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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My girlfriends 900 Taladega's rev counter goes straight up to 2800 rpm whenever you start the car and sits there, once in a while it will read normally but 99.9% its at 2800.
Anyone had anything similar?
 

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Not I

Give this a try
Check the grounds and connections at the ECU and the DIC.
Electronic Control Unit
Direct Ignition Cassette
 

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I know this thread is old, but I've had the same exact problem for about a year. I used to be able to smack the instrument cluster and it would pop back down, but now, no matter how hard I hit, it just sits as 2800rpm unless I drive the car for over an hour, and then it will usually work normally.
 

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Probably another instrument cluster solder crack.

By now this could be an advertised service in the yellow pages, as most cars use this design..or used to;oops:
 

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Me too!

I too have this exact problem. Right at 2800 from start up to shut off. If I go over bumps it starts to work but usually doesn't 95% of the time. I changed the CPS (crank position sensor ) but it didn't solve the problem. I have not checked the solders yet.

Anyone else with this problem??
Why would it be stuck specifically at 2800 rpm's, perhaps it is there as a default when a ceratin error is occurring with its signal.
I bet that when someone gets this fixed on theirs it will be the same fix for all of us. (i hope):roll:
 

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Ok, so I finally got around to fixing the tach.

Here's what I found wrong :

One of the 4 "posts" of the tachometer "motor" (I'm not sure what you call it" had separated from the PCB board. All that was required was a quick touch with the soldering iron.

I didn't take any pics, but it's pretty straight forward:

1. Remove instrument cluster
2. Remove 6 torx screws from back of cluster
3. Unplug all 5 connections to separate the halves
4. I wish I had taken pictures, but on the PCB board right behind the tach gauge, you should see a soldered post (wire protrusion) that is cracked marked "CIN -" or "CIN +" or "CON -" or "CON +", something like that. It'll make sense when you get to this point. Anyways, touch a hot solder iron to this connector to remelt the solder, you can add some more if you wish.

When I did this, because I wasn't sure what I was looking for, so I took apart the WHOLE thing, which was unnecessary. Now, my turbo gauge isn't working, and I can't get my speedometer needle back on properly. I will mention, that when I fixed mine, I also found a broken connection inside the tach "motor". However, I think I broke the connection while I was taking it apart, so that's why I didn't mention it until now. If the steps above don't work, then you need to take the whole thing apart (the needles just pull straight out) and take a look at the tach "motor" ( I found that one of the windings wasn't connected to one of the posts)


Hope this helps!
 
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