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Discussion Starter #1
This project has been going since last summer, so I guess it's time to post this before it's done (not even close by the way). Plus I thought of a clever title haha!

It has rust in the floorpan, rear part of the rocker panels, and 3 out of 4 wheel wells. It's kind of bad, but pretty localized so it will require cutting out small metal sections and replacing it.


The rocker panels were done last year and will be finished when the car is painted:


Onto the floor pan which turned out kinda rough, but eh, it was my first big patch:


Investigating passenger side:


Driver side wheel well will need some work too:


The rear underside isn't too bad and will be sandblasted.


The last big body repair to do is this very unfortunate towing accident....


So the plan now is to get the rest of the rust taken care of, sandblast the underside and cover it all with a 2 part epoxy mastic coating. Then it's onto the suspension with the same sorta plan.
 

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Yes! Keep this updated. I've always felt for the amount of love that people around here have for their saabs, not enough effort goes into them when it comes to rust


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Discussion Starter #5
Online sites and the EPC are saying the part changed for 05+ or is that just a part number quirk?

Jpgroth, kind of. I've done a few engine rebuilds and I'm pretty handy with a wrench but this is my first go with body work. I think it'll go alright now that I have a good little tig setup and more time than money as a student.


Today I got a new tank of argon and worked on a 5SFE engine from a Camry so I can afford this project :D


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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Picked this up from the junkyard so I can fix up my smashed rear light section. I don't plan on replacing the entire quarter panel, but I did cut past the spot welds around the taillight on the donor car so it can disassembled and spot welded to easily fit my car.


Today's project: front passenger wheel well rust using the Project Binky paper template method!


Cut it out, make a template:


Transfer template:


Done-zo!



I threw random rattle can on the outside as it will get sandblasted later, but the inside was sealed up real nice with some OSI caulking stuff. Used this on the floor pan before I decided to redo it and it held up very well. Super stoked on how this turned out compared to the floor pan repair, but surprise, surprise, the proper tools really help! I did light my damn saab on fire like 5 times though! Should have cleared away more sound deadening material.

Started to put interior in:



But didn't finish because the rear seats would just get in the way of removing this rust. Problem is that it looks like the rust goes through that entire section of seem sealer through the divider wall. Not sure how i'm gonna tackle this one as I really don't wanna take out that divider.


Also did some other underbody stuff and tinkered with the platonoff diy short throw shifter.
 

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Good luck with it, I've dealt with the iron cancer in the past and it's not fun.

We have none of this kind of stuff out here in CA. In fact for the amount you're going to put into the car I can probably find you a dead car with no rust and have it shipped to you. I just finished a 2001 Aero wagon for my son that had a blown engine. used the engine out of his car and it's on the road and the body is in great shape. After selling stuff I'm into the car for a total of about $400.

Shame I didn't see these posts before I junked the 99 sedan. I could have grabbed the plasma cutter and cut out a bunch of stuff for you. I don't think the junkyard would have cared if it had a bunch of holes in it!


As an example:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/5991116510.html


If it runs enough to get it on and off the truck it'll cost you $700 to ship it. Costs more if it can't be driven onto the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's so true, but i'm already in too deep and being a college student I can't spend that much for shipping. There aren't any Saabs for sale in Rapid City and in general the cars are typically in bad condition and have ridiculous prices. Advice for anyone wanting to move here: don't. Unless you REALLY like the scenery.

It's "just" the rear fender well rust now and then its onto paint. Spring break is a week away, so having the underbody sprayed is the goal for that.
 

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BTW, don't use sandblasting. It's too fine, will rip up sheet metal and gets everywhere (including places where you don't want it)

Use some other kind of larger media like walnut shells, which work just as well but don't damage nearly as much.
 

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Good luck with it, I've dealt with the iron cancer in the past and it's not fun.

We have none of this kind of stuff out here in CA. In fact for the amount you're going to put into the car I can probably find you a dead car with no rust and have it shipped to you.
Cheaper to not deal with the rust, yes. Less of a headache, maybe, probably. But there's something to be said about learning and perfecting a craft. This thread is a great example. Keep up the work man! If I had the extra space and the 'correct' tools I'd be all over these projects. Keep this updated!!
 

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Good to know. What about a lower pressure? As i already bought a bag of Black diamond.
Lower pressure (or low enough) won't do the job of removing the rust. Just think what happens if you get some of that find abrasive in the oil pan, transmission, or intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What engine? hahaha that's already in quite a few pieces in storage waiting for forged internals. The underbody will be taped off with plastic as well.

There's actually not any rust on the underside except in a few spots. I took most of the undercoating and paint off with a wire wheel because i didn't think the media would play nice with gooey undercoating. Problem is the wire wheel left an almost polished surface that needs to be roughed up before painting. Thoughts?
 

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Just use the black diamond media. You'll be fine. It will get everywhere. You will have dust everywhere.

But after going through and cleaning everything, you won't regret it.

No matter what media you use, it gets everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally got something done on the Saab. I peeled apart the various layers of sheet metal in the rear wheel well and got rid of the rust with a sandblaster. It wasn't the best way to do it, but it's the best I could do without taking out the cabin/trunk divider.




Welds are better than the last patch!

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm still making progress and that's what counts!

I picked up some weld thru primer and got the passenger side patch spot welded in and cut out the rear rusty section. Its not the prettiest, but once it gets sandblasted and epoxied primered with the rest of the underbody, it'll be sealed and that's what I care about. Especially once the seam sealer gets properly reapplied.


The other side needs just as much help:

Notice in this next picture that the rust stops when the seem sealer starts. Shame they didn't put it along the whole seam


While I was at the PPG paint store, I asked them on a quote for some high fill primer, header orange (like the newer dodge darts) base coat and some clear coat. That came out to $1100.... So that ain't gonna happen, especially for my first paintjob.

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Ideas....supplier....no clear coat.

"While I was at the PPG paint store, I asked them on a quote for some high fill primer, header orange (like the newer dodge darts) base coat and some clear coat. That came out to $1100.... So that ain't gonna happen, especially for my first paintjob.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk"

paint is not cheap, but there are ways....

WHOA......here is what I do.....http://www.tcpglobal.com/

fabulous supplier, PPG and lots of other great brands. Free shipping over $79.95 orders.

great for autobody supplies too.....they will mix whatever you want.

Also us a good one stage finish.....NO CLEARCOAT. You can color sand it and polish it and easy to correct any problems....and in the future you can maintain it. Hard to maintain Clearcoat. IMHO clearcoat is a manufacturers short cut. You never clearcoat a good paint job.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No progress on the Saab but school is finally over and I got some new welding supplies which should make this job a lot easier.

I got a Jackson auto dimming helmet, gas lense for the torch, solenoid valve for the shielding gas and some better hardware for my tig pedal.


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