Hi everyone,
A few months ago I bought a 1998 turbo engine automatic 9-5 with 150,000km on it. Been loving it since then.
A couple days ago I was parked on my lunch break and the car wouldn't start back up again. I suspected it was the neutral safety switch because I had been having a few issues with it only starting in neutral, but this time it wouldn't even start in neutral. Wouldn't turn over. Nothing except a single click sound (from the starter I assume). Battery didn't seem dead, a jump start didn't work either. So I went back later on in the day and tried to start it again, first turning the ignition in park, then trying neutral, then park again on the advice of a Saab specialist, and it started, so I attempted to drive it home.
At this point while driving home I noticed the oil light came on, and I was a bit confused, because before when I had been driving, before breaking down, it hadn't been on. I HAD noticed that every now and then the oil light would come on briefly before disappearing only while braking over the last few days, but this time it was continuously on. I was so close to home and it was my birthday and I didn't fancy waiting around for a tow so close to my home on my 30th birthday, so I rather foolishly tried to make it home and then address the issue another day. I was driving with the oil light on for probably around 3 minutes, which I realize is pretty stupid.
So the engine stopped in flight on the highway and I couldn't get it started again, so I just assumed the engine had seized. Before the engine stopped I swear I could see a bit of smoke in the rear-view mirror, but I'm not sure because it was foggy and night time. The temp gauge needle was in the middle, not hot. The thing is, the engine still cranks when I turn the key, albeit sluggishly and with (I think) a slightly different rhythm to normal, but it just doesn't start. I was under the impression that a seized engine beyond repair wouldn't even turn and you would hear the starter making a clunk noise which I don't hear at all?
I tested the battery with a multi-meter and got 12.5 volts while the power was off, and 11.5 with the accessories turned on. Tried to jump start it and didn't start.
When I turn the key to the accessories position, there's multiple clicking sounds which seems to be coming from the fuse box every few seconds in bursts, for the whole time that the key is in the powered position.
I got it towed to my house, and there's an auto workshop literally two doors down from me. I got one of the mechanics to have a quick look and he said it seems to him like there's a compression issue and he wants to book it in for a compression test next week. I'm thinking he didn't really have much of a look (I left them with the keys to inspect the car when they had some time - not sure what they actually looked at) and they're just going to charge me to tell me what I already suspect, that the engine is screwed.
I don't know a whole lot about cars, but I'm reasonably able to do minor checks and fixes myself, so I was hoping someone here might be able to give me some advice about what to check or what to do before taking it to the mechanic that I can either diagnose or fix myself, or if its a waste of my time and I should just get a new car and save the expense of having it checked.
Shaun.
A few months ago I bought a 1998 turbo engine automatic 9-5 with 150,000km on it. Been loving it since then.
A couple days ago I was parked on my lunch break and the car wouldn't start back up again. I suspected it was the neutral safety switch because I had been having a few issues with it only starting in neutral, but this time it wouldn't even start in neutral. Wouldn't turn over. Nothing except a single click sound (from the starter I assume). Battery didn't seem dead, a jump start didn't work either. So I went back later on in the day and tried to start it again, first turning the ignition in park, then trying neutral, then park again on the advice of a Saab specialist, and it started, so I attempted to drive it home.
At this point while driving home I noticed the oil light came on, and I was a bit confused, because before when I had been driving, before breaking down, it hadn't been on. I HAD noticed that every now and then the oil light would come on briefly before disappearing only while braking over the last few days, but this time it was continuously on. I was so close to home and it was my birthday and I didn't fancy waiting around for a tow so close to my home on my 30th birthday, so I rather foolishly tried to make it home and then address the issue another day. I was driving with the oil light on for probably around 3 minutes, which I realize is pretty stupid.
So the engine stopped in flight on the highway and I couldn't get it started again, so I just assumed the engine had seized. Before the engine stopped I swear I could see a bit of smoke in the rear-view mirror, but I'm not sure because it was foggy and night time. The temp gauge needle was in the middle, not hot. The thing is, the engine still cranks when I turn the key, albeit sluggishly and with (I think) a slightly different rhythm to normal, but it just doesn't start. I was under the impression that a seized engine beyond repair wouldn't even turn and you would hear the starter making a clunk noise which I don't hear at all?
I tested the battery with a multi-meter and got 12.5 volts while the power was off, and 11.5 with the accessories turned on. Tried to jump start it and didn't start.
When I turn the key to the accessories position, there's multiple clicking sounds which seems to be coming from the fuse box every few seconds in bursts, for the whole time that the key is in the powered position.
I got it towed to my house, and there's an auto workshop literally two doors down from me. I got one of the mechanics to have a quick look and he said it seems to him like there's a compression issue and he wants to book it in for a compression test next week. I'm thinking he didn't really have much of a look (I left them with the keys to inspect the car when they had some time - not sure what they actually looked at) and they're just going to charge me to tell me what I already suspect, that the engine is screwed.
I don't know a whole lot about cars, but I'm reasonably able to do minor checks and fixes myself, so I was hoping someone here might be able to give me some advice about what to check or what to do before taking it to the mechanic that I can either diagnose or fix myself, or if its a waste of my time and I should just get a new car and save the expense of having it checked.
Shaun.