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9-5 Rust-eze Build

24536 Views 126 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  sirbow2
This project has been going since last summer, so I guess it's time to post this before it's done (not even close by the way). Plus I thought of a clever title haha!

It has rust in the floorpan, rear part of the rocker panels, and 3 out of 4 wheel wells. It's kind of bad, but pretty localized so it will require cutting out small metal sections and replacing it.

The rocker panels were done last year and will be finished when the car is painted:

Onto the floor pan which turned out kinda rough, but eh, it was my first big patch:

Investigating passenger side:

Driver side wheel well will need some work too:

The rear underside isn't too bad and will be sandblasted.

The last big body repair to do is this very unfortunate towing accident....

So the plan now is to get the rest of the rust taken care of, sandblast the underside and cover it all with a 2 part epoxy mastic coating. Then it's onto the suspension with the same sorta plan.
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I'm kinda debating where I wanna go with the project as it'd be so much easier to just get her back to stock and use the compound turbo idea on a more tuner car (Starion maybe?). Plus then I can sell my POS daily and use the Saab!
As an owner of several Starions, they are a car that can be tuned, but very little aftermarket support, they require a lot of maintenance, and have probably been hacked up by a previous owner. They only use 2 injectors and for a compound turbo setup would probably need an MPI conversion, which is expensive(need to go standalone, and good luck on finding a manifold).That said, I still love them and am working on swapping everything from my built 88 widebody to an 86 flat body. The guys on are pretty helpful.
Thanks for the info. I did look into what it'd take to get trionic to handle compounds and its not much more than a single turbo high HP build. The MAF isnt reliable after 300 some HP so you have to switch to a MAFless tune (MAP sensor). The MAP sensor has to be upgraded to a 4bar version to read the higher boost pressures. Ill also have to replace the factory boost control solenoid because I doubt it will like 50psi (who knows if ill actually get that high)

Luckily, some guy in russia already figured this stuff out on trionic tunning for his twin sequential setup!

Anyways, I have the motor put together now! going back to stock for break in, then build the compound system.

PS 80s and 90s cars are the best and a Starion is on my list. :D
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Still making progress..veeery slowly :( I changed to white primer and the orange is looking way better. Not gonna bother to fix the engine bay though as i wont see it 99% of the time (hopefully).

Now onto the doors, hood trunk, etc. these should go way quicker as i've learned a bit along the way.

Plan for the project is to install the stock turbo for break in and then install a 19T-td04hla (hla = twin scroll) from a subaru. I'll probably bite the bullet and just upgrade to an LSD now. I want to finish this as a daily and move on to other stuff... like compounds in a small AWD truck.


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fantastic story. well done

Put a second coat of undercoating on to hide my overspray... The orange/black pops so well!

I found a 99 9-5 at a junkyard nearby so im heading there tomorrow to find a bunch of random stuff.


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Wow He's Back! I wondered where this project went to....

Glad your back, can't wait to see how this turns out.
Wow He's Back! I wondered where this project went to....

Glad your back, can't wait to see how this turns out.

Was gone last week and part of this week for work, so nothing is getting done :cry:

Ive started to put the engine bay back together. Still need to paint some brackets and respray clear on the radiator support.

I'm also working on building some jigs for the engine mounts so i can build urethane versions. Bought some 75 Durometer 2 part rubber. hope i got enough.

I have a hunch that the urethane front trans mounts wear quickly because they are stiffer than the stock mounts and take most of the load. All poly should work better.


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It's about time for another update....

The tank has been reinstalled along with the brake and fuel lines running to the rear. This was a little more complicated because I was planning on dual walbro 450s for the compound setup. Anyways, its just a single walbro 450 and I had to keep the -8AN lines. There's 10AWG wire from the battery straight to the pump (with a fuse and relay of course).

Maptun tank straps broke as i started tightening them.... scary stuff.

Now for the motor mounts. Here's what the setup for the left engine mount looked like. Basically just a washer mounted to the bottom half, and a bolt with two washers floating in the top.

Assembled, ready for filling

The right engine mount after filling. I built a retaining ring to fully submerge the floating bit in rubber. This one had a jig made as well.

Gutted the rear mount and built a polyurethane mount as well.

Cast some rubber inserts for this mount and machined them down to final fit

I used an aluminum spool gun for the first time on got a little away from me, but itll work well enough.

aaaaaand here they are:


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It's been a little over a year...I've been stalking for a's progress?
Non existent really. Bought a quaife LSD and a bluetooth module for the radio that goes through the CD changer cable.

I'll get to this eventually, life has just been... difficult.
For some stuff yes. When I started this I was a poor college student and thought I could get away with doing body work with a dc stick welder converted to tig.... I definitely would not recommend it.

The hideous rear motor mount was my first time doing aluminum mig...

I plan on eventually buying a nice ac/dc tig mig combo.
For some stuff yes. When I started this I was a poor college student and thought I could get away with doing body work with a dc stick welder converted to tig.... I definitely would not recommend it.

The hideous rear motor mount was my first time doing aluminum mig...

I plan on eventually buying a nice ac/dc tig mig combo.
I ask 'cause MIG is prefered for sheet metal because you can tack and keep temps down. I have a nice MIG 190 amp 220 vac that is great for body work. I do have a good TIG, but I find it too hard to keep the temps down and for tack welding the MIG is what pro body shops use. When we restored my 1973 911 Porsche my friend who did the body work and is a high end restorer used only my MIG on it.....and he did do a few small patches.

I am currently painting my 2000 Aero wagon, the RED SLED Imola red.......luckily it needed no welding in that it is a NM and CA car and has no rust. We did do lots of body work however in that it had dings in like every panel.

