[hunterstein555]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injec...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Anyone have any experience with an aftermarket IAC valve? $30 seems like a normal price for a simple electronic valve

I haven't found anyone mention anything about any aftermarket IAC valves on here, only cleaning them. I'm pretty sure mine's toast, and didn't want to spend $250 on a OEM one or find a used one

Anyone have any input?

 

[Jeremy R.]

I bought one and promptly returned it. I got a few miles down the road before the car would barely idle, and I had to disconnect the valve's electrical plug and drive the car home with it that way. The Bosch valve is ridiculously expensive, but I don't trust the aftermarket ones after my experience. Have you tried cleaning yours? I got quite a bit more life out of my original after cleaning it.

 

[jvanabra]

My experience with aftermarket engine management components has been poor across the board. Even with commodity cars like my old Suburban, the OE GM/Delco stuff invariably works better and lasts longer than aftermarket stuff.


I would personally try to find a good used one, at least for testing purposes. IME, the valves tend to be reliable and last.

 

[hunterstein555]

Ahh okay, I figured that if they actually worked there'd be some info about it on here. I won't buy it then

I'll take mine off the car again and give it a better cleaning, but I don't think it had been given a clean in it's whole life, which was why I looked at buying a new one.

Anyone know how 'delicate' it is, as in, can I use a ton of penetrant, steam, and compressed air? The first time I sprayed just a tiny bit of WD40 thinking I was supposed to be careful

 

[jvanabra]

I don't think I have cleaned one, ever. Is yours visibly dirty? What are the symptoms of the problem?

 

[Jeremy R.]

They're easy to clean, and they're pretty tough. Spray a bunch of carburetor cleaner in the holes, shake it up, and drain it out.

 

[hunterstein555]

I don't think I have cleaned one, ever. Is yours visibly dirty? What are the symptoms of the problem?

I've heard it's recommended every 30k miles

When I come to a stop, the car idles and shakes at like 400 RPM, then fixes itself after like 5 seconds. Since cleaning it, it only does this occasionally, maybe one time per ride

 

[jvanabra]

That sounds like a mixture problem to me - vacuum leak or goofy O2 sensor, maybe a dirty throttle body blocking air flow. Certainly could be a lazy IAC, but IME probably not. If you've looked at everything else, I'd really consider a junkyard part to see what happens before investing real money in a new one

 

[hunterstein555]

That sounds like a mixture problem to me - vacuum leak or goofy O2 sensor, maybe a dirty throttle body blocking air flow. Certainly could be a lazy IAC, but IME probably not. If you've looked at everything else, I'd really consider a junkyard part to see what happens before investing real money in a new one

It seemed pretty convincing that lubricating it a little bit fixed the problem a little bit. I'm thinking now if I just give it a better cleaning it should be fine. But anyways, the point of this thread was I was ready to throw $30 down for just a brand new one

For the record already had all new vacuum lines, new plugs, new dic, new o2 sensors & exhaust, etc. so this is just the final touch up on the car to get it running smooth

 

[Jeremy R.]

I've had a wonky idle before of a sticking IAC valve. I lucked into finding an Amazon Warehouse deal for the genuine Bosch valve. It was something like $60, which I could justify spending since one from Pick n Pull worked better, but still not perfectly. The car's idled very well since installing the new Bosch part.

 

[Boxer-Moto]

They're easy to clean, and they're pretty tough. Spray a bunch of carburetor cleaner in the holes, shake it up, and drain it out.

You can use a Q-tip to scrub a bit. Follow the cleaning with some lube. I use engine oil. Apply liberally and wipe away excess.

 

[hunterstein555]

So I actually clicked Buy on the aftermarket valve and cancelled it after reading these replies but apparently it had already shipped (in 2 hours?) so now I have it. I can return it for like $4 return shipping but anyone else think I should at least lube it with WD40 and try it?

 

[Boxer-Moto]

So I actually clicked Buy on the aftermarket valve and cancelled it after reading these replies but apparently it had already shipped (in 2 hours?) so now I have it. I can return it for like $4 return shipping but anyone else think I should at least lube it with WD40 and try it?

NO. Do NOT use WD-40 to lube it. WD-40 is a cleaner, water disperser, etc...but it is not a lube and it leaves deposits when dry. It will gum up an IAC very quickly.

If you want something in a spray can...CRC makes a product called Power Lube that is pretty good. I simply use the same synthetic motor oil that I use in the sump.

The most important part is to use it liberally, but to clean up the majority prior to re-installation.

 

[jvanabra]

100% agreed. WD40 has little to no use on a car IMHO... it leaves a sticky mess behind that will tend to attract & retain debris and make things worse over time.

 

[hunterstein555]

Ahh yes. Sometimes I forget the simple stuff

So I might try and use it then after lubing it (properly) just to see if it works and I’ll keep the proper/somewhat faulty one in the car