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Getting fan to operate

In your last line you mention a means to bypass the fan setup. Can you please explain this in greater detail? This is my first Saab and the motor was replace in the car and I think it was because of the fan not coming on as needed.

Beautiful, and thank you Sir!
Now I (think I) get it!

1) When the temp/fuel gauges completely drop out, ie: they are receiving NO voltage input.
what we failed to mention also was
that when this intermittent failure occurs it is then followed by the "check radiator fluid" on the edu screen. I surmise then that what has happened is a loss of INPUT power to the edu 210 (when the gauges reactivate, the check rad fluid & "low fuel light" is part of the "start-up sequence" for the edu receiving power. IF the edu is not receiving 12v, THEN it can't send a signal to the fan relays. That's a problem...

Okay -- this is progress (unless I'm misunderstanding the wiring diagrams) in that now we know it's an intermittent power input to the EDU 12v
Although Scantar and I both drive CSE models we both prefer the analog clocks of the CD so would be unable to see if other edu outputs also all failed at the same time.
My intermittent temp/fuel power loss failure started after I'd done other work behind the dash cluster so I assumed it was my ribbon connection -- that was several years ago. And then it stopped happening so I figured I had a good connection again... but this past summer it started up again.

It would now seem to me that my OTHER intermittent temp/gas gauge failure where both gauges read high (accompanied by my voltage GAUGE reading low -- actual alternator output is fine) is an entirely separate failure issue -- although obviously still linked to the edu 210...

Chengny -- what I couldn't determine from your (alldata?) diagrams was from where the edu receives its 12v input? I'm guessing from the ECU but that's a dangerous assumption when dealing with SAAB...

So I guess while the gauge cluster/edu is out (or in my case -- before I bother to install my spare one) I can play with voltage inputs to the edu and measure what I'm getting on the gauge cluster. I can certainly check continuity between the connections but w/out a sillyscope (oscilloscope) one is really reduced to "swap-shooting" and hoping for the best...
I certainly have little faith in ordering a cluster/edu off ebay... One thing IS for sure -- the solder and connecting ribbons are fragile with age -- I would not really expect such a part to survive shipping...

Scantar (and everybody else) There is an easy fix for the power to the fans though. At this point we all have replacement radiators -- they all have the plug for the early MY 9K's that took a thermostatic switch to power the fans. Simply wire your fan through that as a back up.
 

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Gauge cluster dropping readings

Hello,
As I am new to Saab, I am finding this car different than most cars I have owned and worked on. The car had sat for 4 years until we had it moved up here. I got the car running. I replaced the gas tank, replaced the air filter, replaced the spark plugs and cleaned out 4 years of leaves and grass.

I am trying to get this car n the road and things have been going well. But, I have noticed that the gauges are not operating and the lights on the dash do not even come on now. The car starts and runs with the only thing working is the turbo booster gauge. Even the tach and speedo do not work.

It seems that the dash is one of the issues and the other is the EDU? Is this the ECM on other cars which is located on the drivers side, under the cover, next to the windshield in the engine compartment?

Can a new EDU be had? How about a dash? I know that the alternator is charging well.

Any help would be appreciated. We do have a couple of Saab specialists in the Raleigh area, should I send the car to them?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Take dash cap off And clean all the connectors w contact cleaner on the back of the instrument cluster/panel and this problem will go away In my experience. It was a long and sordid one.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Your problem is more than what mine was just for the temperature gage and fuel gauge not working check fuses first the EDU is replaceable you need to do as I described to get to it anyhow. ninety ninety four to ninety ninety eight are compatible with each other the only difference being one is for an automatic transmission and the one is for a manual
 

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To clarify,

"It seems that the dash is one of the issues and the other is the EDU? Is this the ECM on other cars which is located on the drivers side, under the cover, next to the windshield in the engine compartment?"

The EDU is a unit attached to the bottom of the instrument cluster. It contains the pictogram lights display and gear position/fuel consumption etc.

The ECU lives, as you say, under the "aquarium cover" as we call it, ahead of the bulkhead.

You will have discovered by now that the reason the boost gauge works is that its not electronic!

Keep us posted.

Doug
 

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Gauges dropping out today. Main beam indicator light still works as does the pictogram when both temp and fuel gauge don't.
What would happen if an EDU from a manual car was fitted to an auto or vice-versa?
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Gauges dropping out today. Main beam indicator light still works as does the pictogram when both temp and fuel gauge don't.
What would happen if an EDU from a manual car was fitted to an auto or vice-versa?
automatic and manual have different criterion for the illuminations on the display, like automatic shows PRND321 for example and a manual would not, has the MPG instead or whatever, they're different is bottom line, its why I said you use the one specific to the transmission to your car. far as I know you need to use 1995-1998 EDU, though I don't know what year your car is as it's not in your avitar, 95-98 is where I have experienced the issue, the extent of my experience with it, there's 2 variants, manual and automatic EDU choose from years I described.

You're likely doomed with this issue though. Ive chased it endlessly with 2 9000s I have and it doesn't seem curable. Only if you directly power it with 12v seems to be a solution. I haven't climbed into that wormhole yet.
 

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This is a post from uksaabs.
"recently I was observing randomly the fuel level and the engine temp would just drop out, low water level warning would come on, then after maybe 30sec / min - the gauges would pop back up but not always to the correct position ( a bit of a pain ref: the fuel gauge) it would do this at random intervals - - the fix was - the 40amp fuse for the cooling fan had blown - - is this a weird and wonderfull SAAB signal of this failure ?"

