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Correct resistance of the sensor is 200-900 ohm. You do not need to remove the sensor to test. Also, be aware the sensor can fail and still show the correct resistance. You are probably best off testing for spark and fuel pressure. If you have either one, the CPS is fine.
 

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Just to clarify what Jvanabra said, every time you turn the key, you will hear the pump prime and then stop
That is not accurate. The pump only primes once every X hundred seconds. I don't know what that is, but I think it's 5 or 10 minutes. If you keep turning the key off and on, it will only prime once.
 

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So main question; Does Saab 9-5 give no spark if no fuel?
That's not exactly right. If there is no CPS signal, the ECM will not run the pump and will not run the DIC.

That is not to say if the DIC fails the fuel pump doesn't run.

If the pump is priming, you should have fuel at the fuel rail... if you don't, the pump is suspect. The next test is to get a fuel pressure gauge, run the fuel pump manually (jumper the fuse), and see if you have correct pressure.

Brake cleaner probably will not start a cold engine - use carb cleaner or starter fluid.
 

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What you are suggesting is not a good test. You really can't understand what is happening without a fuel pressure gauge.

If the car has been sitting for a little while, you turn the key, the pump runs for about two seconds, and then you IMMEDIATELY depressed the valve on the fuel rail you should get a spray of fuel. But, that only happens if everything is working correctly - fuel pressure regulator, check valves, etc. - and there is no certainty that's true.

I would really encourage you to buy, rent, or borrow a fuel pressure gauge. They are typically not expensive.

If you are sure you can't get a gauge, then this is what I would recommend:

1. After the car has been sitting a while, turn the key and let the pump prime for 2 seconds
2. Depress the valve on the fuel rail and release any pressure that's built up
3. Crank the car over for 5-10 seconds
4. Depress the valve on the fuel rail and see if there is pressure

If yes, the pump and CPS are probably working
If no, then either the pump or CPS are not working

Then,

1. After the car has been sitting a while, depress the valve on the fuel rail and release any pressure that's built up
2. Use a jumper wire to run the fuel pump directly from the fuse box for 5-10 seconds
3. Depress the valve on the fuel rail and see if there is pressure

If yes, the pump is working
If no, then the pump is not working

I DO NOT recommend doing this. Releasing pressurized fuel into the atmosphere is a good way to start a fire. You should use a fuel pressure gauge. Continuing without one is dangerous.
 

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I use a 10' piece of 16ga wire with an alligator clip on one end and a .205" quick disconnect on the other. The clip goes on the battery, the quick disconnect goes into the fuse socket... The pump will run as long as the two are connected.
 

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Hi thanks for all advice, I realize I am not going the quickest road for some, I am not that much in a hurry, and in the end I will get my parts.
Today I 've put a test light on the fuse for fuel pump. It gets power when turning the ignition on, then goes off. Then when crancking it goes on again; CPS seems to do it's job. Then putted a 12v direct from battery to this fuse as one of you suggested; the pump is hearably working but when pushing the valve at rail right after doing that; still no pressure; So bad fuel pump or clogged filter. The only thing I don't get; why doesn't it fire up after spraying starting spray?
On the surface, this sounds like a failed fuel pump. However, as I mentioned before this is not conclusive. If the check valves on the fuel pump are not working it's definitely possible you would lose rail pressure before releasing the Schrader valve. If you have a fuel pressure gauge attached, while the pump is running, you will know for 100% certainty if you have fuel pressure.

An alternative approach, which I would also not recommend due to extreme fire risk, is to detach the return from the fuel rail (the smaller of the two tubes), slip some fuel-safe hose over the rail, and direct those hose into a container. If you crank the car and gas fills the container, the pump at least somewhat works. Of course, without a fuel pressure gauge you don't know if it's enough.

In any case, it sounds like the CPS is working. I would probably cross that off the list as a suspect. You seem adverse to buying tools, but connecting a noid light to a fuel injector connector would rule it out entirely.
 

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Are you sure the battery is good? If the battery is discharged you will see low compression numbers. Low compression on three cylinders is quite unusual. Did you see 6 bar on the first cylinder you tested and 3 bar on the remaining three?
 
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