Have fun.
You're absolutely right. The tig warped that rear panel so bad.

Only time I've seen tig used is with extreme high end restorations and the patch fits perfect.... Waste of labor imo.

I will finish this. It'll just take time and I'm working on another project right now
I'm getting back to this project finally. I spent the last couple of years building a turbocharged EFI 1978 Kawasaki KZ650.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive fuel system
Automotive tire Fuel tank Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle

Anyways, back to the saab.
Engine harness: I found a used 2002 aero engine harness with half the miles which will fix the hack job I did on the original that had a broken injector connection somewhere (which caused the burnt valve).

Brakes: I'm also working on refurbishing the brakes: I found some cobalt turbo brembos for the front and will use stock calipers on the rear. I'm pivoting from the orange brakes idea and will paint the calipers black. Also needs new handbrake hardware.

fuel system: I shouldve just kept the stock lines, but I'm no longer considering the compound turbos. I think I need to make an aluminum top hat for the pump assembly as I don't really trust the bulkhead fittings in plastic. Also need to find a place to mount the fancy water separator/fuel filter.

turbo: going back to stock for break in. I do have a subaru 19T twin scroll that I will probably build a manifold for though.

Transmission: Install LSD and a few internal upgrades according the the genuine saab page.

Misc: I also bought a blusaab (i think?) that I saw on Facebook once. It taps into the cd changer cable in the rear for bluetooth audio. I did buy a new welder for the bike project: an Everlast MTS 225 ac/dc tig/mig

Plan roughly looks like:
-refurbish brakes so the suspension is ready to go
-replace engine wiring harness
-finish new fuel system...
-Paint doors, hood, bumpers, trunk.
-install bluesaab
-install short shifter
-transmission mods
-reinstall engine etc w/ stock turbo for break in
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Wish you I would have known you were in need of an '02 wiring harness. I have one laying around in a box somewhere that I couldn't find when I got rid of almost all of my spare parts to a local Saab guy. Oh well.

Glad to see you're back on the project. Even though I just come here infrequently it's fun to watch

BTW, I had a Bluesaab a while back, the hard wired one. Worked great with good steering wheel controls. They had a website on blogspot that had the latest software and how to load it. You'll need to get the CD changer adapter unless your car is a '99 which shipped with it. I think eeuroparts still sells it.

no idea if the guy who did that thing is even active anymore. (I ended up putting a Pioneer AVIC into my dash so I got rid of the Bluesaab. )
Thanks for the offer. I will keep the forums in mind when looking for parts.

the seller for the bluesaab was in the UK and picked up a cd harness for me as well. It was a new unit so i believe the project is active to some extent.

A few updates:
I dug out the shifter unit from the car and installed the genuine saab short shifter...A very nice unit but damn those three bolts are tricky.

I also tore apart the shifter linkage to replace the bushings and linkages. Linkages need to be approx 106 and 75mm long and offset 13mm from the M8x1.25 socket in the shifter. right (ss) and left I cant find the proper left/right hand M8 studs, so i will just use M8 allthread and two right ball joints. I don't really see a need to adjust it anyways.

pivot shafts are 14.80mm and 19.80mm OD, housings are 19.0-19.1mm and 24.05-24.15mm ID respectively. 2mm flanges, 10mm overall length. I cant find the exact bushings so i will just lathe some out of aluminum because i have it on hand. grease should prevent galvanic corrosion.
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I dug out the shifter unit from the car and installed the genuine saab short shifter...A very nice unit but damn those three bolts are tricky.
I've done four of them, they don't get any easier with practice.
finished up the shifter linkage. The part on the right is a fixture to replace the ball joint on the sheet metal bracket with a m8x1.25 bung for screwing in the last ball joint connection.
Gas Composite material Machine Auto part Metal
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Damn. 5 months since the last post. I've been chugging along as I can but work has been exhausting.

I installed the bluesaab module and cd changer cable in the trunk.

Zinc plated the hand brake parts and reassembled/calibrated the handbrake system. This was lazy home plating so they're a little burnt, but i am working on a little rotissery plater for the future. should be cool.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Asphalt Automotive exterior Font

Repaired the corroded rear swing arm dampers with the tig welder...nasty cast aluminum was a pain
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Gas

I also dropped the fuel tank to fix the fuel pump hanger for two reasons:
-I used bulkhead fittings on the nylon top hat and they arent very secure).
-I also gutted the jet pump on the oem hanger so i'd like to be a little more oem with my solution while maintaining the 8AN lines.
I've already done some tinkering and I can stuff the huge 450lph e85 pump in the stock pump bucket with a few tweaks. neato. I've made an Aluminum top hat as well. This needs to be assembled and welded.

Along that line, bought new nickel copper brake lines, a flaring tool and all that stuff to remake the brake lines. I couldn't stomach using the old ones. I havent started making the new lines yet though.

Finished up the install of the short shifter. This entailed replacing the shift rod i bent one time pulling the motor and extending the reverse lock out collar that i cut doing the diy short shifter. What a nice interior for 200k miles. Still need to find the AC seat blanks to install the aux plug and another connector for the ECU can bus.
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I started sanding up the hood and trunk. Still needs rock chips filled and primer, basecoat/clear etc.
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The last thing i just finished up was painting all of the remaining random brackets and suspension components. I dropped the tarp in the garage creating a one stall paint booth.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Automotive lighting Bumper Trunk
Lighting Interior design Building Floor Wood

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Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Wood

Oh, and if anyone needs front aero calipers, i have these nice black painted ones that I dont need as I bought some brembos.
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