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Are you sure the battery is good? If the battery is discharged you will see low compression numbers. Low compression on three cylinders is quite unusual. Did you see 6 bar on the first cylinder you tested and 3 bar on the remaining three?
 

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You have nothing to lose by removing the valve cover and checking valve timing (compare cams' positions relative to crank mark at TDC). Although uncommon, timing chain may have jumped a tooth which could explain compression issue. If so, it may be moot if valve(s) made contact with piston(s) since it's an interference engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Are you sure the battery is good? If the battery is discharged you will see low compression numbers. Low compression on three cylinders is quite unusual. Did you see 6 bar on the first cylinder you tested and 3 bar on the remaining three?
hi yes cilinder number 4 (closest to drivers side, LHD) was higher the rest low. I was jumpstarting it wit another running car for the compression test, and pushing the throttle pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
You have nothing to lose by removing the valve cover and checking valve timing (compare cams' positions relative to crank mark at TDC). Although uncommon, timing chain may have jumped a tooth which could explain compression issue. If so, it may be moot if valve(s) made contact with piston(s) since it's an interference engine.
Interesting point, thnx
 

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If it’s the car in your profile photo, it looks to be in really nice shape - too bad. It’s worth removing the valve cover for inspection. Rotate the crank clockwise only. When the crank pulley is aligned with its mark on the timing cover, both cams’ sprocket marks should be aligned with notches on the bearing caps. If not try rotating the crank again one turn.

Do a search here for specifics on cam timing. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Thanks, it is 2 years older now then the picture, it got a bit less shiny. The one who drove it reported overheating but no red lights, so I didn't put too much attention to it, I saw a leak at radiator. What if I do focus on that.. Couldn't it be that cilinder number 4 gets to be cooled better or till the last end and the others don't?It is closest to the thermostat and radiator hose..Therefor the other 3 piston rings went bad, and number 4 didn't? Just thinking out loud. Then is there a reason to figure out why the petrol rail does what it does ( low pressure and won't keep it ) because of overheating? A constantly leaking injector for example?Cilinder 4 had a wetter sparkpkug then the others, but not soaking.
 

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Don’t think you ever said it overheated….in that case it could be blown head gasket - in multiple locations? Warped head? Who knows? In my opinion, you need to find the cause of low compression first. Without it, it’ll never start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Hi all, latest update: the fuel rail valve turned out to be leaking. Screw in a new one and bought a fuel pressure meter, nicely at 3 bar. Then bought an other compression meter to doublecheck the compression; was still very low at 3 cilinders (3 bar only) and just bad at cilinder 4. When adding some engine oil in the spark plug opening compression doubles. Then checked timing ; all good. So the conclusion ( I think ) is; low compression, must be because of overheating, The driver who drove it told me no red lights for overheating, but well I wasn't there. Not decided what to do.. is this likely "only" changing piston rings or can throw away whole engine..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Have you done a pressure test of the cooling system to see if the head gasket is leaking?

Buy a kit that analyzes the coolant to see if there are combustion gases in it.

Thanks,
The coolant got all drained because of a leaking tap in the radiator. My guess is that if it first drives smooth and then within 3 miles stalls its not so likely the head gasket blows for 3 cilinders at the same time. Taking of the head would be next step; if I'm still in for it.
 

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See my thread “Time to Pressure Test for Elusive Coolant Leak” from about 10 days ago And follow what I did to diagnose what is going on. So text step is to pressure test coolant system to see if it will hold pressure. Then, if the engine will ru, as Bob suggests, test the coolant bottle for exhaust gases. Next, and this is optional, get a boroscope (I bought one recently for $50 US, and look down the spark plug holes under various conditions and see what you see. Next, do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you where you are losing compression. With all that information you will know exactly what is wrong with your engine and then be able to make a well informed decision of what direction to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
See my thread “Time to Pressure Test for Elusive Coolant Leak” from about 10 days ago And follow what I did to diagnose what is going on. So text step is to pressure test coolant system to see if it will hold pressure. Then, if the engine will ru, as Bob suggests, test the coolant bottle for exhaust gases. Next, and this is optional, get a boroscope (I bought one recently for $50 US, and look down the spark plug holes under various conditions and see what you see. Next, do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you where you are losing compression. With all that information you will know exactly what is wrong with your engine and then be able to make a well informed decision of what direction to go.
Great tanks, need to tell you car isn't running, and its leaking through radiator, but still helpful, thanks!
 
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