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Discussion Starter #1
I have gone back over as many threads concerning AC problems as I can find, but haven't seen this one-- so I hope it's not something that makes everyone slap foreheads and think- we've covered that many times. Sorry if this is old ground. This is a '03 Linear with +/- 93K miles that was very well-maintained by the PO.
AC seems to blow cold air, but at such a low volume it doesn't have much effect. When the fan bars are at full on the display, the passenger side blows about as much as my wife's Impala does at '3' and the driver's side is more like a '2'. I hoped it would be a clogged cabin filter, but checking it today it's pretty clean, and running the AC without the filter but with the cover on doesn't make much difference. Codes come up '0'. I saw the passenger side flap arm move and I can hear other flaps moving although I have not checked the driver's flap arm, mainly because I don't get a '8' code. I have calibrated the AC several times with no change. I'm not sure where to start looking to solve this. Is there a way to test the blower motor without pulling it?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Could be a weak blower motor, or the motor control thingy help me out guys what do you call it resistor?

anyway does the fan speed up from 0 - to all bars and back down? if it doesn't increase and decrease its probably the resistor, if it does but doesn't blow well you can try and check the aquarium in front of the windshield maybe debris has collected inside the housing on the intake side...if not could be a weak blower motor assuming no one has shoved shop rags in your vents. Haven't been to Driversedge have you? lol sorry had to slam that shop.
 

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I have gone back over as many threads concerning AC problems as I can find, but haven't seen this one-- so I hope it's not something that makes everyone slap foreheads and think- we've covered that many times. Sorry if this is old ground. This is a '03 Linear with +/- 93K miles that was very well-maintained by the PO.
AC seems to blow cold air, but at such a low volume it doesn't have much effect. When the fan bars are at full on the display, the passenger side blows about as much as my wife's Impala does at '3' and the driver's side is more like a '2'. I hoped it would be a clogged cabin filter, but checking it today it's pretty clean, and running the AC without the filter but with the cover on doesn't make much difference. Codes come up '0'. I saw the passenger side flap arm move and I can hear other flaps moving although I have not checked the driver's flap arm, mainly because I don't get a '8' code. I have calibrated the AC several times with no change. I'm not sure where to start looking to solve this. Is there a way to test the blower motor without pulling it?
Thanks in advance.
I have the exact same problem, and haven't been able to figure it out. any help would be great!!
 

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My problem with weak airflow ended up being the fan controller, part #4869319. It's a total PITA to replace--heat sink in driver's footwell, harness through firewall to blower motor, and back through firewall into passenger's footwell.

There are instructions in the WIS to determine if the controller has failed. Basically, apply a ground to the blower motor's case with the harness still attached. If you get full fan speed, the controller is bad.

The controller varies the blower motor speed by pulsing ground. When you apply a direct ground the blower motor should have full speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, guys. When I had this problem with my last car (Benz) it was the fan controller...twice, which is when I learned to buy the real part once rather than the knock off once and the real part when the cheapie fails.
And, er, umm..what's the WIS? Sounds like there's some good info there I didn't know about.
Thanks
 

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WIS = Workshop Information System

Check eBay. It's a disc on which you'll find diag/repair information for Saabs.
 

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I have gone back over as many threads concerning AC problems as I can find, but haven't seen this one-- so I hope it's not something that makes everyone slap foreheads and think- we've covered that many times. ...
Thanks in advance.
Try the simple thing first, the cabin filter can be clooged ( especially after all those miles if it has never been changed. Maybe chek that first?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cabin air filter looked good (PO was good about the service schedule) also no real difference in volume with or without fliter. Blower does respond to control-- more volume with more bars-- but full on is not very full on. I think I need to do the 'direct ground to blower motor' test of the controller described above. I assume I'l need to access the motor through the under hood area between the wipers? Or can I get to it under the dash while the glove box is out (for the filter check I just did)?
And thanks for the WIS explanantion-- guess I should have known that.;oops: I'll check eBay for it. What's a reasonable price for the CD?
 

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you have to go under the hood. be ready to wrestle with stuck windshield wiper arms. they protect the blower motor from access extremely well!
 

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...I assume I'l need to access the motor through the under hood area between the wipers? ...
Yes, to get to the blower motor you have to remove the wipers, the rubber plugs underneath the wipers, the cowl trim, the wiper motor and linkage (they come out as one assembly), then the blower motor cover in the center.

The ground-to-blower-motor test is to help determine if your failure is the blower motor or the controller. Since both are fairly pricey parts, you don't want to replace the wrong one. :)
 

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Cabin air filter looked good (PO was good about the service schedule) also no real difference in volume with or without fliter. Blower does respond to control-- more volume with more bars-- but full on is not very full on. I think I need to do the 'direct ground to blower motor' test of the controller described above. I assume I'l need to access the motor through the under hood area between the wipers? Or can I get to it under the dash while the glove box is out (for the filter check I just did)?
And thanks for the WIS explanantion-- guess I should have known that.;oops: I'll check eBay for it. What's a reasonable price for the CD?
Did you ever solve this problem? If so, was it the blower motor or the fan control? I have the exact same problem on my 2004 9-5.
 

