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I have a 2003 9-5 that I can get to start but it will not remain running unless I keep the Key held into the start position. I am lost on what could be causing this. Starts fine but as soon as I let the key go it stops running. I noticed the Coolant light is on- Is this what would keep it from remaining running? any suggestions?
 

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I have a 2003 9-5 that I can get to start but it will not remain running unless I keep the Key held into the start position. I am lost on what could be causing this. Starts fine but as soon as I let the key go it stops running. I noticed the Coolant light is on- Is this what would keep it from remaining running? any suggestions?
Would that (holding the key in the start position) not grind the starter gears?
So the car starts and idles fine (as in, engine running, rpm at 800 or so) until you let go of the key?
Does it just shut off entirely? Or sputter then shut off?
 

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Relatively easy to get a key programmed. What the earlier member suggested was the ignition switch unit, the multi-contact rotating thing which the key/barrel/cylinder assembly turns, and is often the cause of otherwise mysterious electrical behaviour.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have to turn all the way until starts then slightly let go-so no it is not grinding the gears unless I hold in the start position-I hold in the "on" position. If I let go it falls all the way back to off- it shuts off immediately no sputtering- so I believe it is like somebody stated maybe a short in the wiring under the ignition switch-
 

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I wonder if somehow, previous owner, or a shop, had to remove the cylinder and somehow re-inserted it with incorrect orientation which is now throwing off the slide switch at the base of the whole cylinder. I had mine apart today (the usual lube maintenance) and was taking a good look at the separate pieces from the very base, the cylinder itself and the cover with the transponder.
It could very well be electrical, but the OP keeps mentioning (at least I'm reading it this way) that the cylinder springs back which is why he has to hold the key in place. It seems to me that it's just not lining up how it should. Hard to say without removing the cylinder and re-inserting it by lining up both the slot at bottom of the cylinder and the slot at the base where the cylinder goes into.
http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=26395
 

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I have thought about getting the ignition replaced completely - I have talked to somebody that stated to get a key programmed though is nearly impossible? is this true?

No, the security goes with the key. You are changing the ignition switch, which sits under the metal barrel, not the metal barrel and the key(s) that fit in it. So no need for programming a key.


Also, programming a key is dead simple if you have a Tech II tool. If you don't, it's 100% impossible. You just need to find a shop or some owner here who is close to you and has a Tech II.


I wonder if somehow, previous owner, or a shop, had to remove the cylinder and somehow re-inserted it with incorrect orientation which is now throwing off the slide switch at the base of the whole cylinder. I had mine apart today (the usual lube maintenance) and was taking a good look at the separate pieces from the very base, the cylinder itself and the cover with the transponder.
It could very well be electrical, but the OP keeps mentioning (at least I'm reading it this way) that the cylinder springs back which is why he has to hold the key in place. It seems to me that it's just not lining up how it should. Hard to say without removing the cylinder and re-inserting it by lining up both the slot at bottom of the cylinder and the slot at the base where the cylinder goes into.
http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=26395

I don't think so. The cylinder itself has no springing action; with a key in it, it will turn to any angle freely. All that springing-back action is in the ignition switch. Also, the switch will obviously turn OK to the start position, which is the extreme of its travel. If the car can be locked and started, the switch is going through its full range of motion okay. I would go with the switch being bad, specifically some of the contacts in the ON position.
 

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I’ve got a similar situation, with a wacky intermittent instrument cluster. The story is told here:
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727158

I haven’t had any luck locating a Tech II to get a real diagnosis, so I’m going with Mimmi’s suggestion to change out the ignition switch module. I’ve ordered one from eeuro for $175. Plan to do the install myself if I can.

I found a YouTube video for changing the switch out on a 9-3 but the switch is different on the 9-5. Standard transmission on my car.

Question: does anyone know if there is a good YouTube tutorial on changing out a 9-5 switch? I’d like to know which Tupperware I need to remove to get sufficient access to the switch. Thanks in advance.
 

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"changing the switch out on a 9-3 but the switch is different on the 9-5"

Yours being a 2006, its 4943692 which is the same as the 9-3 2000 - 2003.

Doug
 

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"changing the switch out on a 9-3 but the switch is different on the 9-5"

Yours being a 2006, its 4943692 which is the same as the 9-3 2000 - 2003.

Doug
Thanks Doug. For better or worse I went with P/N: 32021798 Genuine Saab Which comes with the pigtail.
 

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Thanks Doug. For better or worse I went with P/N: 32021798 Genuine Saab Which comes with the pigtail.
I too am having issues with my switch preventing the car from starting and am looking to replace it. But the switch you ordered looks like the ones from the older saabs and not the correct one for our car.



this is what your switch should look like
 

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Hmm. Here’s what I ordered which eeuro indicates fits the 2006 9.5:
https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/442251/Ignition-Switch-32021798/
I know it says the parts fit, but having taken them apart its a different one than what should be installed in the car.


Either way, Have you gotten the part yet and had a chance to install it? I just got my replacement as I tried initially to take mine apart and clean all the contacts, but it still works intermittently so hopefully the replacement works and fixes my no start issues
 

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The new part arrived today. No, I haven’t had a chance to try and install yet. I have noticed that wrapping on the dashboard I can bring the needles back to life. That has me wondering if I’m actually dealing with a cluster failure. Let us know how your new switch works. Concerned that my new switch will be a no fit.
 

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The new part arrived today. No, I haven’t had a chance to try and install yet. I have noticed that wrapping on the dashboard I can bring the needles back to life. That has me wondering if I’m actually dealing with a cluster failure. Let us know how your new switch works. Concerned that my new switch will be a no fit.
My switch arrived, but I have a possible tear in my knee ligament so its painful to walk or put pressure on my knee. Doctors pulled me out of work until they know whats going on, so it may be a bit before I can even get to it
 

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I’m willing to help if you need it. I could probably learn a lot. On the other hand it if I remember correctly, you moved down to the Carolinas. Take care of the knee first for sure.
 

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I’m willing to help if you need it. I could probably learn a lot. On the other hand it if I remember correctly, you moved down to the Carolinas. Take care of the knee first for sure.
Thanks bud, and yea I moved down to North Carolina.....ite been crazy hot here so I dont mind not being able to do anything since I cant even drive. but my center console is already apart and what not, so all I have to do is literally just unbolt the center from the floor and disconnect my shift linkage and there it is. wont take long when I am able to do it.
 
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