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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im in the process of ordering up new vac lines for my93 9000 aero, but have swappd a few parts over from my old car and come up against an old irritation that I cant remember the answer to.....;oops:

Ive fitted a forge atmos valve from the spares car that was known to be working. Now the wastegate chatter is far more audible when you blip it on the throttle body but the valve doesnt seem to be venting????? Or at best is very intermittent. Ive had this previously and am sure that a vac line or such had jumped clear but cant find it. The car is boosting tho although feels a little under par??

Please save me endless hours head scratching and red faced embarassment!! :roll:

Thanks as always in advance' Paul :cheesy:
 

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Wait, so do you experience lack of power, or no venting? Are you sure the spring in the vlalve is correct? They are different for different pressures...

Klim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can I add that the vac pipe looks good for the dash turbo gauge - yet the gauge isnt working!!
There is way too much surge for their to be no boost. The waste gate rod has a seal of weld on to stop that from jumping clear as they have been known to do... Im puzzled now ;oops:
 

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Posted by aeroT16: Can I add that the vac pipe looks good for the dash turbo gauge - yet the gauge isnt working!!
Either the boost gauge is faulty, or there is a break in the line between the gauge and the firewall. Use a T to insert another boost gauge in the line leading to the firewall, position this gauge on your dashboard, go for a drive and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the thoughts....Are the gauges known to become faulty? I have had a few saabs ant adding an additional gauge was just for pose value really. I have one on the spare car with a t piece so will swap it over tomorrow.

I havent ever known a dump valve that wouldnt operate though - although sometimes at stationary with the bonnet up i can rev it and get it to vent quite aggressively. It almost seems intermitent?? Is that even possible??

Im a bit miffed as i have ordered some vac pipe from pasrts for saabs that hasnt arrived as swiftly as previously. Was going to be my job for the weekend....
 

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If you have a break in the line to the boost guage, that's the same line that supplies manifold vaccuum to the dump valve. Without that vaccuum, the dump valve will never open.

Let me rephrase that - if there is a break in the line, the dump valve will not see anything like the full effect of the manifold vaccuum, and will behave erratically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Excuse me..... maptun Stage 5?!!!!!!!!!!!! :roll: Oh my word. That must make setting the alarm clock in the morning a waste of time?? Id be sat up just watching the clock and waiting for daylight to break!!!!!!!!!! :cheesy::cheesy::cheesy:

Thanks for the advice.

Any thoughts on the easiest way to replace the vac pipe thru the bulk head and upto the gauge? I was thinking attatch a length of new pipe to the old in the engine bay and then gently tease it thru until it arrives thru the speaker hole. But then, how do you get the little bugga onto the back of the gauge nipple???? ;oops: lol
 

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Yes, Stage 5 is fun. Fortunately, the JT exhaust noise as the revs build up is so glorious that my wife is terrified and won't go on highway trips. But it's automatic transmission, so I change gears manually, taking care not to "abuse" the box (as Abbot Racing would say).

I don't know the answer to your question about the line between firewall and boost gauge, but from what I've heard (a) boost gauges are pretty robust and (b) breaks in that part of the line are rare. However, breaks/cracks in the line between firewall and the T connecting manifold, firewall and dump valve are extremely common and not always visible at first sight.
 

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Take off the top dash inside the cabin and the plastic tray at the rear of the engine bay ( where the ECU + aircon etc.. hide) and all will be revealed but for a quick Dump valve fix just run a new hose direct from the manifold to the valve, there is a spare spigot
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all :cheesy: Normans idea solved that issue which then led me to explore the probable failing vac line behind the dash.... and then under the bonnet 'where the wiper motor n stuff is unda a black tray...' (cant beat technical expertise!!) and there she was - jumped off the nipple. I have promised myself that when my silicon vac lines arrive, I will replace that one too and do a job worth doing. Until then, I hope to be moving in the right direction :cheesy:

Out of interest Norman, can you also run an additional boost gauge from that spare spiggetty thing on the big silver bit under the wotsitty thing that covers the engine?? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just got a bottle of tippex and a stencil set.... "Mappturn stage 6" fits nicely across the rear spoiler.....;) LMAO
 

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you can run another line for a gauge, you can T off the existing line going into the SAAB gauge, but the best thing you can do, is just take the hose off the stupid useless thing SAAB call a pressure gauge. I have no idea what on earth its supposed to tell you

Scuse me sir can you tell me how much boost your running ?, Aye its red (or in my case its the 3/4 full on the fuel gauge, one day I,ll get it to read empty:roll:
 

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if you just remove the hose it acts as a boost leak tho, and ive had my car loose up to 2psi peak boost because of it. one timei blew it off, and on my current 9k i just noticed that with the radio off i hear a nice hissing, low and behold if i watch the tsock gauge it says my max boost is at mid yellow while my aftermarket goes to 15...i normally hit 17-18.

for an aftermarket gauge you can just run a line out under the false bulkhead and there is a nipple onthe back of the intake manifold.
 
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