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I'll add: I think Powerflex has a high quality rubber option sold under their Heritage (?) brand. Parts for Saabs carries them. I would be inclined to spend that money over Proparts if that's what the choice came down to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Got a loaner spring compressor from AutoZone - that was useless.

Went back and swapped it for a MacPherson spring compressor - that didn't really help much either because it was hard to grip the highest coil, and also because I couldn't get them 180 degrees apart, so the back side of the spring didn't compress as much. :cautious:

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Bought this one by 8MileLake on Amazon...

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...worked like a charm!

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I took off the yellow plastic protectors giving a fraction more clearance, which was needed to fit over the highest coil. Then 130 cranks on the ratchet, and out it came!

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Now I can do all that suspension work I was hoping to avoid! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
My gut tells me that the top and bottom sections of this motor mount should be attached...

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So I went to Ace and bought a couple of bolts...

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I wonder how long the motor has been bouncing around in there. 🤔
 

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Got a loaner spring compressor from AutoZone - that was useless.

Went back and swapped it for a MacPherson spring compressor - that didn't really help much either because it was hard to grip the highest coil, and also because I couldn't get them 180 degrees apart, so the back side of the spring didn't compress as much. :cautious:

View attachment 285014

Bought this one by 8MileLake on Amazon...

View attachment 285017

...worked like a charm!

View attachment 285015

I took off the yellow plastic protectors giving a fraction more clearance, which was needed to fit over the highest coil. Then 130 cranks on the ratchet, and out it came!

View attachment 285016

Now I can do all that suspension work I was hoping to avoid! ;)
Nice to have the proper tools, right?
 

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I have a Question, if the Drivers side, upper ball joint, rubber on an 88 Saab Spg has deteriorated, and has torn apart, would you change the other 3, (Upper, Lower) on both sides, at the same time you replace the torn one? Assuming the 3 remaining ball joints, that aren't showing signs of deterioration, but are the same age as the torn one, are due to fail?
Then if the 2 bolts that are holding the torn ball joint are the same age as the ball joint itself, would you change them, Nuts, bolts (8 Total), since you are going to be right there. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I used grade 10.9 bolts for the motor mount. Not that im an expert, just that I assume stronger is better for that application.

As for ball joints, again no expert, but I would probably replace at least the other upper joint, for symmetry. (I actually replaced all four, assuming after 30 years they were due.) I intended to reuse the bolts, but some of them started stripping before reaching the proper torque, so I replaced them all with the hardware that came with the ball joints.
 

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I used grade 10.9 bolts for the motor mount. Not that im an expert, just that I assume stronger is better for that application.

As for ball joints, again no expert, but I would probably replace at least the other upper joint, for symmetry. (I actually replaced all four, assuming after 30 years they were due.) I intended to reuse the bolts, but some of them started stripping before reaching the proper torque, so I replaced them all with the hardware that came with the ball joints.
I ordered all 4 ball joints, 2 lower, 2 upper
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, both were the same part
Font Auto part Engineering Art Metal
nos. I figured the car is 33 years old with 200,000.plus miles, sat 15 years, so it would be prudent to change them all. Its a lot easier to change them on the Saab than my other classic car. Brake pads front and rear are next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Its a lot easier to change them on the Saab than my other classic car.
Do you have a good tool to get the ball joints off? I discovered that none of the tools I found would fit between the lower ball joint's bolt and the steering knuckle. Another thread here suggested hitting the steering knuckle with a hammer - it worked for me!

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You can see the dimples where the hammer hit the knuckle. Took several tries, but that plus a little "prying" motion with a large screwdriver between the bolt and the knuckle, and it eventually popped out.
 

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Normally when breaking a taper fit you hit the stud 90 deg from the direction of the taper. So, hit the joint end not the knuckle, but it worked for you.
A fitted taper can exceed 90% the of the solid piece.
On sizes the size of the Saab's I use a "pickle fork" taper wedge to aid in removal.
On bigger stuff or on joints I want to re use and don't want to risk the rubbers. I hit the base of the joint from the side with a large hammer after removing the nut.
 

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Cornbinder 99 has it correct. You use a "Pickle Fork" only when you are going to replace the rubber as well. A 2 jawed gear puller will work as well. Leave the nut on the ball joint, so the screw on the gear puller can't slip out, hit it with an air wrench and it will push it through.
 

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On c900s I used the "two hammer method" successfully for years. But, Harbor Freight now has cheap ball joint separators I never feel bad about modifying them to fit Saabs.



They fail after a while, but it's another $20 and 20 minutes with a cutoff wheel. It's way less annoying than hammers.
 
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