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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,


A few days ago I posted because my newly aquired 92 900s had a "unsolid" feel at the sterring wheel while passing over rough roads.

I replaced the tie rods yeasterday, checked the shocks and tire pressure but the car still doesnt feel solid. Theres a little play at the steering still and I swear it just doesnt seem right.

Any other recomends as to what this might be? Could the steering rack need tightening?

Thanks,

Greg
 

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There are the Balljoints, top and bottom, the Inner tie rod ends and the Uj's in the steering shaft to check. Don't tighten the rack, it's rarely necessary.and difficult to get 'right'.
 

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when you replaced the tie rod ends, you got it aligned afterward, right? that's very important, even when if you think you were right on, it was probably still a bit off.
 

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If the rack is the problem you should be able to feel it through the wheels when the car is jacked up. Give them a wiggle.
 

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one of my ball joins is bad at the bottom of my left front wheel, as a result i get knocking sounds when i go over bumps or take hard right turns.

This would also wear your tyres out faster, the ball joint is a cheap part but replacing it takes a bit of time and effort.

Nothing to worry about really.
 

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uhmm.... i had an unsolid feel a the steering wheel and it appeared that the bolts holding the steering column where not as tight as they should be....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HI,


Thanks for the help guys.

Ok so the tie rods were replaced I know cause after the mechanic did the work some Seattle ******* let loose the air in my front tire and they were indeed new.

So its either the ball joint or "perhaps" a loose sterring column.

The car did have extensive work done to it accroding to my mechanic who sold it to me. Aside from that it runs like a greyhound!

How much do you think replacing the balljoint will cost?

Greg
 

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betawave said:
How much do you think replacing the balljoint will cost?
Let's Assume replacing all 4 ball-joints.

Labor 3 hours? at mechanics rate: $50 x 3 hours = $150
Genuine Saab parts $35 x 4 balljoint kits x 15% markup = $161

Total at least $311 before sales tax and misc. shop items. I'd expect more like $400-$450.

or, do it yourself for only $140 with genuine Saab parts or $52 with generic (Search this forum for discussion on the quality of parts).

This is where I got the part prices . . .
http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults.aspx?&carid=1033&cat=1033
 

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Did you do both outer AND inner tie rods?

I had a bad inner tie rod that had the same "feel" as you describe. One of my inner tie rods was bad. Replaced it and all is good.

On my other '87 one of my lower ball joints was bad so I replaced it last night. One of the bolts was rusted/frozen/welded solid in the joint itself. I ended up taking the whole lower A arm off so I could get at the bolt with a sawzall. I hope to never experience those frustrations again.....
 

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Look for those cross arm on the rear axel aswell. The rubber insiden the holes get tired, and you car will swing all over the road!
 

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betawave said:
A few days ago I posted because my newly aquired 92 900s had a "unsolid" feel at the sterring wheel while passing over rough roads.
I had to replace my steering rack because there was play it. (it was there when i bought the car, and got a lot worse over the first couple of months i drove it)

With it off the car it was obvious - you could turn the input shaft and there was a bit of play before it picked up and the ends of rack actually started moving. It sounds like yours has worn in the same way.

It made my car pretty unpleasant to drive - like you describe. The steering wheel would constantly be moving when driving along, and it felt like you had to correct it all the time, and bumps were horrible.
 
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