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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.
I understand that rack replacement on the 900 and 9-3 requires engine removal. At first peer, all seems quite accessible. What is it that prevents rack removal with engine in place ?

Is it really impossible ?
Car in mind is a 1998 9-3 2.0T

ta
 

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Hi all.
I understand that rack replacement on the 900 and 9-3 requires engine removal. At first peer, all seems quite accessible. What is it that prevents rack removal with engine in place ?

Is it really impossible ?
Car in mind is a 1998 9-3 2.0T

ta

I don't think it is an engine out job.
 

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Search the BB for "steering rack" and look for the post by Earthworm, which should come up pretty close to the top. He got his out through the wheelwell not long ago. I've never heard that the engine has to come out for this job.
 

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Of course with the engine up in the air the job is easy. But I replaced several on 900 and 93s with everything in place. It comes out through the drivers side opening. First remove outer ends out the struts, than remove inner tie rod ends, disconnect the hoses (lift the fure/relay box to get better access from the top), undo bolts holding the rack, remove the bolt (M10) holding the steering column u-joint to the rack, and gently take it out through the opening on the drivers side. I managed to do the last one in 1/2 hours. After disconnecting the rack from the steering column, make sure not to turn the steering wheel (use some duct tape to hold it in place). And you do not need to crawl under the car to swap the rack; just lift it up to remove the front wheels. Easy!
 

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Wow, 1/2 hour, that's got to be a record of some sort. Of course, if you were charging by the hour I suspect that it would take a little longer. Heck, it takes me 1/2 hour just to find my tools... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi

Many thanks for that. I had heard from many sources that the engine had to come out but couldn't work out why.

It does all look like it can come through the drivers side (passenger to us in the UK) hence the question :)

Cheers
 

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Wow, 1/2 hour, that's got to be a record of some sort. Of course, if you were charging by the hour I suspect that it would take a little longer. Heck, it takes me 1/2 hour just to find my tools... Ron
0.5 for this task is a fair set up time; but, as it was the first time for me; it seemed to be 5.0:cheesy: !!! It was actually more than that, only Sears and the tool-mobile guys have the 16 mm 3/8 socket.
I tried mightily to extract the rack thru the left side.....impossible
Thru the right side, its difficult, but one can maneuverer the rack a lot more from this side...
The instructions were not written by the same man who actually did the task!
I'll have to learn how to contribute to Saab-Wiki.What happened to PMI's work is a shame....I wonder what he is doing now, I think he has an Acura....
 

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Of course with the engine up in the air the job is easy. But I replaced several on 900 and 93s with everything in place. It comes out through the drivers side opening. First remove outer ends out the struts, than remove inner tie rod ends, disconnect the hoses (lift the fuse/relay box to get better access from the top), undo bolts holding the rack, remove the bolt (M10) holding the steering column u-joint to the rack, and gently take it out through the opening on the drivers side. I managed to do the last one in 1/2 hours. After disconnecting the rack from the steering column, make sure not to turn the steering wheel (use some duct tape to hold it in place).I used some small bungee cords, the tape does not stick that well, this is a very important step. And you do not need to crawl under the car to swap the rack; just lift it up to remove the front wheels. Easy!
Easy?
That is a good attitude to have.:cheesy: It really helps..
I tried the left side removal, it was impossible.:evil::x
The next day, I tried the right side extraction, with some twisting pivoting, and turning, out she came.
Human childbirth is probably easier!:cheesy::lol::)
The easiest thing was the interior disconnection at the base of the steering coluum...just grasp and pull upward.
The reconnection was extremely difficult..If ever I do this job again, I'd measure the rack input shaft and , if its 0.00001 larger, I'd sand it down to be a perfect 0.00001 smaller.
And, YES! I know that I have a natural ability of making a big deal out of everything.:eek::roll::suprised;.
Another thing, the threaded short rods at the tie rod ends are super tight !! Big Bertha and Little Bertha, my two pipe wrenches, along with Peter the Pipe(16" long) took care of the recalcitrant tie rod ends .
Grease and or Anti-Seize on the threads should make the next man's chore nice and easy.
 

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Guys:

I actually did it in 1/2 hours...with some help from a PhD...and it came through the driver's side (US). The reason why I did it in 1/2 was that a month before the rack was replaced (the old started to leak) and my friend went racing in the woods. As a result, the new rack cracked in two pieces in the middle, therefore, we had to do it again. All bolts and nuts were not a big deal to remove + we knew exactly which tools to use. As to the U-joint: remove the bolt using 13 mm socket on a long extension and brive a small regular screwdriver to open up the joint, it comes out easily once you do it. On assembly, please do not forget to clean all mating parts and grease them a bit - slides back on easily. But again, fix the steering wheel, otherwise you might damage the horn/airbag/radio (93) contact. Good luck!
 
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