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On c900s I used the "two hammer method" successfully for years. But, Harbor Freight now has cheap ball joint separators I never feel bad about modifying them to fit Saabs.



They fail after a while, but it's another $20 and 20 minutes with a cutoff wheel. It's way less annoying than hammers.
Do you have the part nos? I am going by a Harbor Freight and would like to look at that unit. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I knew it was going to take a while, but I finally finished with the front suspension: new boots, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, new control arm bushings, new sway bar bushings, new shocks.

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Still waiting for my cylinder head, so no time lost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Pulled the disintegrating foam pad off the seat today.

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Is it supposed to be glued down, or has it just become fused over 30 years?
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Do you happen to know what they ended up sourcing? I am going through this AGAIN on a T5 head...
BTW, the guy at the machine shop didn't know where the valve guides came from, just that his distributer found them. Said he could get more - I can post his info if you want.
 

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I'm betting they are ITM or Precision (which might be the same thing). Not a great reputation for those two, but they are indeed available. I'd be interested to know what he came up with though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Timing chain...

Tensioner shows about 18-19mm
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Here are the guides:

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I have a new upper guide and a new split-link chain. Should I do the chain before putting the cylinder head on? Is it possible to do without cranking the engine?
 

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Thats severe stretch , I would be replacing all guides and fitting an endless chain , look at the tracks in the guides , heavy wear .
I havent removed the TC cover in situ , always done this with the engine ou because imo , other bits to do at that stage ..... but it would be fairly easy with the head out the way .
You can spin the engine by the crank pulley if you do roll in a chain , head out the way is just a bonus.
 
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