I keep getting "left brake light failure" on the SID. But, everything checks out. Brake lights work, wiring is good, I have no idea. Any ideas??
Second one -
The picture shows it all. My question is this: How serious should I be about replacing it? Can it wait? If so, how long? How hard is it to do? Doesn't look to shabby. Should I replace all of them? I saw some coolant and oil line kits on ebay, should I get one and do everything? Or just get the one I need?
Also, for the 3rd pic, what sensor is this? Looks like it is leaking.
Try to swap bulb holder plates from left to right and vice versa. Just bulb holder plates (connectors are same).
Do "brake light failure" move or stays?
Try to swap bulb holder plates from left to right and vice versa. Just bulb holder plates (connectors are same).
Do "brake light failure" move or stays?
The lamp circuits get current pulsed when the car starts up and diagnostics run. If the current is out of limits (too low or too high), that's when you get the bulb fail indication. In your case, you might have a higher resistance in the circuit, wonky socket connection, wrong bulb in the socket, or a bad component or intermittent connection in or at the REC. Note that the failure is at test time, not operate time. Whatever it is fixes itself when it gets continuous current and heats up a little, or the REC has an issue. I'd ignore it.
You can also get this indication right before bulb failure, as the filament thins out before it breaks.
Wait for a burnt bulb. I get a ton of message for the brake, turn signal, fog and central rear brake lights. The next day no issue and no message at all. Changes in temperature are enough to send messages, simply too sensitive. The only time it work is for a burnt city light, the harmless light along the HID, the SID was right on that on!
I'm also now getting front left turn signal failure -.- which yes it would cause the blinker to flash really fast (don't know if the outside light is on) but then it behaves normally.. Could there be a bad ground to JUST the left side of things??
Also, any clue with the oil leak? Turbo oil supply line?
I mean, it is grounded when I stick my multimeter into the ground plug and also onto the negative of the battery terminal. Gives 0 ohm resistance.. How else would I check it? I almost wonder if there is a loose wire somewhere. Or something similar. I also keep getting random Right Rear Abs Failure but then goes away for awhile and is good, then randomly i'll go over a bump and bam there it is again. But The wiring is all sorts of tucked in and protected I would be shocked if it is broken somewhere not obvious.
I'll throw this in (after working on low voltage DC systems for 33 years): Make sure all the contact points are clean (the ones on the connectors and the ones on the bulbs) undamaged and that the bulbs seat in their sockets nice and tight. Use a piece of fine sandpaper to get them clean. Then put a little dab of dielectric grease on the contact points before putting the bulbs in their sockets. This prevents water (and air) from getting in there and causing oxidation. This is what we call in the trade; "a gas free joint".
I'll throw this in (after working on low voltage DC systems for 33 years): Make sure all the contact points are clean (the ones on the connectors and the ones on the bulbs) undamaged and that the bulbs seat in their sockets nice and tight. Use a piece of fine sandpaper to get them clean. Then put a little dab of dielectric grease on the contact points before putting the bulbs in their sockets. This prevents water (and air) from getting in there and causing oxidation. This is what we call in the trade; "a gas free joint".
I agree with this man completely. I used a small right angle pic to pull the metal contacts upward in the socket so that they make a nice spring loaded electrical connection to the bulb.
i go thru tailight bulbs like every 5 to 10k miles. So I buy quality ones from rock auto and keep em in the glove compartment. Saab has a spec for the exact bulb they like. Cheaper to buy at rockauto than auto parts store
additionally, i had water leaking in my taillight via the lens to housing joint. I reglued that at some point
Which one is it though? I saw a "kit" on ebay for turbo oil and water lines for like 120ish, I wouldn't mind getting the whole kit and doing them all. But I don't know what that kit includes (nothing in the pics looked remotely close to what I have)
I think the pipe is the oil feed pipe to the turbo.. Can anyone clarify?
I had an ECM go bad in one of my Saabs and couldn't clone it as I didn't have Trionic can flasher and the proper tools at the time. I was able to grab a used one and program it and eventually get it tuned...again. Now I have a Vtuner map running on the 2.8 and I'm trying to future proof it but...
How the heck do you get the rear badge off a convertible?
I have an 06’ 93 convertible and the rear badge has seen better days so I’ve bought a replacement. How do I remove the old badge? I was going to do the old fishing line trick but the badge‘s surround is recessed. I’ve taken the boot...
Wife's 2005 9-3 2.0 Linear had an oil leak, it was slinging ALL over the belt and pulleys.
Just took the passenger wheel off and degreased and hosed everything off.. Let it run for about 30 min.
I expected it to be the crank seal, but it's bone dry behind the crank pulley.
I did noticed very...
Dears,
I am from Lebanon i have Saab 9-3 Arc 2004.
I read tons of threads and i didn't see my issue .
My Saab 1 and only key fob started to show key not accepted on the screen.
the key will not turn to on position and there is no click sound when i insert it in the ISM
the key will open the...
I talked to the dealership today....I have my choice....
A grey vector
A cosmic blue arc (standard or automatic)
A black arc (manual)
Any advice?
Mattica
/Mod Edit/ Here's a nice place to put a picture of your car.
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