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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 9-3 105k miles

After driving around for a couple hours the other day, I leave the car for 45 minutes or so. When I come back, the car will crank, but it won't start.
I had to get it towed 50 miles or so back to my house. This morning, I tried to start it..still nothing. When I came back from work this afternoon, it cranked and started fine! Just like new! So I let it run idle for 30 minutes...I then turned it off, and after 5 seconds tried to turn it back on..it started up for 5 seconds or so before stalling. I waited 10 more seconds, tried again, and now it will not start..just crank.

Any ideas? What would cause it to work fine one minute, and then not be able to start a few seconds later.

There are no CEL's, and when the problem initially occured there was a 1/4 tank of gas.

Thanks for any help!
 

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The purpose of the the CEL is to monitor the pollution control devices.IMO, it serves a limited practical purpose...

It is either the DI or the fuel pump system.
Has the filter ever been changed ? ; but I doubt if this is a factor.

Pull the DI, check the plugs, all of this can be done by using the emergency tools..
The pump has two relays, find another one (the same type) and switch...

I believe the Saab 9-3 has too much under-hood heat build up, that the DI should be better cooled..

Also, not sure if I trust the fuel gauge..
Maybe the tow truck man should have added a gallon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked the spark plugs and they seemed fine..I didn't take apart the DI cassette itself..not sure what I would look for.
I added 5 gallons of gas before towing...didn't help unfortunately.
i'll see what i can find regarding the fuel pump...the filter hasn't been changed
 

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Dry plugs = no run, no fuel

Wet plugs = no run, no electric

But I wish it were that easy, as there is also the compression and timing to consider, of course.
And the immobilizer
 

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A quick and easy way to see if it is fuel, is to spray some wd40 or the likes into the air filter and crank it, if it runs breifly directly after this it is fuel starvation. If it still does fire/run then it is likely to be spark/electric.

Wouldnt recommend continued use of this method, and dont use proprietory 'starting aid' sprays (easistart, start pilot) these are way too fierce.
 

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When my fuel pump died, it could be temporarily revived by lifting the rear seat, and banging in the center area with a mallet or hammer, to sort of shock it back into working. If this works to bring it back, the fuel pump is what the problem is. It can be kept running for a good week or two using this method, but it will need to be changed soon to remove any inconvenience.
 

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roadkil34 said:
When my fuel pump died, it could be temporarily revived by lifting the rear seat, and banging in the center area with a mallet or hammer, to sort of shock it back into working. If this works to bring it back, the fuel pump is what the problem is. It can be kept running for a good week or two using this method, but it will need to be changed soon to remove any inconvenience.
That works sometimes...never did work on mine when the fuel pump died, though.

The BEST test to see if your fuel pump is gone is to listen for the pump to prime when you turn the key to the first detent (not all the way to start). Make sure that you have the radio/ACC off beforehand so that you are able to hear it.

If there isn't any priming noise, you know that your issue is either the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump. Best to try the relay first as they are only a few dollars, and if it doesn't help then you have a spare (most of the relays in the car are the same). Be careful though - when I replaced my relay, the car started and ran for a few days, then it died again. Replaced the fuel pump and it's been great since.
 

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my g/f has been having the same symptoms in her '99 9-3 base sedan, 109,000 miles.

the engine died on the road a few weeks ago. driving a steady 50mph, the car died and wouldn't start again. cranked, but never caught.

we towed it to the mechanic, who replaced the fuel pump. car worked fine for 3 days, then the same no-start happened (fortunately, not while driving this time!). the mechanic (a "foreign car specialist"...VWs, porsches, BMW, volvos, etc) has had it for 2 weeks and cannot figure it out and is giving up. He thinks the ECU needs to be replaced...i have my doubts about that.

We're having it towed to the dealership. What really bothers me is that we paid $700+ to replace (what i suspect was) a perfectly good fuel pump.

any ideas? could it be something as simple as a clogged filter? I'll try the WD-40 test and check the plugs.
 

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I have a similar problem and am starting to think it is a problem with the ECU or similar. I first noticed the fuel guage stopped working intermittently a couple of months back, Then I started having random problems starting the engine. No problem with the electrics or spark plugs. Engine fired after spraying quick start in the air filter or being push-started. Sometimes the car starts, other times nothing. Sometimes the problem occurs with a warm engine, sometimes cold.

I read that the fuel guage ender is part of the fule pump so took the car to an independent garage and had the fuel pump swapped with a used unit. Still the guage doesn't work and I've still had problems starting the car. Now facing the prospect of an expensive trip to the dealership.

Also cruise control stopped working. Could this also be related to an ECU problem?

Simon.
 

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These cars,at least the "T5", ('94 to '98?) use a crank position sensor. I do not know what the newer ones use......

If this becomes inoperative(wiring connection is in a severe conditions location), then the fuel pump will not run..
Search "CPS".........
The CPS is located behind the exhaust manifold on the block..
 
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