SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently bought a 9000cs turbo that won't start, turns and turns but dosent catch. Mechanic, (Not a saab guy) Can't figure out whats wrong, assumes the ecu, the direct injection has been changed recently, as well as the coil pack. He claims its only firing in one cylinder, anybody heard of anything like that happening?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,938 Posts
No direct injection. Direct ignition which is different from direct injection (which is fuel injection directly ino the combustion chambers and is much more recent technology than the 9000has). .

New "coil packs" means a new Direct Ignition (DI) cassette has already been installed.

And no, firing only one cylinder is pretty much impossible. The DI cassette has been replaced so that is unlikely to be the problem. The more usual mode of failure of the DI cassette is steady deterioration of ignition performance. Unlike other systems with individual coilpacks the DI feeds all four spark plugs from one unit.

Most obvious likely problem is fuel pump failure. Is the engine getting any fuel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What is the procedure for testing the DI Cassette, Take the bolts off and leave the clip on, then do i put a plug into each slot of it and crank it while pointing it at the neg. terminal of the battery? Want to make sure its not his thing before moving on to fuel pump, how do i tell if the engine is getting fuel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,026 Posts
You can pull the cassette, put plugs in the coils, somehow (with 4 clips or by wrapping the wire) run a jumper from the plug bodies to ground.

The coils and plugs should be in their normal plane (i.e. pointing down). IMPORTANT: The ignition discharge module must be positioned with the ignition coils facing down during the test so that the transformer oil will provide good insulation in the high-voltage part of the ignition coils.

Should look like this:


You don't have an ISAT so you'll have to crank the engine and visually confirm presence and intensity of an arc across the electrodes.


Before you do all that (since the DIC has been changed with a presumably good unit) take a good look at the condition of the primary wiring. The ends of that harness group where they go into the plug take a beating. There is only one common ground wire for all 4 coils - at pin 6 on the connector. If it is broken... no sparks.





To check for fuel at the rail (residual pressure should be sufficient to eliminate fuel pump/relay malfunction) it isn't necessary to crank the engine. Just turn the key to the on position and the pump should run for 2 seconds. Then quickly, before the pressure has a chance to bleed, crack plug at the fuel pressure test port. You should get a squirt of gas through the threads:



These are only suggestions, there probably are better ways of checking for both spark and fuel that I don't know.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top