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Discussion Starter #81
My enthusiasms been curbed with fixing it but im observing others findings. Had 2 cars that done it over span of years. Willingness low! I suspect failure inside ribbon cable.
 

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It doesn't appear to be any cable or interconnect.

I've separated the EDU from the rest of the cluster to isolate them mechanically.

I can readily reproduce the problem by giving the EDU a good rap with a screwdriver.

The fuel gauge flinches then goes to zero along with the coolant gauge.

When the connection is restored, the low fuel light comes on for a moment and the needles go to their proper positions.

Wiggling wires has no effect.
 

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Unfortunately the EDU gizmos do seem to time out .
As in Many die in use... as the years pass by.
Best advise would be to source a still working used one..
(Or find a decent Electro wizard to try and patch it.. Its a Japanese made item.. if that helps..Could also try the old Reflow the solder joints trick??)
and hope it continues to work during your ownership of the car.
 

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Reflowing the EDU connector with 60/40 and plenty of flux seems to have done the trick.

I can no longer reproduce the problem.

I'm going to call it fixed and button it back up.
 

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It doesn't appear to be any cable or interconnect.

I've separated the EDU from the rest of the cluster to isolate them mechanically.

I can readily reproduce the problem by giving the EDU a good rap with a screwdriver.

The fuel gauge flinches then goes to zero along with the coolant gauge.

When the connection is restored, the low fuel light comes on for a moment and the needles go to their proper positions.


Wiggling wires has no effect.
This is the symptom of the power (12v) dropping out -- leaving the EDU "thinking" the car is just started so it cycles the low-fuel light & check radiator light on, and then the gauges are back to normal...

I (kinda) hate to just run an independent hot lead to the EDM to see if that solves the problem -- it's too easy for me to say I don't see a back feed issue but...

One could try running a hot lead from the fuel pump (or other ignition switched circuit to the EDM, add a diode in the line so a "back feed" couldn't occur when turning the car off.

It may be time to start thinking about building my own gauge cluster. All I really want is speed, rpm, volts, temp, oil pressure, vac/boost, and fuel quantity. All the other bits I can do without. Just need a VSS signal to the ECU. Everything else would be better served with little round SVO gauges
that weren't blocked by the steering wheel... ;ol;
 

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I fixed this on mine by reflowing the solder joints on the EDU connector. Used to drop out regularly but has been good now for about a year. A lot of electrical glitches on these cars seem to be caused by bad solder joints. (Early lead-free solder?)
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Reflowing the EDU connector with 60/40 and plenty of flux seems to have done the trick.

I can no longer reproduce the problem.

I'm going to call it fixed and button it back up.
How in the world and what did you solder or reflow to fix this? I have EDU dissembled on my kitchen table and would like to know.
 

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I reflowed the through-hole connector on the EDU which connects it to the vehicle.

I wicked away the existing solder with a braid and flux and replaced with 60/40.
 
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