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That pesky abs pump is like $1000 -- so it's good to know it's working!

If you can start the engine with a shot of either your anti-theft module is not currently at fault.
I would get the fuel pump rebuilt/replaced first. Then you should be starting/running fine. Then if you want to, remove the anti-theft but I strongly caution against taking more things apart on a non-running car -- it can make troubleshooting a lot more difficult...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well it ran on ether but when I turn the key on I don't get voltage to the fuel pump to pressurize the lines. I had no problem hot-wiring the pump to get the rusty water out before I removed the module. Gotta be something in the middle.
 

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Well it ran on ether but when I turn the key on I don't get voltage to the fuel pump to pressurize the lines. I had no problem hot-wiring the pump to get the rusty water out before I removed the module. Gotta be something in the middle.
#10 2 days ago
Narsty!
Easiest way to check a fuel pump is to jumper the brake light circuit to the fuel pump circuit at the fuse panel.
If the ECU doesn't sense the engine is turning, power is cut to the fuel pump relay -- safety feature.
The fuel pump will energize for a few seconds on startup sequence to pressurize the fuel rail, then shut back off.

Reactions:Ryengoth

And rusty water could short out the pump,
I would disconnect the FI line off at the fuel rail and fuel pump and blow the lines out.
Water does not compress -- it'd be a shame to crack the block or bend the rods...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yup, that's the plan. Since the pump never turned on I don't suspect there is anything in the fuel lines. The fuel pump runs fine, even covered in rust but the bushings are bubble gum now. Pumped all of the nasty stuff out of the basket but the basket filter was clogged so it would not pump the old fuel out of the tank itself. I still have to drain and wipe down the tank interior.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The fuse jumper worked. I have no ground on the relay coil pin, but power is available on both the coil and source side of the relay contacts. It ran until the line popped off the pump in the basket and the regulator shut off flow causing the check valve to spray fuel. Used module in-hand but I may not be able to get back over there until next saturday. Does the plastic plate with the check valve clips unscrew from the top? One was not included with the used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So, the display unit on the dash (not the cluster), the door locks and sun roof do not work. Climate control and radio work fine. Are those tied to the anti-theft module preventing them from working maybe? I have power on the fuel pump relay but no ground. From what wiring diagrams I could find it appears that the ground could be coming from the anti-theft module but I couldn't find one looking up from the fuse panel area. Do I need to pull the dash to see it back behind the air bag?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
What module does the alldata wiring diagram note as "200"? The violet wire going to "200" is not providing ground to the pump relay coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So based on what I've searched and found "200" is for the LH-Jetronic. The PCM diagram on alldatadiy shows the Trionic instead. There is no wiring information for the LH-Jetronic. I'm still trying to find correct electrical diagrams for this non-turbo model and it's been very difficult. I still don't know why the ECU is not sending ground to the fuel pump relay and I'm not any closer to fixing it at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The circuit works now with a functional relay in the right socket. :rolleyes:
During cranking is the only time it primes for the LH 2.4 Jetronic. Runs fine now. I just managed to wipe out all of the lights except the reverse lights in the process of jumping things. :confused:
 
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