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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replaced master cylinder rubbers on my 88 c900 8vT and night stopped the bleeding job, but, vehicle still rolls forward and backward when in reverse and the keys out, my thoughts are that the drive should be resistant to movement due to no pressure in system.

The car has been laid up for some time but it shouldnt be disengaged as it is now, any thoughts?
 

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If your car is in gear and it still rolls, your problems are not with the brakes. Your drive system is falty somewhere, like a CV joint or try bearing or even a bad inner cup. If not then you still have the car in nutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Spg 1, the title of the thread should have been a clue, the issue is with the clutch maybe not too clear though.
 

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OK, first of all, what master cylinder did you repair? the Clutch or brakes? What problems did you have before this rebuild, any? did you take out your clutch and presure plate during this job and if so did you forget to take out the spacer ring from the presure plate?
We need more to go on if you want help, so help us help you:)
 

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as far as i know, the problem that laid the car up was cluctch related, and the title of the thread states " clutch question"... so A) why would he be replacing the seals of his brake master cylinder? and B) what is a try bearing?

spg1 said:
..... like a CV joint or try bearing or even a bad inner cup. If not then you still have the car in nutral.
when i was in the car and Steve was towing it back to the "secret location" where it is kept, there were no apparent issues with the CV's or inner drivers - and we were assured by the previous owner that it was just a clutch issue, most likely a pressure issue

dont worry steve, i got what you were on about in your post.... ;)

G
 

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The try bearing is just something I heard it called before. It is called a Carrier Bearing sorry for not calling it the right thing.

It sounds like you just got the car, did it run and when put in gear did it just rev up and go nowhere?. If so do you have any riped CV joint boots? in saying this I just wanted to eliminate the posibility of the problem being there.

When I said which master cylinder both are conected indirectly to the clutch (they both use the same sorce of fluid) Was it blead corectly? Even if it wasn't the clutch would still be locked on to the flywheel, unless the clutch plate is tore up, then yes the car will move when in gear.

If the car runs and is in gear, what do you hear or what happens when you try to move the car under its own power?
 

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spg1 said:
The try bearing is just something I heard it called before. It is called a Carrier Bearing sorry for not calling it the right thing
sorry, never heard of a carrier bearing either....
the car was bought (not by me, i just sat in while it was towed) by steve having both of us seen it running and having given it the once over... the previous owner had had it all its life, but when his wife died his heart wasnt in it anymore - he assured us it was off the road with just a clutch issue, hence the master cyclinder references....

steve works for a well known (GM) brand as an engineer on the assembly line, so i think he knows his clutch from brake systems! :roll:
as for specific details as to what happens when its in gear, running and lifting the clutch, he will fill us both in when he returns
G
 

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A carrier bearing is the bearing at the end of the drive shaft that goes into one of the inner cups or inner drive cups and has tree bearings on the end, this is where the word (try bearing) came from meaning three.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Let me expand, Clutch master cylinder seals replaced, little improvement when bled, remove clutch housing cover, the pain in the ar*e black plastic one, place sweaty palms around slave cylinder gaiter and have some NEW fluid coat fingers, time for some new seals methinks, only puzzler now is that my original question is , when in gear and reverse engaged the hydraulics are bolloxed the car should not be able to be moved? Enlighten me if you can please? My thoughts are that the slave is at its max travel and the diaphram springs are compressed thus a break in drive ?? Ta G
 

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I've never seen clutch hydraulics fail in such a way that the clutch is disengaged. When the hydraulics fail, it becomes impossible to disengage.
If you have the clutch cover off, roll the car a few inches while watching the clutch; see if the disc moves.


Carrier bearings "carry" the differential, one on each side. The outer race is mounted in the casting that holds the Driver.
 

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The carrier bearing sounds like what is usually also called the tripod bearing. I can see your point, a poorly bled /non functioning clutch hydraulic system would lead to the drive always being engaged, not disengaged. The only problems I've seen to match these symptoms are:

1. Clutch disk broken up. I saw this with a reconditioned clutch that had worn out and the plates broke up.
2. Broken / dislocated drive shaft / inner driver / CV joint.
 

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THE ANORAK said:
Replaced master cylinder rubbers on my 88 c900 8vT and night stopped the bleeding job, but, vehicle still rolls forward and backward when in reverse and the keys out, my thoughts are that the drive should be resistant to movement due to no pressure in system.
Are you sure it is definately in reverse properly? On my car with its old gearstick+box you could push the stick into what looked/felt like reverse to remove the key but it wasnt really quite in gear.
(I found this after it rolled off into my back wall one day after i'd parked it up!)

It sometimes took a bit of pushing or going into 1st before trying reverse before it would really jump into reverse proper. Or you had to be rolling slightly. It usually made a nice crunch too.

It shouldnt move more than a few inches of rocking back and forth when it is really in reverse.

Try turning the key and sticking it in another gear then trying to rock it. This will test if it is just the stick not going into reverse properly or if it is something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jim Mesthene said:
I've never seen clutch hydraulics fail in such a way that the clutch is disengaged. When the hydraulics fail, it becomes impossible to disengage.
If you have the clutch cover off, roll the car a few inches while watching the clutch; see if the disc moves.


Is it feasible for the slave piston to overtravel and not return? Tommorow will reveal more, Brownies and darkness stopped work tonight.
 

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it is possible and i have had it happen. i have also seen a slave cyl. frozen with corrosion in the extended position on my spg when i got it. had to take the ****er off with a hacksaw :lol:

so yea make sure the slave cyl hasnt overtraveled and frozen out, the cowling over the clutch removes pretty easily. just a few bolts (and turbo piping on a turbo)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As mentioned last post all will be revealed tonight as the Manure are on the telly (one for you G ) and all the world as his dad will be watching except me, got balls deep into the c900 clutch tonight and found some things out, firstly I dont want to sound like a smart bottom but here goes......................................... The slave and thrust bearing were at a very overtravelled position allowing the fluid and pressure to bypass the seals and leak allover my clean driveway!!
Dont know how cos I purchased the car this way but the bearing was off centre and possibly the spring was allowed to move fron its centre axis preventing it from returning, hence clutch permanently disengaged and the formentioned rolling situation, took some jiggery pokery to dis-assemble but all apart now photos to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
G, not at all!! A walk in the park this time even in the dark, no where near as much swearing and grunting!! By the way I,ve some nuts and bolts for you a,la Mathews clutch removal sticky or was it Tomarses?? Anyway it works well, Steve
 
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