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Jvanabara is correct... For some reason I was thinking of a different trans that has the filter behind the valve body. I have slept, and worked on other cars since then... 馃槅
And i grossly overestimated at 95% for 2 drain cycles. Call it "poetic license". What i meant was, "thats good enough".... At least that has been the take of the ole' timers that i have worked with, and i see no reason to disagree...
 

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Makes sense.... On the first 9-3SE I had, I just changed 3l of fluid out at every oil change. No fluid is older than about 25k at that point, and the drain/refill cycle is pretty painless. I've been doing that on the AF40 in the 9-3SC as well, since those transmissions tend to suffer valve body issues when fluid isn't kept fresh. It's easier than 50k full drains for me.
 

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Certainly a partial change is superior to no change. I am fairly certain that foul fluid is the death of the tcc

Personally i will change fluid any and every time i breach a system. The few dollars for new fluid certainly are not worth the hassle of keeping fluid clean through a procedure.

If it comes out of a car, motorcycle, etc... It does not go back in (apocalypse not considered).
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Apocalypse is quite near actually.. Luckily I managed to get one more gallon ATF before everything gets shut down here so I believe I can replace all the fluid in the system by pumping.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Quick update on what I did on the weekend:

Rebuilt the sump with new o-rings at the pickup tube and the oil delivery pipe.

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Added fresh oil, filter, and put the exhaust back on without the subframe so I can easily pump ATF out from the torque converter and cooler.

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Draining setup. The return hose is the one that goes into the valve cover.

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After circulating a gallon fresh ATF through the system the returning oil looks new:

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And the main point of all this hassle: CEL is gone!

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Car`s ready to be smogged. Thanks for all the help, you guys are awesome!

Greg
 

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Good work.

Whatever you do... Clean those banjos before tightening them down and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THEM.

if you strip the hole you will spend over $100 for the heli-coil kit and drill bit because they are uncommon.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Thanks guys, the car is running now, the banjo is flushed and didn`t touch anything anyways as the frame was off. A side note: the thread for the banjos is the same as the engine`s drain plug, so if you have a spare one, you can use it to plug the return hole while flushing the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
The story of getting myself involved in tackling automatic transmissions continues. I`ve been pretty much happy with the car in the past few hundred miles, the car passed smog, so it`s street legal. However, today it produced a bit kind of scary symptom. First it didn`t start, no cranking. After several attempts, it started, but the gear display on the dashboard was not following the gear that was selected. There was reverse but nothing else, I thought the cable broke. It threw a check engine plus gear symbol, it`s a P0705 code. I erased the code, and everything went back to normal. Which is weird, because before that, the car was not able to start in Drive, although it was moving slowly ahead but something was clearly off. But after erasing the code, like I said, everything was ok, as if it was just a software issue.. I was not able to reproduce the issue again. I looked around here and found some threads describing similar issues and looks like I will need to replace/fix my Neutral Safety Switch or Gear Position Sensor. What do you guys think? Am I on the right track or it can be something else as well?

Thanks for any input,

Greg
 

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The Neutral Safety Switch is a misnomer - it really is a Gear Position Sensor, the official name is Range Sensor. All the same device.

Your symptoms are consistent for a bad or misadjusted one. The lever itself selects gears mechanically - you don't need any electronics to do that. There is a sensor attached to the transmission which reports what you've mechanically selected so the TCM can do things like show the select gear on the MIU and operate the shift solenoids, etc. It also works with the starter relay to inhibit the starter when not in P or N.

So, a failure to start and a mis-display of selected gear does suggest the Range Sensor. However, the fact that the symptoms appeared together then disappeared does raise some questions about wiring or the TCM itself.

I would check to be sure the Range Sensor is securely fastened, and I would get a visual on the wire harness coming from it. I would also check to be sure your reverse lights work properly - they too are indicated by the Range Sensor, so if they don't turn on and off appropriately, it's another symptom.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
The lever itself selects gears mechanically - you don't need any electronics to do that.
Yes, that`s why I found odd that everything wenrt back to normal when I erased the code.

Thanks for the suggestion, I`ll look into it on the weekend. I think it`s a coincidence and the two codes are unrelated. Probably the range failure sensor popped up every once in a while, but TCM popped up once and CEL didn`t go out after that. That`s when the sold the car for me...
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Another thing I just noiced is that the winter mode is not working (not that I need winter mode now). If I press the button, nothing happens. Can that be related to any of these above?
 

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I would say a strong maybe. :D

I would look at the wiring diagrams to see how the button position gets to the TCM - is it a simple open/closed or a ground or something else, and are there prerequisites like the transmission must be in a specific gear or something. This would be a good time to have a Tech 2. :D

FWIW, on some 9-3 I had Sport mode didn't work, and it was demonstrably the button that was bad. So, I wouldn't go jumping to conclusions necessarily... you may just have a bad W button.
 
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