I have a 1997 2.3 auto and 3 1997 2.3 manuals and 1 1995 2.0 auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
This is a post from uksaabs.
"recently I was observing randomly the fuel level and the engine temp would just drop out, low water level warning would come on, then after maybe 30sec / min - the gauges would pop back up but not always to the correct position ( a bit of a pain ref: the fuel gauge) it would do this at random intervals - - the fix was - the 40amp fuse for the cooling fan had blown - - is this a weird and wonderfull SAAB signal of this failure ?"

I have a 1997 2.3 auto and 3 1997 2.3 manuals and 1 1995 2.0 auto.
You don't have one of those in line fuses on your 1997. Cooling fan changed in 1994, was the final year they did that, maaaaybee, 1995. Definitely not 1997. This is not your cure.

You could verify this buy looking online and seeing the different cooling fans between those 2 years. Esaabparts is good site to do that on.

There is also probably nothing wrong with your EDU, btw, probably a bad ground somewhere. Ive been on this struggle for 2 years with various 9Ks

I almost thought I had it fixed this last time. Like I said, I may look at diagram and figure out how to give it separate 12v power. It's losing power, or it's losing ground, more likely the latter. tried cleaning all contact throughly behind cluster. Might sand the rest of grounds on car. I believe there is about 10 plus ground points on a 9K off top of my head.
 

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So, I was wondering if you need to ground the metal dash to the metal structure? And where would you attach 12 volt supply to the back of the dash?
 

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Okay, so I charged the battery yesterday. I came home last night and removed the charger. I went out this morning and connected the terminals up and went in to start the car, nothing. Now, this is where it gets REALLY interesting. I plugged in the OBD II reader and let the system boot up. The ignition was on and when the system completed the loading process....BANG...everything came on. So, I turned the ignition and and the car started right up and ran well with dash working perfectly. Just like normal. Now, I turned the key off and turned the ignition back on......nothing. So I am trying to recreate the scenario again.
It seems that when I plugged in the OBD it bypassed something in the ECM and got everything working. But it took having the terminals removed from the battery for a period of time.
Your thoughts......
I think the ECM is going bad in my opinion because when the car was operational, everything worked perfect, including the dash components and gauges.
 

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Well, after removing the steering column and then the ignition switch, I used contact cleaner to help the contacts and then reconnected the switch, it started and ran well. Even the fan comes on on the radiator. Amazing, as the ignition switch is not the first thing that comes to mind and yet, yesterday I started considering the switch. Should have gone with my instincts on this.

Thank you for everyone's help on this situation. Am going to go shop for a switch until then, I can go on to the A/C system and see if I can recharge the system. Need it here in NC with the heat and humidity.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I tweaked with the EDU cables and connector when I had the fault and it worked. I rerouted the the Cables from the connector so they don't get pintch to the vent.channel. (and hopefully it will work).
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t4255JKom8Q/XTa2w8KJCxI/AAAAAAAABe0/o0_rnbmKFZMsO9mYv8xyJGrl_RiAOnRhQCLcBGAs/s1600/EDUconnector.jpg


Next thing to do is to resolder the EDU Power connectors in the EDU.
Maybe there are old and cracked.
As author of OG thread, I was talking about temp and fuel dropping simply to clarify as some other stuff popped in thread. I have 2 cars do this. Has nothing to do with ignition switch. Didn't want things confused. (I put a new ignition switch in for fun of it out of my stock and didn't change anything, had heard a rumor it might be associated). At one time I thought it might be a ground issue with headlight switch as well as that tied into ignition switch, doesn't have anything to do with that either from my findings.

Hardwiring the fan is great idea via Banman, however I don't believe that will stop the AC from turning off which is also what happens when T and F drop.

Ive swapped out multiple EDUs. My belief is it has not to do with any of the EDU's. They're all doing what they're supposed to.

Ive gotten this problem to disappear after thinking I fixed it with other EDU's put in place. Ive driven with the dash cap off for weeks. The irritating problem is that I can't not FORCE the phenomena of the gauge dropping. I attempt to do this by rattling the connectors while the car is on with dash cap on. It just does it on it own after a jarring bump. Other irritation is that when the gauges do drop I can't seem to get them to come back up by jostling the connectors. Only hitting another hard bump in the road does it, or hammering my fist on dash board with my fist when dash cap is on. The side I hit it on is the the right (LHD), just about above the cluster.

I still haven't associated a permanent fix. I have a suspicion it is the ribbon cable on the right. I have over 10 plus cars that are on road and haven't been able to dedicate the time to this retarded failure. I instead put my 9Ks in storage because it wore me out fiddling with it.

I'll continue to be interested in anyone thoughts on fixing the matter. Hardwire is the only way I can deduce to fix it, though haven't done the research on how to do that. Seems more complex then hardwiring a instrument bulb on a C900 for example. How do you hardwire a ribbon cable? The one on the right vertical side of cluster I believe is the perpetrator.
 

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SNIP...

I still haven't associated a permanent fix. I have a suspicion it is the ribbon cable on the right. I have over 10 plus cars that are on road and haven't been able to dedicate the time to this retarded failure. I instead put my 9Ks in storage because it wore me out fiddling with it.

I'll continue to be interested in anyone thoughts on fixing the matter. Hardwire is the only way I can deduce to fix it, though haven't done the research on how to do that. Seems more complex then hardwiring a instrument bulb on a C900 for example. How do you hardwire a ribbon cable? The one on the right vertical side of cluster I believe is the perpetrator.
So build a wiring harness to replace the ribbon connector?
I'll look at my spare cluster and think about how I'd do that...

I've also noticed that my installed EDU (which is playing up a bit...) the plug where the ribbon connector snaps in -- that bit of the pc board wobbles a wee bit compared to feeling for any play on my spare, which has no wobble at all...
 

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I pulled out my cluster today. I see the same issue where temp and fuel gauges go to zero and the A/C stops.

I tinned the mating surfaces on the two flex circuits and coated them in dielectric grease. Time will tell if it works.
 
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