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Discussion Starter #1
My AC died about 2 days ago, no cold air, then my car died (900 SE Turbo 2.0 1997) then came right back online while still cruising. Happened twice that day, once at 25 MPH, once at 65 MPH, it seemed to want to stall at idle.

Next day everything worked fine except the air was not working. Today I come to work and the thing died again going around 65MPH, came right back up, then as I was coming into the parking lot it dies again, but this time, it doesnt come back up and I drive it into a spot dead.

Now the car will not start, I turn the key and all electrical comes on, turn the key to start and all I get is a click. Whats wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Must be a battery problem and the cables that run with it. I just checked the relays and fuses and when I tried to lock the car using the keychain lock the alarm went off. It sounds pretty dead right now.

A new battery and tightening of the vable I would assume? What you guys think.
 

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That depends on how old the battery is, and how many miles are on the car (and the alternator). An old battery may keep a car from starting, but it connot make it stall at idle. Batteries, cable terminals, and charging systems need a little maintenance now and then. Fortunately it is one of the easiest things to do on a car.

You can clean the terminals a little, tighten them, check the battery for enough fluid, top up if necessary.

Then jump the car, give the battery time to charge, drive it to an Autozone or similar to test the battery and the charging system, after the battery has charged up.

Note it can take a few trips to get back to a full charge.

In any case, check for corroded cable ends, because moving the cable around when a battery is being replaced can seem to fix the problem temporarily.

You can get a cheap voltmeter and check the power yourself if the problem seems intermittent. The voltage should be 14V with the engine at idle, and battery charging, then drop to about 13V with the engine and everything else including lights and radio off, between 12.5 and 13V after the car stands for a few hours or overnight, around 12V with engine off and headlights turned on... etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had a loose cable, but the end of it was fried so I had to cut a short piece off and add a little clip to the end of it. Seemed the battery clamp had cracked, so I bought a new one and replaced it.

I turn the key, and nothing. So I assume the battery is dead and jump it. The horn starts going off (alarm) I hit the door lock button on the key chain and it goes off. Unhook the cables and let it run an hour in case battery is dead.

So I shut it off, and think I should try the key again, turn the key and nothing, but I can jump start it and the alarm goes off. Now what???

Some kinda security thing?
 

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Sounds like a dead battery, it doesnt seem to want to hold a charge. The car will jump start, however it is running off the alternator not the battery, this might be why the AC dies. suggest getting a voltmeter and testing battery as the first point, secondly I would test the alternator/charging connections
 

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If the battery terminals are getting hot when your car dies, this indicates that the terminals themselves need a good clean. If everything is ok here, I would check the cable to earth from the battery for damage, followed by the connections to the alternator, and then, the black box kit itself. It could be that the brushes here are on the way out.


HTH
 

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"tightening a cable connection" was mentioned.

That is one of many mistakes owners make, that and no annual maintenance.
The ends must be cleaned and then properly tightened, but NOT overtightened.
I use a reamer to clean the contact surfaces, better than a brush.
Then some baking soda and water.
When all is clean and dry, and the ends reinstalled, I cap it off with a shot or two of battery terminal spray.
I think some spray polyurethane would also be effective..
Actually the entire battery should be removed and that whole cruddy area cleaned.
Batteries are so destructive...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I cleaned the battery posts and reconnected everything and it works fine. Tested battery at Autozone (the actually cleaned the contacts) even the AC works now.

Thanks for all the help. Attached is a picture of the new setup and the old one which cracked (look a Saab battery! still works 100000 miles)
 

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That is great !

At 100k, many batteries and alternators fail, and on the best of vehicles. I usually start replacing the alternator brushes at this mileage on all the cars (Saab, Volkswagen, Honda, Mercedes, Volvo, M88).
Whoops, delete M88 - but you know what I mean..
 
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