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I have exactly the same issue. The controller pack and fan were replaced in 08 less than 20K ago. With the engine off I can hear the fan stepping with every press of fan speed button but air flow is really weak. No codes, cleaned out and replaced CAF. PLEASE post your solution, whoever comes up with one. This heat is murder and while the air is cold it is merely a whisper and I need it to HOWL!!!
 

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Consider that the fan operates nearly all the time in the ACC 9-5's. Fans need lubrication especially when subject to outside moisture. I've read of a few others having controllers go out after their fans started talking. Remove the fan motor when you hear any noise; lubricate both ends (teflon based Tri-Flow is my favorite) and spray wherever you can gain access to the motor shaft. Spin the motor and spray repeatedly. I've had motors only turn a quarter turn on removal spinning 2 complete revs after treatment. This is not a short term fix. Do it right and you'll gain years.
 

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I'll reply to my own post, now that I've solved the problem. Perhaps it will be useful to others. The symptoms of my 2004 9-5 were that I had essentially no airflow from the blower. If I increased the fan speed (pressing the button on the climate controls), nothing happened. Actually, before it totally stopped working I could hear the motor stepping up if everything was quiet, but just barely.

I tested the blower motor by running current (positive and negative) from the battery to the leads on the motor after removing the connector. You can probably accomplish the same thing by running just a ground from the battery to the metal part of the blower. Anyway, it ran fine. That seemed to indicate that the fan controller was bad.

I purchased an aftermarket controller for $180 from eeuroparts.com. As I read on this forum and elsewhere, it's a pain in the butt to replace. It took me 4 hours, though I could do it again in 2-3, I suppose. It now works like a charm.

Main lesson learned: Get a puller for the windshield wipers. I have no idea how people get them off without one. And get one that doesn't allow the arms to spread, or get a heavy-duty windshield wiper puller. I tried various pullers. I bent two cheap ones (and failed), and had success with better ones. But the one that worked best was a $40 truck wiper puller.
 

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Aero 9-5 2007 air distribution

Hello
my 2007 AERO 9-5 has a new issue with air distribution ,it vents only to the defroster and floor directions but never from the front/panel direction. the AC is good as well as the Fan.
could anybody command how to diagnose the cause and solve this issue .
thanks
Raz
 

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Model year 2006-2009



The stepping motors need no feedback to the control module (position sensor). By sending a known number of pulses, the control module always knows how far a flap has moved. This is possible on condition that the control module has calibrated itself by turning the flaps to their respective end positions so that it knows the position of the flaps.

Manual calibration can be performed by starting the motor and simultaneously pressing the AUTO and REC buttons.

Calibration is confirmed by SID and the message "ACC: CALIBR. STARTED" is shown on the main instrument unit display. This takes approximately 20 seconds.

Manual calibration must be performed if the stepping motor is replaced, removed or if the position of the flaps is changed. Calibration must also be performed when the battery has been disconnected.



An automatic calibration takes place: after 5 operating cycles and when the ignition has been off for more than 120 minutes. This takes place for the fifth time in the 119th minute before the ACC control module enters rest position.

Diagnostics
During calibration any diagnostic trouble codes for the flaps are stored in the ACC unit and can be read using the diagnostic tool.​
 

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come again when you've get the codes with a diagnosis tool ( must going to a workshop equipped with a performing tool ) Bosch, TECH II...
 

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Jumping in the thread as well. I had the same issue with my 2002 9-5 Aero. Low airflow from the cabin fan. It felt like it would only run at about half speed.

I ran the diagnostic of attaching a lead to the ground on the fan and the fan immediately increased speed. I ordered an OEM fan speed controller from Eeuroparts and installed. The cabin fan is back up to full power now.

The job itself isn't that bad. I started on all the interior disassembly before moving out to under the hood. Pay attention to all the small plastic connectors and wiring clips. It will save you the frustration of broken parts later. You'll want to make sure that you have a 6mm socket (or 1/4in can work in a pinch) for the small screws. You'll definitely want to take off the gas pedal. It's two 13mm bolts and it makes everything else under the driver's footwell a heckuva lot easier!

It's also worth having a vacuum on standby once you open up the plastic valence cover, there's usually a bunch of small leaves and twigs that's good to vacuum out.

I used a little anti-seize copper grease on the windshield wiper splines to keep the arms from seizing on the mounts in the future.
 

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Good point about removing the pedal. That didn't occur to me. If I did it again I might consider taking the seat out too.

My solution to changing the unit was splicing the replacement into the existing loom. The looms were different on the 2006> cars, but the lump is the same. I put this 2006 unit on my 2004 car and all is well.

The extract from the WIS may be of interest to others. This was my issue.

Regards - Doug
 

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My solution to changing the unit was splicing the replacement into the existing loom. The looms were different on the 2006> cars, but the lump is the same. I put this 2006 unit on my 2004 car and all is well.
So the actual blower motor controller is identical, but the "looms" are different. Does that mean that the wires are different, or that the connectors are different?

In any case, this is welcome news to me because that means a junkyard pull can come from a wider range of donors for my 2006.
 
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