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Discussion Starter #1
OK, fuel filter was WAY overdue for replacement. Installed a new one, making sure the direction of flow was correct...

Now car wont start. Does the system have to be primed? Or just leave the key on for a period of time for the fuel pump to fill system?

Dead in driveway and only car - so any help would be appreciated!;oops:
 

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priming normally takes 30 seconds... with a new filter to fill, maybe a minute?

I've never heard of a filter being blocked, but I suppose it's possible.

If you turn the key on, can you hear the pump spin up?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can hear pump spinning up. Fuel just isn't getting to the fuel rack. Good idea to try old filter and see what happens. It tries to start every now and then - but just not enough to catch! Grrr
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Crack the banjo on the rail side of the filter if you have a spray of fuel then the filter isn't blocked.
What do you mean by "the banjo on the rail side of the deck"... I presume this is the banjo nut on discharge side of filter?

I'll check that in am. I am 99.99% sure I installed this with the correct orientation. I installed it the same way the old original filter was installed (19mm Banjo facing the left side of car and 17mm banjo facing right side of car. Used the new copper washers as well.

I even pulled the fuse for the fuel pump to see if the rails would try to prime to the injectors once replaced.

Simple job turned sour - but I'm determined. Thanks everyone for the input.
 

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Like you just posted, the banjo bolts are different sizes so you couldn't have installed it wrong. The input fitting is larger than the output fitting... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ron - indeed, was just remembering the left side banjo bolt is larger. Thank you for confirming that. The only other thing I did was remove what I think was the turbo bypass valve. I attached a pic of it. I'm pretty sure I put it back in right glow direction after spraying some carb cleaner in it and drying it out. Is this the turbo bypass valve, don't think it's the MAF...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another pic of same unit. This unit does make a humming noise with ignition in the on position. Located (looking in from front of car) it's to the left if radiator near top of the compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I took this part out too and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I made sure to put it back in same flow direction. Would cleaning/spraying it cause an issue??
 

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That would be the Air Idle Control valve. That could cause the car to run badly and possibly stall out (I had a NA 900 that one of the hoses blew off the valve (they aren't clamped on like the turbo models) when washing the engine bay, with the hose off the car would barely run at idle). But if your car isn't firing up at all, I doubt that is your problem.
Have you tried some fuel/starter fluid in the throttle body. Do the basic things like check for spark and fuel, then go from there, check all the fuses, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Haven't tried to do anything else besides researching. Want to try the old filter, but snowing hard here in Maine! Grrrr

I did notice that when I removed the AIC valve that the connector clip that hold the harness and assembly into the electrical side of the AIC broke (can't lock it into place. I do have it pushed all the way in. But it has no way to lock anymore.

I've been researching all kinds of distributors for the connector assembly (even EBAY) and cannot find one. Maybe somebody knows the part number or where to find one? Going to call a few grave yards Monday.

I did get it to fire up using starting fluid (took the two bolts off that hold the throttle body "tube" on (AIC) connects to the assembly below it - I may be calling it the wrong thing - but it started briefly with the starting fluid. So I know I have spark. Just no fuel.
 

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If you have a fuel issue I would see if you have fuel flow through the new filter, if not then swap in the old filter. There should me a metal clip on the AIC connector that you push down to remove it, it will pop up when locked in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There should me a metal clip on the AIC connector that you push down to remove it, it will pop up when locked in place.
Jake - my first plan, after snow stops tomorrow, is to loosen the outlet side of the filter to see if fuel sprays out. If not I'll put the old filter back I. And see what that's does.

As far as the AIC - the clip side of the connector (bottom half) broke when I tried to remove it. I am familiar with these types of connectors, but it was very weathered and it was very cold outside - both attributing to it breaking. Pretty sure it is still seating properly - but def need to replace it.

I cannot express to you enough the thanks for helping me! Greg
 

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Do the filter replacement; the new may be a bummer...a problem with many after-market parts.
As I remember, the '96 started right up after the filter replacement...the re-pressurizing was nearly instantaneous....I had de-pressurized the fuel lines in order to change the filter without putting up with spray and fuel loss,,
If the filter is OK, I suspect the fuel pump.
Do check your battery, these cars are demanding in this area..
13 v prior to start up
11 v during start up(cranking)
14 v at an idle
HF meter
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you earthworm. I will check the battery with tester. I did have a 50amp cranking charger hooked up and engine was cranking well. I did order a different filter from eeuroparts last night as well as the crankshaft position sensor and charcoal filter.

Fuel pump? A possibility I suppose, but worked fine prior to changing filter out. I changed the filter due to spitting and sputtering at idle and initial rooms going down road. I have researched this as there is soooo many posts about this subject! Going through everything. Have purge valve from eeuroparts already and will throw that in once I get the engine started. Don't want to confuse the issue at hand. :)
 
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