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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would there be a page of someone who has details on how to drop the oil pan?

I know this has been covered quite a bit. I have read that I will have to drop the subframe. This scares me a little, should it? The car has about 100k miles and I'd like to do this.

Many thanks if you can help, fellow Saabers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is fantastic, thank you. Although, it is written that the subframe need not be moved. Is this the way to go?

Hope it won't take too long, and hope it will be clean.
 

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davevt: this is 9-5 procedure....why would you recommend it for 2001 viggen?
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100844&highlight=sump
Think about this. What do the the 9-5 and 9-3 viggen have in common? A 2.3L engine.

Your link is for a 2.0L engine and includes a few extra steps not necessary for removing the oil pan.

Anyway, both will work. And, to answer the OP's question: I only needed to remove the front four subframe bolts on my '99 SE, but I loosened the two rear bolts. I then jacked up the transmission to create more room between the subframe and the oil pan. Lastly I used a pry bar to lever the subframe a few inches further down. The issue isn't getting the pan out, it's having enough room to get it back in without smearing the gasket sealant.
 

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You already have great advice above. I would do it but make sure you have plenty of time and alternate transportation for trips to the parts store. You're bound to break a bolt or find something else that "needs fixin" while you're under there. Are you planning on cutting the balance chain while you have it exposed?

Here's a shot of my '01 9³ screen at 60k miles...

 

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Remember... you're going to need a BIG breaker bar. Or, gorilla strength. Your choice.

Other than that, no sweat. Not a tough procedure at all. Just time consuming.
 

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I used a 2' 3/4" breaker bar with 3/4" 6-point impact sockets and a 2' piece of black pipe for a little more leverage. I was afraid that all that leverage might pull the car off the jack stands though, until I started pulling forward instead of side-to-side... Ron
 

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and make sure you torque them back down just as tight or your subframe will shift as mine did making nice clunking noises. though mine was due to a faulty torque wrench ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many thanks for the link and advice. I'm not sure if I'll end up tackling this myself. Not many things here are "hard" but can be a bit scary if you have not done them before. I read one of you said (in the posted link, longjon76) you should not attempt loosening the subframe bolt if the car is on jackstands. This makes sense. So you should loosen them while the tires are on the ground? This contradicts something else I read that these bolts should not be undone with weight on the subframe. Also, he said when the subframe is removed, the engine will not fall, or anything like that. I think part of the scariness to all this is that I lack the knowledge in what function the subframe serves etc. Does it help in holding the engine, or is that the engine mounts job? Will keep thinking about it and reading on.

Thanks gentlemen.
 
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