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Discussion Starter · #302 ·
Well, finally got the bypass valve back in. Put a little more oil on the cams and tried again - still got the oil light on. 🙁

I suppose it might need priming again - maybe try through the oil filter adapter like before. I'll probably add a gauge while I'm in there. Check the sensor too?
 

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Without being there and having it in front of me, and based on things you said you tried, I am not optimistic.
Residual oil will protect things for a short while, but continued trying can risk more damage.
I would say put the oil filter adaptor off the block, feed oil into the passage from the oil pump until it will not take any more, then re install the filter adaptor on the block and make one last attempt, if that is a no go, Pull the power unit.
You already tried doing it in chassie, and this where you ended up, the chances pf a better outcome the 2nd time isn't great, and with the power unit out you can clean the sump and at least check the bearing before buttoning back up. pulling the oil pump in situ at best, will get some oil pressure but will not address any wear that has happened as a result of the mileage and oil contamination.
Time to ask yourself how much effort you are willing to put in?
 

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Personally I would remove the pump and poke around before pulling the engine. It's < 30 minutes of work and may give you answers.
 

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To be clear, I am not saying the engine is toast, rather that there is something keeping from getting oil moving, it could be as simple as a cut O ring on the pick-up or a gasket that shifted.
But if he wasn't successful on the 1st attempt, repeating is n chassis are more likely to have repeat outcome.
Even if the best outcome, that the pump starts pumping, he still has bottom end bearings with 230K on them and have been subject to antifreeze contamination. Since he has already put money into the head, cleaning the bottom end and at least inspection of the bearings if not replacement will go a long way in assuring many more miles of enjoyable driving.
 

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I generally agree, but I wouldn't run to replace the bearings. It's guaranteed they could use replacing, but B202s will generally run a lot longer than 230k before it's required. If this was going to be a daily driver racking up 15k/yr, I'd probably do the bearings. But, I would imagine a project convertible is a 3-5k/yr car. It could take a decade or more to reach to the point where the bottom end is a problem.
 

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Any way you look at it 230K is a fair bit on any automotive engine. Running until failure is never a good plan on something you want to rebuild. If its worth a head, its worth a bottom end, in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Finished this up today. Been working on it nights and cold days. Suppose I'll have to do the passenger side now.
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Fixture

Not perfect, but better than this:
Hood Netbook Bumper Automotive exterior Bag
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
Decided to go in through the oil pump, as I could diagnose as well as prime. Here's how it looked when I pulled it off:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Not much oil there, but I think that is expected. Here's the other side:
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle

Ant there is the culprit - pickup tube not seated correctly. Hoping I can just loosen the timing cover a bit and get it adjusted, but dreading yet another round of timing cover removal.

By the way, the book mentions that "the outer rotor must be positioned with the indentation facing away from the oil pump housing." Does it look right in the first photo?

Also, where exactly do I put the Vaseline to prime it?
 

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Looks like you've found the problem. The tube/O ring must fit into the recess in the housing, not just butt up against it. The O ring compresses as the tube is forced into the recess. The end of the tube sticks into/ through the hole in the casting. Best bet is to get a rod that just fits inside the tube and use that to work the tube into position It is critical that the tube fully seats in the timing cover.
As far as priming, either pour some oil over the gears or smear with vasoline and rotate the pump gears to distribute. Don't forget the gasket/O ring on the pump to seal it to the timing cover. A dab of grease can help hold the o ring in the groove while the cover is installed.
 

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If you take the oil pump off, note how the oil pickup tube feels when it's properly engaged in the back of the timing cover.
You're going to have to steer that tube into place as you refit the cover (I stuck a finger through the hole to wiggle the tube into place).
I don't remember if you installed the timing cover with the oil pump already on or not, but Jim's point on disassemble was to note how far into the hole the tube was on dis assembly so you could be sure it fully seated on re assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
Yeah, thought I had it, but so focused on the gasket that I must have missed it last time around. I'll see if I can wiggle it into place.
 

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Good point! You want something that fits inside but will not deform it when you go to move it. Expand the end and you'll never get it "home".
 

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Yeah, nice! Hopefully the oring was not damaged. To be an alarmist, I would consider installing an oil pressure gauge for the long term. You would want to know if pressure started dropping off due to a sealing issue rather than be alerted to the "less than 5psi light."

Oil pump gear looks right - divot on the top.

People pack the whole housing with Vaseline, but it shouldn't be necessary. The pump empties every time the engine is shut down. I coat the gears with a film of assembly lube so there is something when the engine starts. Filling the oil filter housing with oil is probably the best approach... It's the factory approach. But I can never be arsed. Take it for what you will. ;)
 

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If vaseline is handy to you , use it , takes 2 seconds to work it around the gears of the pump . Dont forget the Pump O Ring on refitting and again go through the process of disabling spark on initial cranking till idiot light goes out . Well done on getting it seated and Agreed re fitting a Pressure Gauge .
 
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