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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure where to post this but please help if you can!

My car just decided to stop working. It turns over and tries to start but it will not. I replaced the fuel pump September 2013. When I turn the car to the on position I cannot hear the fuel pump work. When I turn the car over and try to start it the fuel pump makes a weird clicking noise and then a clank noise and the car will not start.

I have been told that I if I can locate the fuel pressure valve I can take it off and try to start the car and if fuel shoots out it's not my fuel pump again. Problem is I cannot find this so called valve. I have been able to find fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator hose. I have been looking on the drivers side of the fuel rail. I'm not even sure what this valve looks like.

Please help me!!! I'm sad with out my car!
 

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You will need a special tool to disconnect the connections at the fuel rail. It's Saab part #8394702. I don't know if Advance or AutoZone would have anything similar... Ron
 

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The fuel pump relay closes at two different times:
1. When you initially turn the ignition to on, it will close to allow the pump to prime for a few seconds.
2. Whenever the CPS sees the engine rotating faster than about 50RPM the ECU will also close the relay.

If it is only doing the first then it could be the CPS, note that it can be hard to hear the pump run when trying to start the car with all the other noise, also note just because you hear the pump run doesn't mean it is good and pumping fuel (the internal hose can come apart inside the assembly, resulting in a running pump but no flow of fuel).

I doubt the relay is the issue, rarely do they ever go bad and if the pump is priming then the relay would have to be working for that.

Lets take this back to basics, have you tried some starter fluid, if all you are missing is fuel (i.e. a bad fuel pump) then the car will start and run for a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A mechanic listened to it over the phone and thinks it is something with the timing :( I'll let you know. Thanks for your help! Hopefully it will be minor.
 

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Destini:

Is the clickity clack sound from the engine compartment or from the rear of the car. The fuel pump is under the back seat.
 

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A mechanic listened to it over the phone and thinks it is something with the timing :( I'll let you know. Thanks for your help! Hopefully it will be minor.
I can't even hear my fuel pump running when I'm sitting in the car.

If the mechanic thinks there's a timing problem, then he might mean a timing chain problem, like the cams jumped on the timing chain. A better explanation from the mechanic would be helpful.

Since you have s 900s, does this car have a distributor? It would have wires from the distributor running into the flat panel on top of the engine and a round coil.

It's not a V-6 is it?... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The sound is most certainly coming from the fuel pump. I had the back seat taken off and was standing in the back with my face as close as possible to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It is a 4 cylinder. I have checked all the connections from the distributor all are tight.
Not really sure what to do at this point :(
 

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Can you create a sound file and upload it to Youtube?

How about one of the engine from in the engine compartment, and one of the fuel pump from the rear seat area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update:

So I've replaced the fuel filter and the CPS in the car and guess what?! NOTHING!

This car is the biggest POS ever!

Dumped fuel in the top and no firing!

Opened the distributor and apparently there is oil in it! WTF does that even mean?

Please help if you can! I'm literally about to set the damn thing on fire!:evil:
 

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The oil in the distributor is likely a bad seal which is letting engine oil in. You can rebuild the distributor and replace the seal or you could find one used and replace the whole unit.

If there is a significant amount of oil in there, it would not be surprising that it would be causing issues with getting a spark at the plugs.
 

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Because it's a non-turbo, all you need to do is disconnect the lead from the coil to the distributor at the distributor end and see if you're getting spark there. You would put a piece of metal into the distributor end and hold the whole thing a very short distance from the block.

Oil in the distributor isn't a good thing, but these engines will run okay with at least a little oil in there. The inside of the cap should be clean and perfectly smooth up where the plug terminals are. If it's carboned up or has "tracks", then the cap is shot and needs to be replaced.

A clean junkyard distributor is a cheap solution to a leaky o-ring.

Does your Check Engine light come on when you first start the car? Does it go out a bit after starting?
 
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