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Discussion Starter #1
A problem has come up overnight with my 2005 9-3 TiD Vector Sport.

When I used to insert the key, I'd hear a click or two, and some electrical sounds. Now there's no sound when the key is inserted. I can turn it, the engine management lights come on, but the car does not even try to turn over - Dead at the "ON" position. If anyone can tell me exactly what happens when the key is first put in (but not) turned then I'd be keen to know, as this might point to the problem.

The central locking works fine, the battery seems fine, is pretty new and has been charged. The display complains of traction/stability control failure, but has been doing this on and off for a few weeks. The other strange thing is the fuel guage reads zero (got half a tank left).

Any ideas? I've checked the battery, main earths, fuses and relays. Not made it as far as the solenoid/starter yet. I've also not got a spare key.

Thanks!
 

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a problem has come up overnight with my 2005 9-3 tid vector sport.

When i used to insert the key, i'd hear a click or two, and some electrical sounds. Now there's no sound when the key is inserted. I can turn it, the engine management lights come on, but the car does not even try to turn over - dead at the "on" position. If anyone can tell me exactly what happens when the key is first put in (but not) turned then i'd be keen to know, as this might point to the problem.

The central locking works fine, the battery seems fine, is pretty new and has been charged. The display complains of traction/stability control failure, but has been doing this on and off for a few weeks. The other strange thing is the fuel guage reads zero (got half a tank left).

Any ideas? I've checked the battery, main earths, fuses and relays. Not made it as far as the solenoid/starter yet. I've also not got a spare key.

Thanks!
well the good thing is that it seems that your vehicle has accepted the key, in order for the key to turn to the on position the "cim" and steering column lock need to communicate with each other to verify the key has the right code before you can even turn the key........
Knowing this, you can assume the key is okay.
Next what i would try, being that you probably are limited to any tools or testing equipment...i would bypass your starter relay. Leave the key to the "on" position and go to the starter relay. Remove the relay(its one of the yellow relays in the main engine fuse block, check your owners manual for exact relay) temporarly place a jumper wire between the the far left terminal on fuse block and the far rigth terminal on the fuse block (looking at it standing in front of the car). This should turn on your starter and if your vehicle starts then you have a problem with the signal from your ignition switch most likely.
Hope that helps...!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update

Thanks.

I bridged the two terminals, the starter spins away, but the engine does not fire. Shame, as this means it could be something more serious or hard to find.

Any suggestions appreciated!
 

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hmmm.....have you attempted disconnecting the battery power to the vehicle and reconnecting them and then try restating the car?
if that does not work you might need access to a technician with a scan tool perferably an experienced saab tech that will know what they are looking at because saabstend to have a weird terminology of things and systems .
 

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Thanks for the replies.

I followed another tip and bridged the engine management relay (#7, red), and could hear the electronic noises that usually happen when I put in the key.

The car started first time, no warning messages, everything seems OK - Except, of course, I can't go hardwiring the relay every time I want to start it. As soon as I undo the wiring, the car stops.

Any ideas? Broken wire in loom? Dodgy circuitry? Cheers!
 

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Maybe a bit optimstic to wait for a reply from 2011, but if you read this: What did you do to fix this?

I have exactly the same problem:
- No click when key is inserted
- When I turn the key the self-test ends in error messages for Traction etc.
- When I turn to 'Start' absolutely nothing happens (not a click)
- Tech 2 says no contact with ECM
- No voltage at ECM
- Error messages on Tech are:
- AHM/PHM B1000 37 Control Module.
- ESP U2105 00 ECM Missing on Bus

Then I take out Relay7 and replace with jumper wire
- Car starts fine with no error messages
- No 'new' error messages in Tech2
- Voltage on ECM is 12,2V

So it looks like the problem is that the R7 relay is not pulled and therefore not powers the ECM.
Could it be something in ignition lock?

What other tests can I use in Tech2?


Thanks for the replies.

I followed another tip and bridged the engine management relay (#7, red), and could hear the electronic noises that usually happen when I put in the key.

The car started first time, no warning messages, everything seems OK - Except, of course, I can't go hardwiring the relay every time I want to start it. As soon as I undo the wiring, the car stops.

Any ideas? Broken wire in loom? Dodgy circuitry? Cheers!
 

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Maybe a bit optimstic to wait for a reply from 2011, but if you read this: What did you do to fix this?

I have exactly the same problem:
- No click when key is inserted
- When I turn the key the self-test ends in error messages for Traction etc.
- When I turn to 'Start' absolutely nothing happens (not a click)
- Tech 2 says no contact with ECM
- No voltage at ECM
- Error messages on Tech are:
- AHM/PHM B1000 37 Control Module.
- ESP U2105 00 ECM Missing on Bus

Then I take out Relay7 and replace with jumper wire
- Car starts fine with no error messages
- No 'new' error messages in Tech2
- Voltage on ECM is 12,2V

So it looks like the problem is that the R7 relay is not pulled and therefore not powers the ECM.
Could it be something in ignition lock?

