hi yes cilinder number 4 (closest to drivers side, LHD) was higher the rest low. I was jumpstarting it wit another running car for the compression test, and pushing the throttle pedal.Are you sure the battery is good? If the battery is discharged you will see low compression numbers. Low compression on three cylinders is quite unusual. Did you see 6 bar on the first cylinder you tested and 3 bar on the remaining three?
Interesting point, thnxYou have nothing to lose by removing the valve cover and checking valve timing (compare cams' positions relative to crank mark at TDC). Although uncommon, timing chain may have jumped a tooth which could explain compression issue. If so, it may be moot if valve(s) made contact with piston(s) since it's an interference engine.
Have you done a pressure test of the cooling system to see if the head gasket is leaking?
Buy a kit that analyzes the coolant to see if there are combustion gases in it.
The coolant got all drained because of a leaking tap in the radiator. My guess is that if it first drives smooth and then within 3 miles stalls its not so likely the head gasket blows for 3 cilinders at the same time. Taking of the head would be next step; if I'm still in for it.
Great tanks, need to tell you car isn't running, and its leaking through radiator, but still helpful, thanks!See my thread “Time to Pressure Test for Elusive Coolant Leak” from about 10 days ago And follow what I did to diagnose what is going on. So text step is to pressure test coolant system to see if it will hold pressure. Then, if the engine will ru, as Bob suggests, test the coolant bottle for exhaust gases. Next, and this is optional, get a boroscope (I bought one recently for $50 US, and look down the spark plug holes under various conditions and see what you see. Next, do a cylinder leak down test. That will tell you where you are losing compression. With all that information you will know exactly what is wrong with your engine and then be able to make a well informed decision of what direction to go.