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Discussion Starter #1
My Dad also had a Saab with a stick shift and I remember him complaining about having to constantly replace the clutch cable.

So when I bought my own Saab with a stick (runs in the genes?), and the clutch cable failed, it came as no surprise. :roll:

The problematic part was not the cable itself, but the plastic eye which hooks onto the pedal. Why is the dopey thing made of plastic? It's like it's designed to fail. And reading the forums, it doesn't seem like I'm the only one with this problem.

Does anyone know where I can buy an aftermarket version with a stronger eye, like one made of steel? Or titanium alloy? I don't want to break down again...
 

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When I changed my OEM clutch cable last year, I don't remember a plastic hook, and I'm at the lake and can't look at the old one. It might be worth your time to call eEuoparts have have them look at a new OEM cable.

I just got home and checked my old one, and it does have what appears to be a nylon hook. It's funny that I never noticed it on the 2 cables I've changed... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Suggest to Dorman for improved aftermarket part

They make all kinds of improved parts. They made an aftermarket NG900 4-cylinder oil pan.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/.
Or make your own metal yoke instead of the plastic one for a cable with a broken yoke.
 

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Unless there's something wrong with your clutch, a cable should be good for 50K miles at least. If you want to play it safe, replace every 40K miles and you should never have a break down.

Saab cables are the best bet. Most people who've installed aftermarket head back to the Saab cable after they can't get theirs to work right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I've heard that if the pedal is stiff, greasing the throwout bearing can help. So maybe that was my Dad's problem. I haven't gone 50k, so I don't actually know yet. The pedal doesn't feel too tough, but I'm used to a hydraulic clutch.

Or maybe my Dad kept replacing his cable with aftermarkets, which used cheaper polymers.
 

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Ive been running a NAPA adjustable cable cable for about 90K, at least..Zero issues what so ever..Installed with stock clutch with a bunch of miles on it(throw out bearing went), used the same cable with the Viggen clutch..
Set it and forget it).. Not so sure what the failures are..I know the OEM cable failed on the girl that had the car before me at about 70K(original miles)
 

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been there, done that - even tried the OEM self-adjust cable - that was a catastrophe

went back to a NAPA aftermarket manually adjustable cable (with a plastic eye)

a few hints:

- lube the hell out of it - I hang mine up in the shop, stick towels under it and pour oil down the inside until it runs out the bottom

- handle it with kid gloves when you install it - you don't want to crimp the sleeve or the inner cable

- there's a clip coming off the inner fender arch, under where the cable comes through the firewall and a bit ahead of it - I use it only for holding the cable when I'm adjusting it - after finishing with the adjustments (and locking the locknuts), release it from that clip and let it hang free between the firewall and the lug on top of the transmission casing

- make sure the plastic "eye" is seated firmly in the notch on the clutch pedal arm - and make sure the return spring is seated firmly against it

- forget about the dust boot on the other end of the cable - it's never been anything but trouble for me - rip it off or let it ride back and forth with the cable

- adjusting the cable - easy-peasy once I figured out what tools I needed - I use a crows foot socket on a long extension and a faucet wrench to break the lock nuts free (and the adjusting nut loose from the sheath) - then I make the adjustment by hand - then the long tools to tighten the locknuts again

- and I'm buying a cable luber (google it) and a spray can of cable lube and planning to lube it from the firewall end (filling it out to the transmission end) every six months - I'll put it on my top waterproofing schedule
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks!

The thing is, it broke on the second day of ownership. That and my Dad's stories... it didn't seem like a coincidence.

@Billloveland: This is good advice! ;ol;

I will be sure to drench the thing in lube. I wish I'd done this before putting it on, but it still beats the hassle of greasing the throwout bearing.

I think I know the clip you're talking about (on the fender arch). I'm not using it. But since the clip holds the housing and doesn't touch the cable itself... it shouldn't make any difference, right?

The dust catcher is this thing? Good tip, I pulled it off.


I adjusted the cable so there's no pressure on the clutch lever, but no play either. I readjusted it a few days after the replacement, as the thing set into place. Let me know if I'm supposed to have a bit of pressure or play. I've heard that there should be an inch of play... but I assume it's meant that the clutch doesn't actually disengage until the pedal is in that far, not that the cable should actually be an inch loose.
 
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