[jmcgee_jr]

I read through so many articles about my wife's SAAB. IE the changing on fan resistor, change of thermo and switch etc etc.

So what I did for a while was I unplugged the left fan and plugged it into the fog light switch plug and just manually controlled it (which worked because of the usual short commutes and relatively cool temps in Seattle). However, we have been needing to drive it in heavier traffic and hotter weather in Seattle and I finally got around to working on it.

I changed the thermo and the thermo switch to a 80C one from the stock 92 that was in there I believe. I flushed the system, which ran very smoothly I may add.

My problem is this, after doing all of this once the car gets warm (only shows about 1/2 below halfway now so thermo must be opening sooner) but anyway, i see smoke/steam coming from near the thermostat and the thermo switch housing (it did this before I did my changes as well). If I kick on the fan manually it must cool it down enough because it stops doing that.

So obviously the thermo and the thermo switch are working better as the gauge says it's cooler but it's still not perfect.

Also, I think there is a seperate thermo switch on the top line that goes from the radiator to the thermostat is that correct? It's inline with the tubing. I have tried shorting the wires out on it like you can do with the one in the radiator which kicks on the first fan. This one does nothing?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[crwchf01]

I believe the switch on the radiator hose is for the AC system. You need to check for leakage at the thermostat seal, and where the thermostat assembly mates to the head. Your steams disappearing when the fan kicks on is due to air circulation, not due to cooling of the fluid.

 

[jmcgee_jr]

Well considering the AC has never worked in it that would explain that one.

I would think the steam would still be there even with the fan on because the air from the left fan doesnt actually reach the thermostat. Plus it stops coming out from where the thermo switch is too which is not in air flow area. But what do I know? I am just a Sys Engineer, I would rather work on computers but too cheap to pay for anything that I can do myself.

 

[crwchf01]

I'll forgive you being a System Engineer. Have you done the steam check with the hood open? I have an intermittent steam issue with my 83 turbo, but I am also aware it probably has something to do with all the RTV around the thermostat and it's mounting block to the head. Have you inspected for pinhole leaks in the core? Or any of the connections? Need a good strong flashlight and inspection mirror for that.

 

[jmcgee_jr]

Yeah I can only see it with the hood open, it's not much it's very faint like wisps. No RTV for me on this system.

 

[crwchf01]

You don't happen to park anywhere where the car gets hit with a sprinkler system do you?

 

[jmcgee_jr]

You don't happen to park anywhere where the car gets hit with a sprinkler system do you?

No but this is Seattle , actually the car is in the garage.

 

[crwchf01]

Might want to look for evidence of leakage on the top trough of the core. Would probably be no more than a small bit of white deposit by any leakage point.

 

[Rob22315]

If your right side fan isn't coming on before the needle gets up 1/2 way, then you have other problems besides the leak. With the lower temp thermostat and switch, your main cooling fan should be coming on about 1/3 of the way up.

You need to fix the leak first, then troubleshoot the main cooling fan. Check fuze 25 then try shorting out the wires on fan switch on the driver's side of the radiator. This should start the passenger side (main) cooling fan if the fuze isn't blown.

 

[mmoe]

If the steam is coming from the area near the thermostat housing, I'd suggest that you check the elbow hose just below the distributor. It runs off of the cylinder head and onto a metal tube which goes back under the intake manifold. This hose OFTEN starts leaking and I find it to be a frequent trouble spot on all 16 valve 900s (at least in this area, don't know in other climates).

Also, be sure that you have a 3 stage theromstat or your cooling system will not function properly. Many aftermarket thermostats are 2 stage and it doesn't direct the coolant to the correct places. It should also be noted that the thermostat will not help keep your operating temperatures lower. While the engine is producing enough heat to require additional cooling, the only thing that controls this is the cooling fan/radiator. A lower temp thermostat only changes the MINIMUM operating temp, which in the case of a Saab isn't necessarily better if lower. The original 89 deg thermostat keeps the engine at a minimum temperature that may produce better combustion, since engine temperature is a factor in combustion. If it were me, I'd change back to a standard Saab 3 stage 89 deg thermostat and then fix the cooling fan operation, particularly the passenger side auxilary fan which does the most work in cooling the engine during stop and go traffic.