What other tests can I use in Tech2?
What is the car in question (model and year)?
 

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Sorry:
Saab 9-3 2007 1,9TiD 120hp 8V. I guess that means EDC16.
The ECU on those is down in front of the wheel well right side (if sitting in car). Bad place to put it. Might want to pull it and check it for corrosion. Check all the wiring to it as well.
 

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Yes - I know. Horrible place. I checked it - the area was a bit soaked so I dried as good as I could. The terminals looks fairly OK inside, but it could of course be a problem inside the wires.
However - when I bypass the ECM Relay - the car starts fine. Can it still be the connection to ECM?

The ECU on those is down in front of the wheel well right side (if sitting in car). Bad place to put it. Might want to pull it and check it for corrosion. Check all the wiring to it as well.
 

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Had a similar situation where the electronics and the self test were ok but the car didn't even tried to start. It was the "brushes" on the starter motor that were very used. Didn't even have the replace the starter motor, only the brushes...
 

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I don' think the starter is the problem. When I bypass the R7 ECM Relay - then it starts fine. It must be more the 'signals' to the R7 relay when I insert the key and switch to ON.
 

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Yes - it is very likely to be the wiring - either the connectors or pehaps one of the units...

Does anyone have the exact details of the wiring to the R7 Relay?
According to the Wis and wiring diagrams it looks like the wiring goes like this:

Batt+ -> Fuse1 -> R7 (pin 86->85) - > EDC16 pin 72. (the circuit to 'pull' the Relay to engage B+ on ECM (PIN7 on EDC16).

I don't quite understand this. I expected the key switch to activate the R7 relay so I expected something like Batt+ ->Fuse1 -> Key ignition - >R7 ->Ground.

So it looks like ECD16 is part of the 'pulling' of R7 relay. Does anyone know the function here? Where is the key ignition connected to this circuit?
So - this could perhaps explain that the ECM seems to be working (when I bypass the R7 - the engine starts) even though one part of the ECM is faulty?
 

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I had the same problem some years ago in my Tid. Emanated itself as traction control error and nothing happening when turning the key. My local Saab indy found a broken wire (and several about to break) in the loom next to the engine and under the battery tray. This could be a good place to start looking.

Good luck
 

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Solved - No click when key is inserted

Saab 9-3 2007 1,9TiD
Have now fixed my problem. It seems that many has similar problems and they are caused by a wiring breakage (or sometimes error in one of the components)
My symptoms were:
- No click when key inserted
- Self-test and lights OK when key switched to ON (but error on traction control etc.)
- Nothing happens when key is switched to START (not a click...)
- Tech 2 says: "No communcation with ECM"
- Tech 2 says *Voltage on ECM (probably means 0 or undefined)
- When I bypass Relay7 (load side - PIN 30 to 87) the car starts fine.
- It looks like the problem is that the Relay7 is not properly pulled (PIN 85-86)
- Voltage from battery and fuse is OK at PIN 85 (or 86 - don't remember).
- Try to measure connectivity from PIN 86 to ECM PIN72 (removed connector to prope PIN72.

I (sadly) had to take the car to a garage (not good for the self-esteem...).

They found a circut break in the area under the fuse-box.
Now car works fine...


Torstein
Saab 9-3 2007 1,9TiD
Saab 900 1998 2.0i convertible
(MG MGA 1956 convertible)
(MG TB 1939)
 

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Saab 9-3 2007 1,9TiD
Have now fixed my problem. It seems that many has similar problems and they are caused by a wiring breakage (or sometimes error in one of the components)
My symptoms were:
- No click when key inserted
- Self-test and lights OK when key switched to ON (but error on traction control etc.)
- Nothing happens when key is switched to START (not a click...)
- Tech 2 says: "No communcation with ECM"
- Tech 2 says *Voltage on ECM (probably means 0 or undefined)
- When I bypass Relay7 (load side - PIN 30 to 87) the car starts fine.
- It looks like the problem is that the Relay7 is not properly pulled (PIN 85-86)
- Voltage from battery and fuse is OK at PIN 85 (or 86 - don't remember).
- Try to measure connectivity from PIN 86 to ECM PIN72 (removed connector to prope PIN72.

I (sadly) had to take the car to a garage (not good for the self-esteem...).

They found a circut break in the area under the fuse-box.
Now car works fine...


Torstein
Saab 9-3 2007 1,9TiD
Saab 900 1998 2.0i convertible
(MG MGA 1956 convertible)
(MG TB 1939)
Hey.

You said they found a breakage under the fuse box. Do you happen to recall more exactly and what color the wire was maybe. I'm stomped and can't find my fault. Please help.
Thanks

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
 
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