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Discussion Starter #1
So first one -

I keep getting "left brake light failure" on the SID. But, everything checks out. Brake lights work, wiring is good, I have no idea. Any ideas??

Second one -

The picture shows it all. My question is this: How serious should I be about replacing it? Can it wait? If so, how long? How hard is it to do? Doesn't look to shabby. Should I replace all of them? I saw some coolant and oil line kits on ebay, should I get one and do everything? Or just get the one I need?

Also, for the 3rd pic, what sensor is this? Looks like it is leaking.

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Thank you all
 

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Replace tail light bulbs.
Have you checked connectors? I have met several sedans which have melted ground wire pin in connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replace tail light bulbs.
Have you checked connectors? I have met several sedans which have melted ground wire pin in connector.
Problem - Tail bulbs are new cause they were blown but aren't now. And I can't see anything obvious in the connector. It all looks good.
 

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Try to swap bulb holder plates from left to right and vice versa. Just bulb holder plates (connectors are same).
Do "brake light failure" move or stays?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Try to swap bulb holder plates from left to right and vice versa. Just bulb holder plates (connectors are same).
Do "brake light failure" move or stays?
That is a good idea.. Let me go try that!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, no brake failure came on when I did that, reset the holder plates and still no brake failure... no I am oh so confused.
 

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Well, no brake failure came on when I did that, reset the holder plates and still no brake failure... no I am oh so confused.
My Saab act like yours, it's simple no burnt bulb no problem, just wait. The Saab 9-3 is just overtly sensitive.
 

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The lamp circuits get current pulsed when the car starts up and diagnostics run. If the current is out of limits (too low or too high), that's when you get the bulb fail indication. In your case, you might have a higher resistance in the circuit, wonky socket connection, wrong bulb in the socket, or a bad component or intermittent connection in or at the REC. Note that the failure is at test time, not operate time. Whatever it is fixes itself when it gets continuous current and heats up a little, or the REC has an issue. I'd ignore it.

You can also get this indication right before bulb failure, as the filament thins out before it breaks.
 

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What am I waiting for exactly? Lol. Will it eventually stop working?
Wait for a burnt bulb. I get a ton of message for the brake, turn signal, fog and central rear brake lights. The next day no issue and no message at all. Changes in temperature are enough to send messages, simply too sensitive. The only time it work is for a burnt city light, the harmless light along the HID, the SID was right on that on!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm also now getting front left turn signal failure -.- which yes it would cause the blinker to flash really fast (don't know if the outside light is on) but then it behaves normally.. Could there be a bad ground to JUST the left side of things??

Also, any clue with the oil leak? Turbo oil supply line?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Have you double checked grounding of left tail light connector?
I mean, it is grounded when I stick my multimeter into the ground plug and also onto the negative of the battery terminal. Gives 0 ohm resistance.. How else would I check it? I almost wonder if there is a loose wire somewhere. Or something similar. I also keep getting random Right Rear Abs Failure but then goes away for awhile and is good, then randomly i'll go over a bump and bam there it is again. But The wiring is all sorts of tucked in and protected I would be shocked if it is broken somewhere not obvious.
 

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I'll throw this in (after working on low voltage DC systems for 33 years): Make sure all the contact points are clean (the ones on the connectors and the ones on the bulbs) undamaged and that the bulbs seat in their sockets nice and tight. Use a piece of fine sandpaper to get them clean. Then put a little dab of dielectric grease on the contact points before putting the bulbs in their sockets. This prevents water (and air) from getting in there and causing oxidation. This is what we call in the trade; "a gas free joint".
 

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I'll throw this in (after working on low voltage DC systems for 33 years): Make sure all the contact points are clean (the ones on the connectors and the ones on the bulbs) undamaged and that the bulbs seat in their sockets nice and tight. Use a piece of fine sandpaper to get them clean. Then put a little dab of dielectric grease on the contact points before putting the bulbs in their sockets. This prevents water (and air) from getting in there and causing oxidation. This is what we call in the trade; "a gas free joint".
I agree with this man completely. I used a small right angle pic to pull the metal contacts upward in the socket so that they make a nice spring loaded electrical connection to the bulb.
i go thru tailight bulbs like every 5 to 10k miles. So I buy quality ones from rock auto and keep em in the glove compartment. Saab has a spec for the exact bulb they like. Cheaper to buy at rockauto than auto parts store

additionally, i had water leaking in my taillight via the lens to housing joint. I reglued that at some point
 

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Discussion Starter #20
replace that rusted pipe.
Which one is it though? I saw a "kit" on ebay for turbo oil and water lines for like 120ish, I wouldn't mind getting the whole kit and doing them all. But I don't know what that kit includes (nothing in the pics looked remotely close to what I have)

I think the pipe is the oil feed pipe to the turbo.. Can anyone clarify?
 
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