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Discussion Starter #1
Like the title says the starter is not spinning. I have not started it for a little over a year. I put in a new battery and when I turn the key I get no response from the solenoid or the starter. Not even a click. I hear the fuel pump going briefly, the lights, windows, etc. all work. While turning the key to the start position some of the lights on the dash go out, which I think was normal, but don't remember for sure. They come back on as soon as the key is moved back to the run position. I have tapped on the starter with a hammer, but still nothing.

What next? With the battery having been out for over a year, is there some magic sequence to bring it back to life. I know newer models have an alarm cutoff, but I don't think this one does. It's a '93 900S convertible.
 

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Double check that you have full voltage at the starter. After that, hit it harder. A year's worth of sticky may take some dislodging.
 

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You can use a switched 14 gauge wire to connect battery positive to the solenoid terminal to see if it's the starter or solenoid or switch. Obviously, be sure the car is in neutral before trying this!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, I'm getting 12+ volts at the starter. I'll try jumping the solenoid and starter sometime this weekend.

After sitting so long, is it the starter or solenoid that freezes up and needs a good whack? I always figured it was the starter and thus expected to have some noise from the solenoid when turning the key to start. Even just a click. If I can get in the shop this weekend, I'll report back what I find.
 

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I guess the answer is starter - the solenoid is an electromechanical switch. But you really shouldn't hit a starter. That really will damage it.
 

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is the car 5 Spd? Have you tried pushing the car in neutral and jumping in and throw in first and pop clutch while starting?
I have an 8V that has crummy grounds and will not start in winter less I push as described above but in summer starts just fine.
It is barely worth fixing or looking into.
Batteries are a use it or lose it proposition. The only way to appropriately confirm this is with a load tester. OR go to Walmart and buy a battery for $79 (about same cost as a load tester if you don't go to mcautoparts and have them test for you.). Walmart OES supplier for their batteries is Johnson Controls out of Wisconsin and I am quite fond of them in quality and in price.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@secondsaab It's a 5 speed. Since I haven't started it in over a year I don't want to risk heading down the street if it doesn't start.

@jvanabra I took a look this weekend, but I wasn't sure which terminals to jump. Here's a shot of the solenoid. Ignore the white wire in the last pic. I took that for another reason.
 

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Check the immobilizer. I had this exact issue with my first vert and the immobilizer was preventing current from going to the starter. Like you, everything else worked fine. You can test it by bridging the in/out connector that comes to the immobilizer and goes back to the ignition. I just took a paper clip and made a "u" to connect the two sides...started right up
 

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You are looking for 12v on the yellow wire, that's the trigger for the solenoid. You should get 12v when the key is in start. Providing 12v to that wire will engage the starter. There is a pin on the TSI connector (little round doodad in the fuse panel) which is shared with the yellow wire.


1 is +30 (battery power)
2 is ground
3 is starter solenoid
4 is +15 (switched power)
5 is RPM signal
6 is empty

You can bridge pin 1 to 4 and have the ignition turn on, then start the car by supplying power from pin 1 to 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You are looking for 12v on the yellow wire, that's the trigger for the solenoid. You should get 12v when the key is in start. Providing 12v to that wire will engage the starter. There is a pin on the TSI connector (little round doodad in the fuse panel) which is shared with the yellow wire.


1 is +30 (battery power)
2 is ground
3 is starter solenoid
4 is +15 (switched power)
5 is RPM signal
6 is empty

You can bridge pin 1 to 4 and have the ignition turn on, then start the car by supplying power from pin 1 to 3.
SPLENDID!

I turned on the ignition normally, but used the jumper from pin 1 to 3, and she fired right up. Turned it off using the ignition and then she would start normally thereafter. Whatever was the problem, was reset and all is well. Thanks everyone for the input and especially @jvanabra
 

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SPLENDID!

I turned on the ignition normally, but used the jumper from pin 1 to 3, and she fired right up. Turned it off using the ignition and then she would start normally thereafter. Whatever was the problem, was reset and all is well. Thanks everyone for the input and especially @jvanabra
Sounds like an intermittent starter switch. Might happen again. Have some spray contact cleaner handy.
 
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