s rather difficult to change. I used an aluminium valve and constructed a bodge from fuel pipe. The flow is right to left in your pic, of oil vapours into the throttle body. When it’s on boost, the NRV stops it blowing back into the catch tank. Assuming the valve’s still valving, all it’s doing is not sucking up the vapours. Mine broke but stayed together, possibly by the suction?

Get a new valve with 10mm nozzles. It will go straight into the left pipe, and since the rigid pipe at right is 10mm OD so use a bit of 10mm ID fuel pipe to join to that. Not silicone, which will weep eventually since its porous to oil.

There’s no +ve pressure at the pipe break (if the valve is still good. Suck/blow it to test) so you could temporarily tape it or glue it.

As said, thats not your problem though.
 

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to check influence on starting: plug it with your finger, let someone else start the engine.
It gives you an unknown leakage, which might cause start problems.
 

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to check influence on starting: plug it with your finger, let someone else start the engine.
It gives you an unknown leakage, which might cause start problems.
It looks like the end that goes to the crankcase is broken. I don't think the engine knows the difference between pulling crankcase vapours and plain or underhood air.
 

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The difference is the amount of air. The oil separator contains a small orifice which reduces the air flow and therefore the leakage. But as I said, the test is quite simple, the part should be repaired anyhow.
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used an aluminium valve and constructed a bodge from fuel pipe.
Do you have a part number?

Mine broke and I cobbled it together with cable ties over a year ago and it hasn’t given me any problems. I don’t recall starting problems but I did get a Check Engine light.
 

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I have those aluminum valves on two of my cars. The last one I got on eBay. The seller had the old NG900's plastic PCV valve listed, and that's what the picture showed, but I was sent the new aluminum valve.
 

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Unfortunately when looking in the part description it does not include the Edna Editions in the years that this valve fits...has anyone found that it does or is there a different part number?
 
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